Is it one of these? Hard to tell from your blurry photo.
Cheap on eBay.
The fewer corners or points on your socket or wrench the better.
Generally, nothing of substance is found in the screen after the engine is run-in. Caps are made out of crap metal - and deform easily.
I've put a box wrench on them and tapped the wrench with a mallet to break them loose.
OR, drain the oil with the drain plug and leave this thing alone.
I'm with Fish here, the "filter" is mostly for big pieces of metal shavings that are sometimes left inside the engine at the factory. I have never found anything in them, but have seen people in forums find metal pieces on the first time they clean the "filter". I would just let it be, if you have cleaned it before. Now if you want to open it up, you can use an old trick to loosen tighten bolts/nuts. Tap it lightly with a hammer all around to loosen the threads a bit. Then you can put a closed end wrench on it and tap the other end of the wrench with a hammer with light hits to nudge it along.
Have you unscrewed it partially or screwed it back in cross-thread? If it is where it was originally, leave it. I only check mine every 3 oil changes and I haven't found anything at all since the first oil change, where I found some metal shavings. Use good synthetic oil and you shouldn't have to worry about it.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
I think you need to fix it and install a new one and be careful next time.
It's good to open it up every 4-5 oil change, I think.
Once in a while there are fibers there or hair, or pieces of the gasket.
It's a soft aluminum bolt so to take it out safely, a socket needs to be really good fitting and you need to apply the pressure towards the bolt before turning it. Good luck.
1. Get a set of locking vice grips and yank counter clockwise
2. If you mangle it badly, replace it , it’s cheap.
3. Forget about checking it in the future, after the first go around, there’s never much in it. If you are going to check it only use a box wrench on it , something that grabs on all sides.
As a very last resort for removing damaged bolts & studs .... get a cheap box wrench or socket that fits (but doesn’t work because it slips). Clean the head & wrench with gasoline to remove all traces of oil. Get JBWeld epoxy and fuse the cheap wrench / socket to the head and let sit for a day to fully fully cure. Wack the wrench with a hammer to unstick the bolt/ plug/ stud. After the bolt etc is out, wack the wrench / epoxy / bolt until They either come apart or break themselves. Usually you can save the wrench / socket.
springer1 wrote:As a very last resort for removing damaged bolts & studs .... get a cheap box wrench or socket that fits (but doesn’t work because it slips). Clean the head & wrench with gasoline to remove all traces of oil. Get JBWeld epoxy and fuse the cheap wrench / socket to the head and let sit for a day to fully fully cure. Wack the wrench with a hammer to unstick the bolt/ plug/ stud. After the bolt etc is out, wack the wrench / epoxy / bolt until They either come apart or break themselves. Usually you can save the wrench / socket.
Awesome advise.
Only I would use alcohol instead of gasoline (oil) to remove oil