Replacing ignition switch 2019?

[sammym]

My PCX was stolen. But the Police managed to get it back. Unfortunately, the ignition has been drilled out. Meaning that you can now start and turn off the scooter using a screwdriver rather than a key!

I have looked into the part and it's not too expensive. So I'd like to change the ignition switch itself. Which will come with two new keys.

Can anyone give me any idea of what is involved and any tips? A brief overview of what will need to come off would be useful. It's a 2019 125 PCX.

[Conelite]

Seems pretty straight forward. You would need the #10 SWITCH ASSY., COMBINATION & LOCK

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[Yorkie150]

is the bike insured fully comp ? if so - why not get it into a dealer for a replacement and insurance claim ?? just a suggestion.

[sammym]

is the bike insured fully comp ? if so - why not get it into a dealer for a replacement and insurance claim ?? just a suggestion.

Because I have 3 cars and 2 bikes. And I've already had one PCX stolen. So another theft claim is not what I want.

Plus my insurance excess it twice the cost of the part. So I will save money by doing it myself. Also with the lockdown I have the time to do it myself. Golf course is even closed in wales so I have no very little to do.

[Yorkie150]

ok, best of luck with the repairs and hope the thief is traced - eventually

[sammym]

I didn't want to leave this in the air in case anyone finds this via google.

I have not actually finished the job. But I have stripped it all down and taken off the original ignition switch. The job is not that hard - but it's a pain. If you have never taken off the fairings before it's a pain. Some of them are stiff and I only have a Haynes Manual - so had to be very careful. Haynes is generally okay - but it's a bit dishonest in places.

The actual hardest part for me was removing the base plate for my top box. Totally corroded bolts. Fortunately, I have a 3/8 impact gun and used a hammer to smash on a larger hex bit. Getting the ignition switch off is a bit like playing twister in that you need to rotate the handlebars around to get to the bolts - each one requires you to move it in another position.

Finally - the cable for the seat release and the fuel cap is less than easy imo. In the end I just unscrewed it from underneath the fuel cap after disengaging it from the switch to get access. I am quite sure there is an easier way to do this.

If you want to take the job on it only needs basic hand tools. But I'd highly recommend plastic pry tools. I took massive use of my magnetic pick up tools as well.

If you are used to working on cars or more complicated machinery you may overthink the electrical connectors to the 12v socket and the rear lights. I assumed they would require picks or applying pressure in a certain way. In reality, they are held on only with friction and just require a stiff tug to get them off.

I now need to decide if I CBA to do the valve clearances as the fairing is pretty much all off. I am waiting for the switch which will come next week. From a dealer for a new one with two keys in total it was just over £100. Given you get two new keys for that I don't think it's too bad.

If anyone wants any pics please let me know. I am looking forward to the summer and having my little scooter back on the road!

[iceman]

Good for you getting the plastics off - I broke almost all the clips off the two 'front inner' small panels either side of the middle bit on my PCX when trying to get to the CBS resorvoir. My mistake may have been pulling forward rather than to the side as both come off on a slight horizontal orientation.

Also best to do this in warmer temps as during winter the plastic clips are brittle after years of being out in all weathers.

[Yorkie150]

I didn't want to leave this in the air in case anyone finds this via google.

I have not actually finished the job. But I have stripped it all down and taken off the original ignition switch. The job is not that hard - but it's a pain. If you have never taken off the fairings before it's a pain. Some of them are stiff and I only have a Haynes Manual - so had to be very careful. Haynes is generally okay - but it's a bit dishonest in places.

The actual hardest part for me was removing the base plate for my top box. Totally corroded bolts. Fortunately, I have a 3/8 impact gun and used a hammer to smash on a larger hex bit. Getting the ignition switch off is a bit like playing twister in that you need to rotate the handlebars around to get to the bolts - each one requires you to move it in another position.

Finally - the cable for the seat release and the fuel cap is less than easy imo. In the end I just unscrewed it from underneath the fuel cap after disengaging it from the switch to get access. I am quite sure there is an easier way to do this.

If you want to take the job on it only needs basic hand tools. But I'd highly recommend plastic pry tools. I took massive use of my magnetic pick up tools as well.

If you are used to working on cars or more complicated machinery you may overthink the electrical connectors to the 12v socket and the rear lights. I assumed they would require picks or applying pressure in a certain way. In reality, they are held on only with friction and just require a stiff tug to get them off.

I now need to decide if I CBA to do the valve clearances as the fairing is pretty much all off. I am waiting for the switch which will come next week. From a dealer for a new one with two keys in total it was just over £100. Given you get two new keys for that I don't think it's too bad.

If anyone wants any pics please let me know. I am looking forward to the summer and having my little scooter back on the road!

great news - and yes totally agree - panel removal is a pain in the ass....whoever designed this bike wants putting against a wall ...