Motor oil specification?

[easyrider]

Is it really necessary to use Jaso MB spec in the engine?. I am thinking that Mobil 1 or any SJ + good synthetic 10w -30 engine oil would be OK. Since there is no wet clutch in the engine.Thanks.

[j.d.b.]

Regular Mobil one 10w30 here. In fact it's in every motor I have since the '80s.

[Eiron]

Since motorcycle oils aren't tested as rigorously as automotive engine oils, you're actually better off using something like Mobil 1 automotive oil.

Because our engines run at higher RPMs than most car/truck engines, I'd recommend something relatively shear resistant & with a better-than-average additive package. That's typically going to be an xW-40 syn, or a "High Mileage" syn.

[iceman]

You should use a good brand name 4-stroke fully-synth bike oil and not a car oil. It will work but motorcycle oils meet a specification, just like car oils - nonsense to say otherwise. As has been stated so many times, the PCX is a little scoot, just use any good 4-stroke fully synth bike oil and you will be fine and your PCX will serve you well.

[waspmike]

You should use a good brand name 4-stroke fully-synth bike oil and not a car oil. It will work but motorcycle oils meet a specification, just like car oils - nonsense to say otherwise.

Oils for motorcycles have to put up with the shear stresses in the transmission. PCX or any CVT scooter, like a car, doesn't have to do this, except the old Mini of course! If one is concerned about high revs consider the Honda S2000 it's rev limit was 9000. Not far off a PCX.

Whatever grade it says in the book, synthetic is better but it must be fully synthetic like Mobil 1. Semi synthetic is a waste of money. If doing the change yourself you could use Honda oil for scooters or Castrol Activ and change more often. Getting it done for you specify fully synthetic then you can prolong the period a bit.

MB rated oils have friction modifiers in that reduce friction. MA oils do not have these.

[iceman]

In the end I went with castrol power 1 racing 4t 10w-30 - Honda approved and they use it in their high-spec bikes and it's fine for the little 'ol PCX too.

[Alibally]

That's what I use. I've had no problems.

[pcx150man]

You should use a good brand name 4-stroke fully-synth bike oil and not a car oil. It will work but motorcycle oils meet a specification, just like car oils - nonsense to say otherwise. As has been stated so many times, the PCX is a little scoot, just use any good 4-stroke fully synth bike oil and you will be fine and your PCX will serve you well.

I get that on the face of it, it seems to make sense to use fully synth....but I just wonder why the Honda boffin's do not suggest using it?

If the motor is going to wear better using it, surely?


Also;-

They do make a fully synth 10 30 fully synth gear oil and I am thinking of using that...maybe if for no other reason, I may be able to at least compare the gearbox audibility,a little quieter perhaps?....any thoughts on this,,,or am I indeed just splitting hairs.


I have been using semi synth motor oil and semi synth gear oil

[iceman]

To be honest, I think fully synth is a bit over-rated - it's normally just more uniform size molecules and lasts longer, but I doubt any bike would fair worse using semi-synth over a lifetime than one running fully synth. There are some people with motorbikes and scooters where I work that just use the same oil they put in their cars - I've not seen them have any issues the past 3 years they've used them. But, as fully synth 4T costs about £7/litre, I will use that.

[Eiron]

So here's a link to what appears to be a "convenient location" for oil specifications (that is, not an actual sanctioning organization, but just someone (or group of someones) who wanted to put everything in one place)
JASO MA and JASO MB classifications

Key to note here is the statement that any motorcycle oil must first meet any automotive engine oil spec -- even ones that are seriously out-of-date & no longer allowed by the American Petroleum Institute (API) !!!

The only difference between the MA/MB ratings is that all three of the MA ratings have clutch friction limitations added to the automotive oil specs, while the one MB rating doesn't (it meets "regular" friction-modified automotive oil specs). So, since we don't need the wet-clutch limitations, why spend extra on any MA/MA1/MA2 oil? Oh, & I couldn't find any 4T oils that listed ACEA specs, which detail viscosity retention & additive chemistry, so there's no way for me to know these important parameters.

Of course, the other side of the question is, "Does it matter?" And the answer is, "Probably not." Do what the manufacturer recommends & you'll get the life the manufacturer expects you to get. Most people will get rid of their scoot & move on to something else before anything bad happens anyway.

For me, I want better protection for less money, while creating less waste, & spending less time maintaining it. But that's the monkey on my back. So I'll buy a "real" (Group IV) synthetic oil with defined viscosity retention parameters & additive chemistry.

We each need to do what we're comfortable with. If you're comfortable spending 2X to 3X as much on an under-defined oil, then I'm okay with that! I just can't do that on my own equipment.

[waspmike]

There are two good places to look. Which should answer most questions.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

OR Bobstheoilguy

But, as fully synth 4T costs about £7/litre, I will use that.

Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 (blue container, not white), $13 / gallon at Wal-Mart. In most markets outside US, it is called Rimula Ultra.

To be honest, I think fully synth is a bit over-rated - it's normally just more uniform size molecules and lasts longer, but I doubt any bike would fair worse using semi-synth over a lifetime than one running fully synth.

"Semi-synthetics" are oils which are a blend of petroleum oil and no more than 30% synthetic oil. If the manufacturer adds no more than 30% synthetic oil and does not change the additive package, they do not have to recertify the oil. These days, since everyone has agreed that Group III base oils are "synthetic," I'm not sure "semi-synthetic" means anything at all. The manufacturers love this stuff: it costs about 15% more to make the oil, and they get to charge about double. I don't recommend semi-synthetics. Save your money and take your kids to McDonalds.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Me? Oil is Oil. I walk to Honda and buy Honda MB oil for scooters. For car tell the mechanic to use PTT Super Performa.

[waspmike]

I'm going with Exhaust protection. Even the 125 has something