The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

sendler2112 wrote:Might as well wait and see how it works. It is only a 1/2 hour job to switch a vario from one to the other and see what it does on both machines. I sneak the bolts out of the cover without touching any of the bodywork. You may want to order different weights with the next one if you are not pulling at 8,000 rpm.

Great. I'm guessing that kit comes with 13g rollers.... I'll order some 12g ones as well.

Oh, so it's possible to get the bolts out without removing body panels? Awesome.

I've never tinkered with scooter engines/transmissions before (or any engines really). I've got a basic tool kit. But to swap out variator and drive face, am I going to need some kind of specialized tool? -- to hold the belt in place or something like that?

You may want the holding tool for the variator so you can do everything by hand and torque the nut. But I just use an impact to zip the nut off and then just give it a few taps with the impact to tighten it back on but this takes some feel to keep from over tightening the nut and ripping the threads off the crank.

sendler2112 wrote:You may want the holding tool for the variator so you can do everything by hand and torque the nut. But I just use an impact to zip the nut off and then just give it a few taps with the impact to tighten it back on but this takes some feel to keep from over tightening the nut and ripping the threads off the crank.

Ah, okay.
Would anyone have a link for purchasing the holding tool?

typhon2222 wrote: the holding tool?

here is a video for a homade tool.
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typhon2222 wrote:

sendler2112 wrote:Might as well wait and see how it works. It is only a 1/2 hour job to switch a vario from one to the other and see what it does on both machines. I sneak the bolts out of the cover without touching any of the bodywork.

Sendler, what did you use to get the bolts out of the cover without removing the panel? -- standard ratcheting socket wrench?

A swivel (universal) socket extension 1/4" with the 8mm socket and then a 6in or longer 1/4" extension bar.

I peronally thought about drilling a hole long enough to feed the socket through the bodywork. On a black bike this would be no problem, but on a white one, would be a bit unsightly. Ive always just taken the body panel off in the past. But I can't find my 8mm short socket! Lol. The one time I did it with the panel on though wasn't bad and I did that with an 8mm deep which really put an awkward angle on the swivel attachment.

ScooterMan wrote:A swivel (universal) socket extension 1/4" with the 8mm socket and then a 6in or longer 1/4" extension bar.

I peronally thought about drilling a hole long enough to feed the socket through the bodywork. On a black bike this would be no problem, but on a white one, would be a bit unsightly. Ive always just taken the body panel off in the past. But I can't find my 8mm short socket! Lol. The one time I did it with the panel on though wasn't bad and I did that with an 8mm deep which really put an awkward angle on the swivel attachment.

Awesome. Thanks. I'll need to get a swivel attachment.....

typhon2222 wrote:I'll need to get a swivel attachment.....

A universal comes with every cheap socket kit along with a couple extensions but a universal is too long in overall length to get in there. I have an actual swivel socket with the universal built right on to it. But you can probably just as well use a regular socket on a ratchet to reach up in there to get the front bolts started and then turn them out the rest of the way with your fingers.

sendler2112 wrote:

typhon2222 wrote:I'll need to get a swivel attachment.....

A universal comes with every cheap socket kit along with a couple extensions but a universal is too long in overall length to get in there. I have an actual swivel socket with the universal built right on to it. But you can probably just as well use a regular socket on a ratchet to reach up in there to get the front bolts started and then turn them out the rest of the way with your fingers.

I use a 1/4" drive rachet and various lengths of extenions. No need for a universal. As Sendler says, just get the front started and you can spin them the rest of the way out with your fingers. On my first attempt I wasn't paying attention, and I scuffed the body work up while using a deepwell impact to remove the variator nut. no biggie, but a rag in between or some tape probably would have prevented it.

I'm using 12.5 gram rollers, but am going to try a combo of 10gr and 12gr rollers when it's warm enough to change them, to see if I can bump my pulling rpms up to a consistent 8 to 8.3k as Sendler posted.

sendler2112 wrote:Changing the cam probably wouldn't make that much difference anyway. I know madiedog had the same feeling we all have in that the PCX is the perfect size but needs a little more top speed so he did the full monte with a cam and a bore kit and was disappointed by how little performance was gained. if you have time to do the work yourself, the parts are cheap enough. But to pay a dealer to build an engine like that. Forget it. Especially if you want to install a fuel controller like the Bazzaz and have it tuned. You could almost buy another bigger bike and have two like he did (or four like I did).
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http://www.bazzaz.net/index.php/fuel-co ... controller
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Thinking back on this subject some more since I'm mulling over messing with the fuel mix.

