The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hi all, I'm in the USA could not find a U.S. forum for these bikes anywhere.

Anyway I got this 2013??? PCX150 yesterday all panels are missing or broke and it sat for some time.

The ignition switch is missing and hot wired there is a crack in the little plastic line for coolant and it has none currently.

I have been reading thru your forum for the last 5 hours hoping to fix my problem to no avail.

My problem is the starter will not engage, I have checked and tried every trick and tip here and
have done the following:
tested the left and right brake switch confirming OK ; tested kill switch OK ; bypassed kickstand but tested OK ; Battery was missing.
I have jump pack on terminals plus battery charger ; tested and cleaned all fuses ; checked connectors for corrosion.

When I connect the ignition wires the fuel pump starts, I hear a relay click. The check engine light comes on then turns off, the speedo cycles.

I have also checked the start/charge relay by removing the cover then triggering the contact manually but nothing happens.

I could not find a test procedure for the starter/charger system.

Is there a way to manually "by jumper wires or some other means" to engage the starter?

Any help is appreciated. Getting frustrated !

I remember something about a "reset" button/switch for after an accidental 'lay down'.
Don't remember the details. I'm sure someone will find it in the manual.

Ok, I removed the spark plug and fuel injector and used a drill to turn the engine over with the variator pulley bolt I'm not getting fire or spark

It sounds like you have a really good handle on things to check. The one thing that is not clear is that you have an actual, known to be at least pretty OK battery installed. The ECM on these things is VERY picky.

I could find nothing in the service manual about a reset switch, but I confess I did not go beyond the index.

I'm also not sure I can post the salient few pages of the manual, but to expect you to fork over the clams for a manual for something that may just be trash is a bit nuts.
Here it goes:

Hey thanks, I'm now concerned that the ecu is bad, if it is the whole bike is junk.
It's a shame too because it has less than 1500 miles on it. I just can't afford the ecu.
My old Chinese scooter just broke a mount on the engine and it's toast and my only transportation.
I got this for free and it looked like it could be going easily.

mem turbo where are you located at.

Sikeston Missouri ,I just edited my profile to reflect

heres what I got so far today , I read here that the headlight only comes on when running but I checked voltages to the light high/low and was getting 12.8v

Also while spinning the engine with a drill if I use the kill switch I get resistance on the motor .

Memturbo, do you need a wiring diagram? This might help some....I hope. Also, a good place to purchase parts for your bike is partzilla.com

Three more things:

1. Your color code for your bike is under your seat, should you decide to keep the original colors.
2. If you do not mind dealing with foreign websites, that bike was manufactured in Thailand, so one site that has a lot of parts is powerbypcx.com, based in Thailand.
3. "When I connect the ignition wires the fuel pump starts,I hear a relay click ,The check engine light comes on then turns off,the speedo cycles".... this is what should happen when everything is in working order on your bike. There are 4 switches on the 2013 model that could cause problems, IF the ignition has not been compromised. Either the left or the right brake lever can be held in, the on/off switch on the right handlebar (red) must be in the on position, and the side kick stand must be up. If all of that is OK, the correct battery, fully charged, is a must. The bike is picky about that. I think it has to do with amp hours.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda ... 50/battery

Oh, and if you need part of the writing harness or the ecu, they have those too.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda ... re-harness

yeah I already went thru all that stuff everything check out (see first post) ,

I found a complete manual online and did a injector tests for power ,ohms and short to ground and the manual says to replace with good ecu and check again.

Its pointing towards the ecu.

I did try to get the codes by jumping the brown and pink wires but it would not flash codes.

I could disconnect various sensors and the check engine light would flash .

If I knew anyone with this scooter I could swap ECU to just see if it was or not and if it was the ECU I could get one used on EBAY. There is only one listing for the ECU .

Are there any other models or makes the ECU could be swapped with ?

