The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hey,

Only had this Bike just under a week now,
just wondering whether these Brake Pads are ok or need replacing?

I know on my previous Bikes there's been a little more meat on them,
looking on these they look abit thin to me,
but im not sure what they're like originally.

Shall I replace them now? or wait a few more miles, or......?
(and if so, can you suggest a decent pair for a decent price)

You should be able to go down to 1/2 of that material thickness, as long as you don't go down to the metal backing plates.

Why are you wanting to replace these pads so soon?

They look ok for a while yet. It doesn't do any harm to strip and clean them occasionally to stop them seizing.

Thanks,
I dont want to replace yet,
but they look a similar size to ones I had to replace on my last Bike,
so thought i'd ask :-)

(plus got to replace the rear Tyre, just waiting for it to be delivered)

They appear less than half worn to me. You have a lot of miles left.

If you have a pcx, the rear does not use disc brakes, so when you change your rear tire you can pull the drum and check the pads for wear also if you want to.

Thanks Mel46, will take a look at the Drum when the Wheels off :-)

Mel46 wrote:If you have a pcx, the rear does not use disc brakes, so when you change your rear tire you can pull the drum and check the pads for wear also if you want to.

Shoes

Can't you change the brake shoes without removing the wheel.

outlander wrote:Can't you change the brake shoes without removing the wheel.

No, the wheel needs to come off.


Sent from my iPad

outlander wrote:Can't you change the brake shoes without removing the wheel.

The shoes on the rear are inside a drum. The only way to get at them is by removing the rear wheel. This has been true for all drum brakes I've seen on motorcycles/scooters. It's the nature of the way they are constructed.

The front brake caliper can be removed and the pads inspected or replaced without removing the front wheel. Be careful not to depress either brake lever while the caliper is off the scoot, if you do, you'll find out why this is a bad idea.

honkerman wrote:

outlander wrote:Can't you change the brake shoes without removing the wheel.

The shoes on the rear are inside a drum. The only way to get at them is by removing the rear wheel. This has been true for all drum brakes I've seen on motorcycles/scooters. It's the nature of the way they are constructed.

Come on GN2. bonus points on offer here....

What prize does the points make...?

Surely you can just use a g clamp and xompress the puston on the caliper.

How difficult and time consuming is it to remove the rear wheel. I can do it on a buell ulysses, never done it on a scooter before.

Its not difficult but is a bit more complex than most bike wheels.

You need to take the exhaust off then lock the back brake on (I use a double sided velcro strap on the lever) undo the axle nut, then let the brake off, then remove the A-bracket then the wheel slips off.

Unless it has seized on the splines....

On the subject of pads - best go with Honda originals or are there nicer alternatives that are a 1-for-1 replacement?
Just found out at slow speed when applying the front brake to come to rest I hear what seems to be something rubbing or catching - may be once per rev of the wheel but could not see anything off the bike and hard to tell what's going on when riding.

I try and engine brake as much as possilble and start with the rear before using the front brake, but now my journey involves 40+ mph much of the time, sharper bends and more ramps/hills so need good brakes.

It rides ok but now has the clutch bearing issue and now this brake efficiency not like it was was when new - not surprising as done near 13k miles and not changed the fluid or pads - but it recently passed it's MOT.

gn2 wrote:Its not difficult but is a bit more complex than most bike wheels.

You need to take the exhaust off then lock the back brake on (I use a double sided velcro strap on the lever) undo the axle nut, then let the brake off, then remove the A-bracket then the wheel slips off.

Unless it has seized on the splines....

I used a tied rag instead of a Velcro strap. Same effect.

I also backed off the brake adjustment completely before removing the wheel.

There are wear indicators for both front and rear brakes; the front ones have a line drawn on the pad, and the rear ones have a mark on the actuating lever at the rear (check it with the brake engaged). Both are mentioned in the user manual.

My bike is at 32,200km and still on original pads with plenty of wear to go.

Still okay, but maybe a bit of cleaning will do.

Whilst on the topic ... when my lever wasn't as smooth as it should have been the dealer released something by hand down at the front brake which allowed the caliper to be opened right up - which back-flushed the fluid back into the reservoir. What the heck did he release down at the brake to do that - I've never been able to figure it out!