The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Eh, don't think I'll be going back to scooters again.

Kind of need some sort of expert backup if something breaks(or I broke something), and I can't fix it.

At the very least, motorcycles seem to have more of that mechanical support locally. Maxi-scooters are an odd animal that nobody wants to deal with around here. It's just that if labor rates run at around $80-$100/hr, then it at least feels like it's worth it on a nice 250+cc motorcycle that will give you all you want and more(85+mph is fast enough to turn me into a bloody smear thanks) at full stock.

CB250s ought to be going cheap, now that the 300s are out.
Probably can't cruise at 85 on a 250......actually most would probably tell you to get 300 or more under you before you get on a highway.
Fish

I also vote for the CB300F Honda.

My wife loves the Suzuki V-Star 250. I think if we would have traded for one though, she would have lost out on extra storage, wind protection, and great gas mileage. We might have been able to put the Givi tailbox on the Suzuki so that she could put her helmet in something, and we could have bought a universal windscreen, but her legs would feel the cold in the fall and winter. Also, she doesn't like shifting, though she can do it. Her hands and fingers have problems...old age. Otherwise, it is a nice bike.

As far as the clutch removal goes on the PCX, I was able to break the but loose with a breaker bar and a lot of effort. It can be done without an impact wrench, but I would suggest a helper in order to keep everything on while pushing down on the breaker bar.

fish wrote:CB250s ought to be going cheap, now that the 300s are out.
Probably can't cruise at 85 on a 250......actually most would probably tell you to get 300 or more under you before you get on a highway.
Fish

I've been on the highway plenty of times on the PCX, and cruising at 85 would get me arrested .

Mel46 wrote:My wife loves the Suzuki V-Star 250. I think if we would have traded for one though, she would have lost out on extra storage, wind protection, and great gas mileage. We might have been able to put the Givi tailbox on the Suzuki so that she could put her helmet in something, and we could have bought a universal windscreen, but her legs would feel the cold in the fall and winter. Also, she doesn't like shifting, though she can do it. Her hands and fingers have problems...old age. Otherwise, it is a nice bike.

As far as the clutch removal goes on the PCX, I was able to break the but loose with a breaker bar and a lot of effort. It can be done without an impact wrench, but I would suggest a helper in order to keep everything on while pushing down on the breaker bar.

I believe that's the Yamaha V-Star you're referring to, and that thing is likely too long to fit in my spot.

Alrighty, so I haven't had a chance to pop open the transmission and hopefully fix whatever's wrong with it, but what kind of price should I go for and what would be the ground rules for a Craigslist sale?

My original plan was to fix the transmission problem, finish the installation of the throttle body, which would probably cost $500 minimum and about 2 weeks, and maybe sell it for $2000. I'm thinking about taking my shot at the transmission, and fixed or not, just skip the rest and sell it and all the remaining parts(stock and aftermarket) for $1500.

Brand new it costs about $4700 after tax and all the stealership fees, so I figure it would be a pretty good deal.

Also wondering about how to structure my ad, as I would be offering all the parts. I personally don't feel like I would have any need of those chains I normally use to lock up the PCX, but I did burn at least $600 on them, which makes me want to shoot for $2000 price tag either way, but I can't say for sure anyone would have any use for those either. While there are engine mods, I also did a ton of non-engine installations like GPS/alarm, wind screen, adjustable levers, aftermarket exhaust, vario, belt, air filter, top box, brake pads, etc. Can't say those would take away from the function or comfort of the PCX.

Also wondering if there's a "how to not get mugged from Craigslist ads", and deciding who pays if he wants to have a mechanic look at it, or whether or not to trust the guy to have "his guy" look at it(not a mechanic at any dealer).

Craigslist ad? Easy. Think of a reasonable price and then double it. Even a broken-down hag of a bike is described as "mint" so use any superlatives you want. Treat it as a creative writing exercise.

P.S. Bought the Kawa and BMW in the sig line off of Craigslist. I didn't get taken--too badly.

"Also wondering if there's a "how to not get mugged from Craigslist ads", and deciding who pays if he wants to have a mechanic look at it, or whether or not to trust the guy to have "his guy" look at it(not a mechanic at any dealer)."

I've also sold two bikes (Harleys) on Craigslist.

