dem0nk1d wrote:The simple fix i came up with is to just remove the plastic vent on the front of the cvt where the variator is. This will improve intake flow, but however i need to know if I can open the rear cvt area of the case. I see the rear of the cvt has a bearing which could possibly be some kind of load bearing for the drive axle, which is on the clutch side of things.
Aren't you concerned about water intrusion? I ride in the rain all the time -- I could certainly see water getting in there easily.
Today when i rode to work it was very wet outside. I had no issues what so ever. Don't forget when it's raining outside and you're driving your car. As soon as the a/c power steering belts warm up it's almost impossible for water to make them slip. It has to be a **** ton of water to have an effect.
Plus it makes access to the CVT simple, which is an A+ in my book.
Two things. Don't remove any plastics to remove he cvt cover. First the cvt cover is ten bolts. You need a deep 8mm socket for All but the top forward most bolt. For that one use a shallow 8mm and rotate from 12 o clock to 3 o clock. To break it loose and spin it out by hand.
Second. I ran my NCY for 1000 miles and lost 5 mph from 77 to 72 for a top speed. You need a reinforced belt for longevity. The stock belt is 1/2 the cost of a reinforced belt. Honestly Mel a NCY variator will let her hi 77mph with no other mods and you will gain mpg because she's not running wot. They are less than $100. The yuminashi is great and all but for your purposes get an NCY and she will be able I hit 75. The yuminashi will let her do 78 or more on a flat. The yuminashi will immediately need a reinforced belt and it won't have the acceleration of the ncy off the line. The yuminashi has great midrange performance.
Yuminashi uses modified factory parts. What is important about that? Honda redesigned the drive face fins to seriously increase cooling ability. The aftermarket variators are using the old cooling fin design that doesn't cool as well. The esp drive faces curve to the right or clockwise as opposed to counter clockwise.
The yuminashi set has great mid and upper range power. However I'm tuning the combo of the yuminashi variator and the NCY drive face. The NCY setup with malossi springs will pull very hard.
Does anyone have a link to the takegawa shocks? I went to the powerbypcx site but didn't see takegawa shocks, just all sorts of other brand names.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
dem0nk1d wrote:The simple fix i came up with is to just remove the plastic vent on the front of the cvt where the variator is. This will improve intake flow, but however i need to know if I can open the rear cvt area of the case. I see the rear of the cvt has a bearing which could possibly be some kind of load bearing for the drive axle, which is on the clutch side of things.
Aren't you concerned about water intrusion? I ride in the rain all the time -- I could certainly see water getting in there easily.
dem0nk1d wrote:The simple fix i came up with is to just remove the plastic vent on the front of the cvt where the variator is. This will improve intake flow, but however i need to know if I can open the rear cvt area of the case. I see the rear of the cvt has a bearing which could possibly be some kind of load bearing for the drive axle, which is on the clutch side of things.
Aren't you concerned about water intrusion? I ride in the rain all the time -- I could certainly see water getting in there easily.
And dust and grit
What on earth were Honda thinking of. Idiots.
the cvt case creates too much heat in my option. also the belt creates enough dust. this method doesn't increase anything, but just reducing heat.
Last edited by dem0nk1d on Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The belt does make a fair bit of dust. That's true...
I've seen people run bikes without a CVT cover because it looks cool, so your shroud removal isn't that extreme. I'll just err on the side of caution and leave mine on.
Currently ride: Nothing right now - mostly mountain biking with my boys until they're old enough to ride Previously rides: 2011 Honda PCX 125, 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (tons of mods - takegawa 170cc big bore kit, gears, etc), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
maddiedog wrote:The belt does make a fair bit of dust. That's true...
I've seen people run bikes without a CVT cover because it looks cool, so your shroud removal isn't that extreme. I'll just err on the side of caution and leave mine on.
Some people run their Ducati cam belts without the covers in a similar way in the belief that it looks cool. As if ducatis aren't unreliable enough
Over here you can get small vents that you drill a few holes in the top of the CVT housing and pop them in to cool it down.
Ok, I need more input between the NCY and the Yuminashi variators before I make the purchase. I will order a reinforced belt with either of them. But I don't want to have to add anything else to make it rideable. This is the first I have heard about the Yuminashi parts and cooling problems. I will be ordering the Takegawa shocks shortly. I set up my account with J-Parts today. Now I just have to wait for the funds. It doesn't look like there will be much of a problem putting them on.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
I ride almost all highway, don't worry about belt cooling. I don't think anyone has had any failures due to heat. The yuminashi will definetly have a higher top end. The NCY will have the coating wear off and you'll need to clean it out with a scotch pad. Both will take you past 75mph. NCY has more acceleration and yuminashi has more speed. Take your pick.
So for an update. I've been riding with 9g weights in the yuminashi variator and my givi short screen back on. I have found that with the kn planning torque driver and it's 10% extension to the gearing I run 8200rpm at a true 75mph. This is just too low. Even with a larger intake, silent sport exhaust and ficon2 I don't have the power to really accelerate. Its warm enough to start playing around again so I'm going to try the stock variator with 12g sliders and see what it does. If that does not suit me I will try the yuminashi variator wih the NCY drive face and see what happens. From there if I'm not happy I will reinstall the stock torque driver and go from there with the next idea.
Mgalutia88 wrote:So for an update. I've been riding with 9g weights in the yuminashi variator and my givi short screen back on. I have found that with the kn planning torque driver and it's 10% extension to the gearing I run 8200rpm at a true 75mph. This is just too low. Even with a larger intake, silent sport exhaust and ficon2 I don't have the power to really accelerate. Its warm enough to start playing around again so I'm going to try the stock variator with 12g sliders and see what it does. If that does not suit me I will try the yuminashi variator wih the NCY drive face and see what happens. From there if I'm not happy I will reinstall the stock torque driver and go from there with the next idea.
got my vario yesterday... have you tried the sliders in the yumi yet?
Well I went as far as putting the shocks in the cart at J-Parts. Then the shipping costs came up. They wanted $84.44 for the shocks, and $60 for shipping! Damn, I could pay someone to pick them up while visiting Japan for less than that. I guess I will be either looking elsewhere or not getting them.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Would one of our members living in Thailand please check the following site to see if there is a way these Takegawa lowering shocks, part number 06-04-0034 can be shipped to the United States, please? No one seems to ship these to us except that website mentioned previously, which has a rip off shipping price of $60 for a pair of shocks. The website is www.bcmotors.co.the/products--236840-1.HTML
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
That is suppose to be bcmotors.co.th/
Just look for the part number once you are there. The one ending in 0032 is chrome. I am interested in the red one. It ends in 0034.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Mel, remember that the price of shipping from France for a variator is 30 euros or $41.38 and from RZ Racing in the Netherlands is 31.50 euros. A variator is almost weightless. Your talking about a pair of coil over shocks that probably weigh 10lbs. Even the ebay motorcycle shocks that would work for us are $10 to ship at snails pace. You are paying for air freight from Asia or Europe for almost anything aftermarket for our bikes. No one ships surface mail because that mail system from their countries to ours would take TWO TO THREE MONTHS!!! Besides, a pair of YSS G series shocks is about $280-300 shipped gere as opposed to half that cost for the takegawa shocks. Shipping is just a cost of playing the game with our bikes. Almost everything else is dirt cheap. I do understand its a lot for shipping and 75% of the product cost on top of the product. At the same time look how affordable the product is and think how much it would cost us here
Dasshreddar, no I have not installed my sliders. The bike has been at the dealer since tuesday now and there is no ideas yet. The factory technician that the dealer mechanics call is stumped also so they have been brainstorming.