Interesting point, Mel. If the oil is really cruddy (and it sounds like it is!), then there is probably a number of places where there is build up that should not be there. New oil run for a hundred or so miles will act as a rinse.
Does anybody have any favorite additive that might help what I will call "temporary oil" do a better job of cleaning?
Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheating
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- GeorgeSK
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
On my scoot, getting there is WAY more than half the fun!
Please paste this address into a new tab and add yourself to the map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1NlP7xk7KMdJReQnm-iDhldFBdpQ&ll=4.995760578398276%2C0&z=2
but please, don't delete anybody, no matter how badly they deserve deleting
Please paste this address into a new tab and add yourself to the map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1NlP7xk7KMdJReQnm-iDhldFBdpQ&ll=4.995760578398276%2C0&z=2
but please, don't delete anybody, no matter how badly they deserve deleting
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Just change the oil again after 100 miles or so if you want, DON'T put any solvent or etc to intentionally loosen and circulate crud thru the engine and scar it up until you change it again. Will do more harm than good.Does anybody have any favorite additive that might help what I will call "temporary oil" do a better job of cleaning?
BTW, this is the same reason why if your older car/truck has run substantial miles (40k or more) with regular oil - you should NOT switch to synthetic. You'll loosen and circulate more crud than your filter can handle thru your engine until you change it again. I did this once and then pulled the oil filter after 50 miles or so because my buddy warned me (but too late). NO oil would drain from the filter, rather it was completely filled with heavy crud. I ended up changing the filter again every 100 miles 4 or 5 times before oil would finally drain from the filter. If you have been using dinosaur oil, stay using dinosaur oil - it's perfectly good lubricant.
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
here's the link discussing my TPS problemMarshallscottw1 wrote:TPS in the FI?alx123 wrote:I would say the TPS sensor in the FI coz I had the same problem before. But mine didn't have that burning plastic smell and the overheat light on.
Please elaborate and tell me how to check/fix if possible please.
https://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=9329
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Those diagnostic tools are super in sorting thru FI & ignition issues - LoL a miracle of modern technology.
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
When I swapped the engine on my 125, I had the overheat light come on with the first ride. I didn't properly fill the coolant, so there was a bunch of air in the lines. Is it possible they tried to swap the coolant and didn't fill right, leaving a bunch of air in there?
I've seen a lot of good suggestions so far on oil -- I 2nd the recommendation to do another oil change after ~100 or so more miles. Any w30 synthetic should work great (0w30, 5w30, 10w30). Make sure you use synthetic though.
I've seen a lot of good suggestions so far on oil -- I 2nd the recommendation to do another oil change after ~100 or so more miles. Any w30 synthetic should work great (0w30, 5w30, 10w30). Make sure you use synthetic though.
Currently ride: 2011 Honda PCX 125 - Upgraded windshield and seat, keeping this one mostly stock
Previously rides: 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (tons of mods - takegawa 170cc big bore kit, gears, etc), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
Previously rides: 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (tons of mods - takegawa 170cc big bore kit, gears, etc), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheating
Did you ever figure out way was causing the power loss. I currently have the same problem with my 2019
Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheating
Please tell me, if you close pipe 8 of the small cooling circle, will the coolant be colder, especially in the heat? In order not to open the constant cooling of the engine in a large circle. Thank you!