Seems you got yourself one sick naked bike. Kudos to you for taking on the challenge to get her running and hopefully dressed

1st, Let's figure out When she was Born. You're guessing 2013? You may be right.
Click below link - to find Vin # - then decode Vin# (digit 10 = year of manufacture)

https://www.1aauto.com/content/articles ... r-decoding
NOTE: This too From their website. Ya'll can print it - wallet size chart Scoot's not starting. You sure have checked things out! Sometimes we overlook the easier stuff. Dad taught me to go after the simples first. Not that? Ok, Then dive in!

So I'm taking a stab at a simple non-start reason -
How about that side stand/aka/kickstand switch? Is it there? If so, Is it connected? Could it be That?

For a better understanding or just out of being interested, Here's a video showing "How-To DISCONNECT" our sidestand switch. Maybe a villian did this to your sickly baby?

KISS keep it simple stupid again my first post explains all procedures done it is not the kickstand,brake switch(left or right) lack of amps, voltage ,relays,fuses or lack of proper power anywhere on the bike including the ECU,fuse panel,gauge cluster relays ect

The fact that you get the speedo sweep and fuel pump prime sounds bodes well for the ECU, but I don't know much. I recall when mine would not start finding the ridiculous counsel from the manual about swapping out with a known, good ecu, like everyone has a couple hanging around.

You have tried putting in a real battery, yes? I'm not sure how the ECU will respond to a jump-pack voltage/amperage, but while you don't have a spare ECU, possibly a battery from your old scoot would suffice to eliminate oddball power as a possible culprit.

Patience with yourself and us - some of us don't fully absorb what we read, and just want to help. Your progress so far is good, but I can sense you frustration. My second suggestion is that you take apart every effn' connection plug that you can find and clean it (spray with deoxIT or some such (https://www.parts-express.com/caig-deox ... w--341-200) and reassemble a time or two. At least the tupperware is already out of the picture; getting the plastics off is enough to quell my enthusiasm for chasing down an issue, and I have the manual.

Some small thing is keeping the scoot from firing up - I feel you WILL find it.

Persevere!

Ok thanks all for the help didn't mean to get snippy

Anyone have any idea why Im unable to read the codes when connecting the 2 wires ?

I was looking at the diagram today and noticed that the blue/green wire from the ECU pin 14 goes to several different sensors including sidestand switch, fuel level

sensor,speed sensor,and the DLC plug . Given the fact my fuel level is flashing and I don't seem to have a speedometer showing mph when spinning the rear wheel with

a drill,Is there any way the fact the fuel gauge is flashing but I have a full tank of gas have anything to do with it not starting?

Like it wont start if no fuel or bad speed sensor?

You say in first post you've checked left and right brake light switches.
The two are very different.
Only the left one activates the starter.
Unless you hold the left lever fully in, it will never start (unless you've bypassed the starter element of the left brake switch)
The starter doesn't ever "engage," there's no separate starter motor with bendix, instead its direct drive ACG, the alternator becomes a motor and turns the engine over.

Yes the left was checked and I have the wires completely twisted together so no issue with the switch but have to disagree with them being different ,

According to my visual inspection and the diagram they are completely the same wires from the left to the right and are joined together in the harness .

I never tried the right brake for starting, but according to the first PDF I posted, the two are wired in parallel, as you have discovered by observation. Eitherr should work, and i will test that out at my earliest convenience. Assuming I can hold the thought.

My guess is that the blue-green wire is a sort of ECM specific common ground that lets the controller know that all the switches are in a "happy" state. I don't know what to make of that or how it may help, but it could be important.

The flashing fuel indicator with a full tank is odd. I do not believe it would have anything to do with not starting - probably more likely that the fuel level sending sensor was damaged at some point in the scoot's misadventures.

I don't know where the speedo picks up it signal - it could be someplace entirely different from the wheel (although until you get to the driven axle, RPM and speed are not particularly related).

I'm sorry that I have to say "I don't know" quite so much.

On that first PDF... what the heck is the CKP sensor?

News ! I took the blue-green wire and connected it to ground and the engine turned over!! but it blew a main fuse

I dont know if this could be a "floating" ground or just sensor dependent ground either way I was able to turn over the engine

Any help by anyone that know about this please help Im getting closer

BTW the ckp sensor is basically a crank sensor