From what I've been able to follow on maddiedog's bbk mod, he never actually put it in(the camshaft that is), not having a bearing press or something to that tune. Then there was some mention that he didn't need one, at which point he seemed to have simply procrastinated on that note .

The Bazzaz I might purchase if I can't get ahold of the Yuminashi BBK(almost seems as scarce as the NCY Drive Face), and if I happen to need one.

I assume the Yuminashi AFR Controller Unit would also be a "crude" solution, so to speak?:
http://www.yuminashi.eu/afr-controller-unit/

That aside however, shouldn't a proper motorcycle shop have a dyno session I could have them use instead of purchasing my own? At least on the Bazzaz site, it seems cheaper than renting one out for $400/mo . Oh, and of course, I suspect the moto shop would actually know what they're doing with it. I might have an easier time attempting to assemble a nuclear warhead than to remap the fuel .

My Takegawa cam is sitting in my drawer collecting dust, though it sounds as though it might be better to go the Yuminashi route where they also have the high-lift rockers, valve springs, and larger throttle body available.

The Kitaco fuel controller would be way better and appears to be programable the same as the Bazzaz.
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http://japan.webike.net/products/21552398.html
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Presumably I should bring my laptop(which I will also need to buy and run Windows on Bootcamp, because it's a Mac) to a shop that knows what they're doing with it?

Even if I knew what AFR values I want in stock form, I assume that doesn't necessarily mean I can use that same map post-mods(BBK, cam).

typhon2222 wrote:Thanks to Sendler, who posted this link a few posts above, I ordered my NYC variator/drive face/roller set from this eBay seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181327427488?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I placed the order less than 24 hours ago, yet the vendor has already sent me full shipping information -- along with four (!) photographs: the assembly laid out, the invoice, the assembly in the box, and the sealed box plastered with the complete international mailing label and custom form. I have NEVER seen such thoroughness in my life -- no vendor has ever sent me a photograph of the box complete with filled-out address label.

Just to confirm....that kit will work on both the 2011 PCX 125 and 2013 PCX 150? If so, I'll order a second ASAP.

Update: the package arrived today.

Everything arrived exactly as advertised (and as shown in the photographs of the contents sent me by the seller). The rollers he sent are 12g.

And the shipping speed was incredible. I ordered on December 24. It arrived on January 2.
So....... 9 days from Taiwan to nowhere Illinois. During the busiest shipping time of the year. And including making it through customs.
Yeah, I'm really happy.

Now to install it!
Got my 1/4" and 1/2" socket wrench sets and my breaker bar.
Got my screwdriver.
Got my variator/clutch holding tool (http://amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS4NA8 ... UTF8&psc=1).
Got my tachometer (http://amazon.com/gp/product/B00AR2R090 ... UTF8&psc=1)
And have maddiedog's step-by-step guide (http://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2598).
Anything I'm missing?

Beer? Mechanical work is always more fun when you're not sober .

Valiant wrote:Beer? Mechanical work is always more fun when you're not sober .

Drats, I just realized.... while the stock drive face has those two holes suitable for receiving the prongs of the variator holder tool, the NCY replacement drive face has no such holes.

Hmmm.... wondering how to grip it. The raised ventilation baffles or whatever they are.... can I just nestle the prongs of the holder tool between them? I wonder about their strength.

I guess at least we can get the old one off. I am sure Scooterman has the answer for this.

SECoda wrote:I guess at least we can get the old one off. I am sure Scooterman has the answer for this.

I'm guessing, from Sendler's post a few back, that I could use an impact wrench. But I've never used one in my life before, and worry about overtightening/stripping things. (I think Sendler said he used it to give the bolt just a little tap; but I've got no experience.)

He just said you needed to get a feel for tightening it in order to avoid stripping the threads. Based on how it works, I would assume you only use it once or twice after it stops turning in order to tighten it.

Yea,just tap 1sec the trigger couple of times and itll be fine. Dont try to exert force on the pulley fins,theyll snap off...

SECoda wrote:I guess at least we can get the old one off. I am sure Scooterman has the answer for this.

Can you take some photos of the old parts next to the new ones so we can try to see the differences? It's odd that the NCY drive face doesn't have the removal holes.