Trouble removing crankcase cover

[EddieC]

Wanted to inspect my belt, because it sounds like there is some sand inside the crankcase when I turn the rear wheel. I removed all required bolts (I have a service manual so I am sure I got them all) and could not get the thing off! I know that there is a huge gasket sealing this cover, so i'm thinking it must have sealant on the gasket holding the cover in place. So I have a few questions.

1. How can I free the cover from the crankcase assembly? Rubber mallet? (will need to invest in one)

2. Do you REALLY have to replace the gasket each time? for a belt inspection being every 5000 miles that seems like I'll be buying a lot of gaskets. I realize that if its glued in there its likely to tear, and will need replacement, but has anyone actually done this who can tell me what to expect?

3. Cluch shoes... the same as variator weights? Honda says inspect every 5000 miles... seems pretty involved to do. Is this really necessary?

[trigg123]

hi mate
it should come off ok,get your fingers in the hole at the back underneath and give it some....... if i remember there is a couple of metal locators as well if its never been off then it will need some force to remove,once off just clean the gasket face off and refit, you'll have to remove the clutch drum to inspect the shoes,you'll need a tool to do this the same tool will hold the variator as well. which while you got the casing off it wont hurt to clean the rollers and their beds out to.
good luck....
ps ,the clutch on my dylan was shot after 5k,so worth a look

[EddieC]

Thanks very much for the reply.

Could you explain the metal locators? do they help hold the cover on? I have a rubber pipe wrench I was planning on using to hold the variator in place. Its a rubber strap that tightens with torque... If I need the special tool(s) for the next step too I'll just go buy one... still cheaper than paying my dealership!

Sorry for all the newb questions. This is my first CVT.. and its a little confusing for the unfamiliar. The special tool you are referring to is the flywheel holder correct? Looks like I'd need a clutch spring compressor too.. Looks like I have some reading to do. I also have the option of meeting with a mechanic friend of mine who could show me the first time around, but he's 40 miles away so I'm trying to have more faith in myself.

[Esdain]

i had no trout;e removing mine, it was in the summer and i can't really remember any problems, just slid straight offf, hmmm. might be worth just double checking you have all the bolts, i remember there being a pig of one to get out without removing the side fairings, it can be done tho

[Cookie]

You shouldn't have major problems removing the belt cover but they can be a bit tight.
I found it a lot easier to remove the left hand lower coloured plastic (the bit under the footboard). Also don't forget to remove the black plastic air intake at the front of the belt cover (three 8mm bolts then it pulls straight off).
The aluminium belt cover is located with a couple of dowels that two of the bolts go through. These mean that,once you've removed all the bolts, the cover needs to be pulled straight off without twisting. There is a bearing inside the cover which goes over the clutch spindle so this also means that the cover has to be pulled straight off.

Double check that you've got all the bolts out (including the deeply recessed one in the middle) and keep them in order as they are different lengths.
The gasket can cause it to stick the first time. A few whacks with a bit of wood will usually jar it free (or a thump with your fist).
Hopefully the gasket should stick either to the cover or the engine so it can be left in place and reused. A friends one stuck half to the cover and half to the engine though so be careful as this means it has to be gently peeled off of one or the other to avoid tearing it.

Blow all the dust out of the belt area and the clutch. Also clean any dead flies etc out of the plastic air intake that you removed.
Don't bother removing the round clutch bell cover. The shoes should last quite a high mileage but do blow the dust out through the ventilation holes (if you don't have an air line use a tyre pump or something). Check the belt for obvious damage (fraying or cracking) although it should be fine.

I recently checked mine at 10,000 miles and it's all good. I won't bother checking the rollers until belt change time at 15,000 miles as it all seems to be working fine and the variator will have to be taken apart to fit the new belt anyway.

When you put the cover back on line up the dowels and make sure it is all square then wiggle/thump it on. It's one of those jobs where, once you've done it once, it seems easy.

Good luck.

[maddiedog]

Good info, Cookie.

I haven't checked mine yet. On my Reflex, the general consensus on the message board was just check it all out when you replace the belt at 12k miles. The PCX recommends belt change at 15k miles, so I'll just leave it all alone until I hit 15k miles.

Instead of buying a rubber mallet, you can mcgyver it off by wrapping a couple of rags around a piece of metal or wood and using that to bonk it loose. The wood or metal will provide the heft, and the rags will soften and prevent scratches in the paint...

[EddieC]

thank you very much guys! I did make sure to get all the bolts ( i think 9 in total) including that deep recessed one. BTW. That specific bolt was such a PITA to get out, I even stripped a socket on it. Luckily I had a back up. Wish I would have been able to use my wrench instead =]

Thank you very much cookie. It sounds like I was right there, but I didn't wanna force anything. I had the lower plastic off and that black front cover. In fact, I was doing my valve adjustment, and it was when I was turning the drive shaft I heard the sandy noise so I wanted to check for a frayed belt. hopefully I can save the gasket. I'll probably just have to clean out the case and call it done. I have compressed air in a can I can use. Right now I have just over 6000 miles, so Im not expecting to find anything big, but it seemed to me that things could be turning more smoothly back there and the only way to be sure is to take a look!

Good to know about the rule of thumb with the clutch shoes. I figured every 5000 miles seemed a little much at least in the beginning. I'll also have to teach myself how to take that all apart, but im sure with time, and the internet, I'll be able to learn. I've done wet sump clutches, and this is just different =] I'm sure I'll be bugging you guys again come 15000 miles

Also, thanks for the tip on a mallet dave. I was kicking it with my leather covered steel toe boot, as that usually seems to do the trick... I'll give your method a try!

[trigg123]

Ed,
im my experiance the strap type holder didnt work,your better of getting the right tool....or even make one with some flat bar ...can post pics or send me an email address if you want pics its just much easier with this tool to hold the variator or clutch to release the nut. also wouldnt bother with the spring tool,you can compress that yourself while resting it on the floor/bench
have fun....

[gn2]

No need to buy drive belt cover gaskets while Kelloggs are still selling cornflakes in big cardboard boxes...

[maddiedog]

No need to buy drive belt cover gaskets while Kelloggs are still selling cornflakes in big cardboard boxes...

Are you suggesting using cardboard as a gasket?

[Cookie]

I've used cardboard to make gaskets loads of times and it's been fine. It was always the traditional way of doing things.
When I started riding bikes if you bought a gasket people thought you must be rich!
Thick brown paper can be good too for thin gaskets. It's not like the belt cover gasket does anything much - just keeps dust out really.

Cookie

[EddieC]

haha! good to know I have that as an option! And yes, the case isn't sealing anything liquid... so I dont see how that would be a real problem

[gn2]

Are you suggesting using cardboard as a gasket?

For this application, yes.

Cylinder head or exhaust manifold gasket... absolutely not.

It's not like the belt cover gasket does anything much - just keeps dust out really.

I think it just needs to be airtight so that there are no air leaks in the final drive aircooling system.

[woozy-uk]

i replaced my cover from the one that was on ebay so no more hole on my belt cover it was very easy to swap over i thought