-You'll get lots of scammers: trying to low-ball you on the phone; or asking for your address and never showing up (see comment below). I refuse to haggle on the phone and require them to see the bike in person before I deal. Just resign yourself to the fact that you'll potentially waste a lot of time before you get a sale.
-Potential buyer wants mechanic's inspection: he wants, he pays. I would have no problem letting a buyer bring somebody to inspect the bike but wouldn't allow a buyer to take a bike to a mechanic somewhere.
-Cash in hand (yours) before test ride; must have motorcycle endorsement on valid DL. I wouldn't allow test rides unless I got a good feeling about the buyer, believed he was a serious shopper, and it was a no-deal otherwise. Say "no test rides" and gauge the reaction. Then decide.
-Consider meeting in a public place, away from your house.
-Consider selling your accessories separately. Most buyers won't care about them and thus won't pay extra. Think about what accessories you might want to have for a future bike (weren't you going to buy an immediate replacement???); keep them and save money later.
-Besides doing the title work, have a bill of sale (stating no warranty, etc.) that's valid for HI.
-Form of payment: took cash in one instance and a cashier's check in another. When buying off Craigslist, paid with a cashier's check (we had settled on a price at a prior meeting) one time and paid cash one time (didn't know final price beforehand; took enough cash for asking price but ended up paying a little less).

The accessories I was just going to toss in there, as I have no use for them, shipping to and from Hawaii is expensive. I was also going to purchase a CB300F, so I doubt any PCX accessories would be of any use there.

Can you find a used CBR250R? The new Yamaha R3 is amazing! if you want to spend money.
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https://youtu.be/Z844MP3GypQ
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Eh, figured I'd go with a new CB300F and run it full stock(maybe aftermarket tires). Because then I'd know for sure I was the only one who could have screwed with it(and I won't).

Okay, is there supposed to be a f*cking socket that's supposed to be able to fit into that deep hole inside the trans cover for the 8mm bolt? Mine doesn't fit, I can't find anything online, and I figure I'm 10 seconds away from smashing my PCX with a crowbar, dumping the whole goddamn thing into a dumpster and saving myself the motherf*cking goddamn trouble.

The instructions on the service manual are also clear as f*cking mud. I wasn't able to figure out how to separate the fairing from the floor panel, there seems to be a screw holding it in place, but the screw itself doesn't seem to have a head that I can stick a screwdriver into to unscrew it, and I also cracked the fairing trying to put it back in when I found out I didn't have a socket that would fit it. I'm really hoping I don't have to spend another $100 on a goddamn cordless drill just so I can use an 8mm socket with an extension bit, because I'm seriously contemplating destroying my PCX.

taking the cover off of the belt/ pulleys is an easy 5 minute job. I have a 1/4 drive swivel 8mm and 1/4 drive deep 8 that get in everywhere without removing any of the bodywork.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-11146-4-In ... 8A46D4BE48

Like that? Because I bought a 3/8" drive T-handle tool, and I don't think I can get in there.

Might also piss me off more to spend anymore money to work on this thing.

sendler2112 wrote:taking the cover off of the belt/ pulleys is an easy 5 minute job. I have a 1/4 drive swivel 8mm and 1/4 drive deep 8 that get in everywhere without removing any of the bodywork.

Having finally popped the thing off myself, I find that very hard to believe unless you just plain don't need an impact driver, as the fairing WILL get in the way of that. Broke the fairing a bit more , but I got the trans open. Went from sliders to rollers(from 13g to 14g), no change(seemed to pull faster with the heavier weights if that makes any sense).

I did see this on the drive face though, kind of wondering if the belt riding up against the case could do this to solid steel:

Any little 1/4 drive socket kit from the farm store or auto parts store will have what you need.
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http://www.autozone.com/ratchets-socket ... id=2370877
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http://www.sears.com/craftsman-48-pc-1- ... 934270000P
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Yes, the belt wears the drive faces.
Ever had a shave from a barber using a cutthroat razor?
Did you notice what the razor gets sharpened (worn down) on...?

gn2 wrote:Yes, the belt wears the drive faces.
Ever had a shave from a barber using a cutthroat razor?
Did you notice what the razor gets sharpened (worn down) on...?

That's not wear, that's straight pitting, like what you might see next to a sloppy weld that spits hot slag and sparks everywhere. I know that because I took up welding once.

That particular combination(Yuminashi vario & stock drive face) was only run for less than 200 miles, not enough time to cause significant wear. There is also no sign of that damage on the NCY or AdvancePro faces, both of which did most of the 2500 miles I have on the PCX, and both are still smooth as glass with only slightly dark or slightly light rings showing any indication of wear. No such damage on the Daytona vario either.

I thought you had spilled drops of water on it
Pitting could be down to defective manufacture or ingress of foreign bodies.
Have you been riding it on gravel roads?
Or you're using a low quality aftermarket belt maybe?