The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

So I woke up this morning in a bad mood because of some personal issues that I've been dealing with, so I thought changing the oil might help me relax. It was actually long overdue So I go to do it, all while ruminating over my issues, and when I was cranking what I thought was counterclockwise, it was only counterclockwise from my view! Turns out, I was going clockwise! I stripped it, and broke a piece of the housing off of the oil bolt housing.

So, my day has gotten worse

I sent it to a shop, but they could only receive it, and couldn't tell me anything about it.

So..... how screwed am I?

R crankcase is priced at @$75 if it cannot be repaired.
Friend of mine used a cheap torque wrench to snug the 2 exhaust nuts to the head - heard no 'click' so started stripping the studs out!
Stuff happens.....especially when we're a bit preoccupied.

Fish

I stripped it, and broke a piece of the housing off of the oil bolt housing.

How large is the piece that was broken off, is the threaded hole just stripped, or is part of it actually broken off? If it can be tapped & a larger plug / bolt can be secured to seal it, then you can leave it as is and simply do future oil changes by siphoning thru the fill tube like ‘youyou’ does.

springer1 wrote:

I stripped it, and broke a piece of the housing off of the oil bolt housing.

How large is the piece that was broken off, is the threaded hole just stripped, or is part of it actually broken off? If it can be tapped & a larger plug / bolt can be secured to seal it, then you can leave it as is and simply do future oil changes by siphoning thru the fill tube like ‘youyou’ does.

Or the filter housing.

Any decent shop should be able to helicoil it.

We’ve all done something like this at some point. If you haven’t yet, you will.

Good luck

fish wrote:R crankcase is priced at @$75 if it cannot be repaired.
Friend of mine used a cheap torque wrench to snug the 2 exhaust nuts to the head - heard no 'click' so started stripping the studs out!
Stuff happens.....especially when we're a bit preoccupied.

Fish

Good to hear, I thought I was gonna have to buy a new engine!

springer1 wrote:

I stripped it, and broke a piece of the housing off of the oil bolt housing.

How large is the piece that was broken off, is the threaded hole just stripped, or is part of it actually broken off? If it can be tapped & a larger plug / bolt can be secured to seal it, then you can leave it as is and simply do future oil changes by siphoning thru the fill tube like ‘youyou’ does.

About a quarter inch piece fell off. I literally turned it until it was easy to turn

I tried tightening it just to see if it would close but it just stayed loose.

Good to know I have some other options. Thanks

Picture?? sounds fixable !

you you wrote:

springer1 wrote:

I stripped it, and broke a piece of the housing off of the oil bolt housing.

How large is the piece that was broken off, is the threaded hole just stripped, or is part of it actually broken off? If it can be tapped & a larger plug / bolt can be secured to seal it, then you can leave it as is and simply do future oil changes by siphoning thru the fill tube like ‘youyou’ does.

Or the filter housing.

Any decent shop should be able to helicoil it.

We’ve all done something like this at some point. If you haven’t yet, you will.

Good luck

Thanks I'll update tomorrow morning when I talk to the mechanic. I'll mention these words I don't understand to them...crankcase, tapped and plugged, helicoil... lol i'll go with the longest term solution. I started literally thinking of all the good times I had after I sent it off to the shop and have been so bummed wondering if I'm gonna have to get a new engine. Y'all are definitely making me feel better lol

easyrider wrote:Picture?? sounds fixable !

No pics, just sent it away. no confidence to do anything on my own anymore. Sheesh! I'm surprised I was able to install some YSS shocks on my own last summer

This is why, except for one or two bolts, I use a 1/4” ratchet with sockets on my bikes. The torque you can get out of a 1/4 “ is more than enough for virtually every application, except major tear down. The 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets can get you in trouble.....don’t ask me how I know…

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8 ... UTF8&psc=1

Don’t lose too much sleep over this. It’s happened to many. It’s not the end of the world, seriously. It sounds fixable.

Did it meself draining the gear oil from the bevel drive on my R75/5 many, many years ago. I still remember the feeling of that bolt suddenly spinning free. As I recall, they helicoiled it. I was tired, irritated and should not have been near a wrench
...
Be of good cheer...it's fixable.

As we used to say-bummer!
as everyone notes this stuff can be fixed
Too many doh moments in my life to count

Thanks for all the kind words lol! I just graduated with a degree in biology, so I've been patting myself on the back for being smarter than I thought, and then this happens! I've never before felt so stupid than this morning! Nice to hear it's happened to so many other people, and was just mistake due being somewhere else than the present. Thanks again, I'll update when I figure out what the damage is

Ah geez, I guess my day will come
I'll react the same (I suppose)...perhaps with a bit more drama

Rest up now and git yer mind off yer troubles. The one before and aft. Everything will screw itself together one way or another. As it should be.
Peace n Smile

Oh and please keep us posted (pics appreciated too)
See my 1st sentence above

The oil drain bolt is tricky. I am always afraid when I change the oil because I know this can happen. It has happened to others, so it could happen to me. They didn't even make the head of that bolt distinct enough that the socket grabs it securely.

So, this is how I can tell if I am going the correct direction when tightening and loosening bolts:

1. I attach the correct socket that I plan on using.
2. I hold the socket loosely between my fingers while cranking on the ratchet.
"Righty tighty, Lefty loosey"... ratchet handle turns clockwise, tighten, ratchet handle turns counterclockwise, loosen.
(You can't tell once you put it on the bolt.)
3. Attach the unit to the bolt in question to see if I need an extension. If so, add one and do steps 1 & 2 over again, to be certain I still have it correct.
4. Put my palm on head of ratchet as I turn it to make sure it is secure on the bolt.
5. Pray like h@ll that everything goes as planned.

Sorry to hear about your dilemma . . ..

Great words from Mel. Yes, that "Righty Tighty" "Lefty Losey" thing upside down is a mind bender but very important.

However, I think Fish may be right about the fix. Replace the part and refill with oil. Clean the oil screen too under that left side cover. Careful with that one . . . it's awkward.

That said it could be worse. Was there a vibration?



Please forgive me . . . just trying to cast some light on the darkness.

It reminds me of the time I set my chain too tight on my KLR 650 and stripped the sprocket on the counter-shaft. I did a lot of two up riding with it back then so as the suspension took more load the distance to the rear wheel would increase . . . thus causing the chain to tighten. Stupid me.

But I wasn't the only one evidently. Subsequently Kawasaki beefed up the splines on the that shaft to make it more rugged.

So, the place I took it to said that the chunk that came off on the crankcase was too big for a helicoil, and that he'd have to rebuild it. He said the right crankcase would cost 89 dollars, but that labor would cost 1200. Looks like I'm pretty screwed. I asked him if there was a chance that they could seal it up and I could just siphon out the oil whenever I wanted to change it, and he said that they can't do that kind of work because they couldn't guarantee that it wouldn't leak oil eventually. I don't think that I have the capability to rebuild the crankcase myself, or seal up the bottom myself either, and I don't have that kind of money so my beloved Honda PCX might be done for.

One option could be a replacement engine from a breaker if you have such a thing. Or eBay.
Labour would be much less for an engine swap.

I would put it back together with the broken piece of the housing. I use liquid steel epoxy and glue it together. That epoxy is good stuff. I bet it would hold with no leaks. As far as draining the oil to change it you can drain all of it from opening for the oil screen bolt. I buy the epoxy from auto zone but Walmart has it also here in Ohio. Good luck.