The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Oil change time.

Generally I'm religious about looking for torque values. But in the past year, I've had five bikes: V-Strom 650, Silver Wing GL500, Versys 650, and now, my new toy, a PC800.

In addition to my PCX125 and the new-to-me 150.

I'd only changed the 125's oil once; and I'd forgotten the torque specs. Didn't write them down.

EVERY other bike calls for 22 to 24 ft-lbs torque on the drain plug. Frankly, on most of them, it didn't seem like enough.

So...I drained the oil on the PCX...IMHO, it needed it, bad. It had been overfilled when I got it, and probably by the dealer. Someone marked OK 8-17 in white marker on the filter cap...I'm thinking it was the same Honda stealership that sold it, and that didn't grease my GL500's driveline. That 36-year-old bike's Zerk fitting was so dry, another mechanic put a whole cartridge of grease in there. BASTAGES.

So, they just filled it to the top, like ijits. I drained it off, as much as I could pump out, not wanting to get into it right off; and then put about a half-quart of good-ish oil (opened bottle of dino oil, never used, but about four years old) in there.

Now it was time to get things right.

Filter was spotless...grand. But...putting the plug back in, I just left Mister Torque on 22 ft-pounds. They all take that....right?

Long before the handle clicked, it sure felt...yup.

Nope, I didn't roll it through. I backed off, screwed it halfway out, and then back in again. Set the torque bar to 15 ft-pounds.

I still didn't like the feel of it.

But, it is what it is. I put the oil in, and buttoned everything up. And got into my obscure screen-shots...where I found long ago I had found the torque was 18 pounds.

Yup. I did it an injury; no telling how much or how bad.

What are the odds I won't have to get it re-drilled? Are there solutions easier than removing the engine, which will probably cost more than the machine is worth?

Can the crankcase oil be renewed indefinitely out the filter socket, if it comes to that?

Is it leaking then? I have a torque wrench, a fairly expensive one as many are so far out you may as well not bother (my calibration sticker shows almost spot on throughout it's length) and I have never used it!
I've changed the oil three times now (the last a few months back as done over 15,000 miles now) and just tighten it until I think it's tight enough with no leaks showing. Still using the same crush washer too.
Mostly you can judge things good enough to how tight they were, how tight you do them up and what feels right - even the garage never used a torque wrench when they reiftted the rear wheel and exhaust. Been fine for six months now.

iceman wrote:Is it leaking then? I have a torque wrench, a fairly expensive one as many are so far out you may as well not bother (my calibration sticker shows almost spot on throughout it's length) and I have never used it!
I've changed the oil three times now (the last a few months back as done over 15,000 miles now) and just tighten it until I think it's tight enough with no leaks showing. Still using the same crush washer too.
Mostly you can judge things good enough to how tight they were, how tight you do them up and what feels right - even the garage never used a torque wrench when they reiftted the rear wheel and exhaust. Been fine for six months now.

That's the difference between a good mechanic...and me. I don't have that sort of feel.

I trust this torque wrench; I've had it some years, it's been cared for, and it's never let me down. I always set the torque a few pounds lower than what the book calls for; and I've never had a problem.

I felt this thing start to go...I've stripped aluminum threads before; it happens before you know it, and I, at least, don't feel it until they're starting to let go.

I only rode the thing two miles after the oil change - my shop is a storage unit, and that's the distance home. I don't think it's going to leak. My concern is the health of the threads - after all, there's probably going to be many more oil changes.

If you are worried just drain it next time with an oil pump or the filter housing.

Tightening a damn oil drain plug is not rocket science.No torque wrench,just snug it up,dont bear down on it.It will not leak.Like the man says...use a suction pump and suck it out if it worry's you.

Yes, I wouldn't touch that drain plug again.
Very few of us have a perfect torque wrench. ..
and even fewer of us have it regularly calibrated.
So, save that wrench for big fasteners....and use new crush washers always, never a torque wrench, and tighten those small nuts/bolts just snug with a small wrench.

Drain plugs, spark plugs, exhaust studs are too easily stripped on scooters!
Fish

you you wrote:If you are worried just drain it next time with an oil pump or the filter housing.

+1, just siphon it out if you're concerned about the drain plug.

I have been lucky throughout my life. I can just about feel when it is tight enough.

I was in the military for a long time and we used torque wrenches alot, but I got to a point where I could just feel when it was tight enough. Then I would get the torque wrench out and within a quarter of a turn it would click. Don't know if I could still do that but I stop when it feels right. When you start to worry that it may be too tight, time to stop and check it.

I did back it out about three turns, and then set it in with the torque wrench set to 15 ft-lb. It did go in and did hold.

I didn't think to take it all the way out. I did note it wasn't fighting my fingers screwing out or back in.

Well, it'll hold until the next oil change, anyway. Then I'll have to get into whether they can put a Heli-Coil in there without disassembling the engine, or the bike, at shop rates. My guess is, they can't; which means I have a choice of ripping into it myself (Danger, Will Robinson!) or selling the damaged machine, probably for scrap price.

The right crankcase alone is about $100.

Bike Bandit has the PCX 125 parts listings for the 2011.

I second the oil extractor idea. It actually seems like a neater solution anyway, and 38 clams is not too much money.

https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton- ... B009POZ9YY

Leave the bolt alone and just keep swimming.

Set about the business of finding the right size heli coil. Call these people as they have several sizes but it would be a big one. Let us know for the archives if you find the kit because you are not the first to strip the oil drain. 800-645-7270

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/56353238

Or you could try this. I've seen it work very well. Doesn't really matter what the finished size is-SAE or metric.

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garag ... 751709_0_0

And these are available in quite a few sizes.
Go a full size up and install it straight.
My friend puts some grease inside the drain hole and on the plug
and then wipes it out with a small angled pick after.

https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-65217-Auto ... B000COCX0E

NADman wrote:And these are available in quite a few sizes.
Go a full size up and install it straight.
My friend puts some grease inside the drain hole and on the plug
and then wipes it out with a small angled pick after.

https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-65217-Auto ... B000COCX0E

Excellent. Never come across one of those before.