clutch driven pulley...how to remove?

[dergav]

Going to change the drive belt and the roller weights on my 2014 Forza NSS300. To remove the belt ( and replace) it appears I need to take off the clutch driven pulley (as well as the drive pulley)….the belt wont come off without taking that off?...I did similar work on the Honda SWing a few years ago ( 125cc Euro scooter) but don't remember needing to take off the clutch driven pulley to remove the belt on that bike... I have the tool to hold the drive pulley to loose and then tighten the holding nut on the drive pulley.... but what do I use/?..how do I ?..loosen ( and then torque tighten) the nut holding the clutch driven pulley. The works manual refers to a "special tool" but I am not sure what that is...but for certain I wont have it... ...any advice/help?/tricks to overcome the problem?
Apologies if this is already covered elsewhere on this forum but I cannot see any reference.

thanks

[you you]

You don’t need to take the clutch off. Just the driven face.

[fish]

Correct. ...do not need to remove the clutch - but since you're in there, why not remove the clutch, clean the bell, maybe touch up the clutch pads, etc. The same holding tool will hold the clutch for nut removal. Get a good look at the belt, etc.
Fish

[easyrider]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnlrl8TdfT4

[dergav]

thanks for the comments/advices
Easyrider...I had seen that short film...only difficulty is that I don't have an impact drill...hence my question.The works manual talks about a "special tool"..which looks like a professional strap spanner.

Don't need to remove the clutch?...MMm...that's not what the works manual says nor what is on the short film...no way the belt comes off my Forza without removing the clutch. No space between the casing and the clutch bell etc. to get the belt off or back on.
However I have now managed to remove everything with help of a golf pal this morning and am cleaning everything exposed....putting in the new rollers and the new belt and everything back on nice and clean...some black dust in there!
thanks again to all.

[easyrider]

Which type of new belt did you install. Original or cog style ??

[dergav]

not too sure what you mean by the "cog style". I got the Honda belt from David Silver in UK a main Honda supplier....so I suppose original. When I am unsure I usually go for the manufacturer kit. Will give the bike a run tomorrow and see if I notice any improvement with the new rollers and belt. However will be surprised if I do as the bike has run like a "sweetie" from new....I will see.
thanks again.

[dergav]

maybe just "wishful thinking" but the Forza acceleration appears more responsive and nippier after fitting the new belt and rollers.

[BRed]

Installing a new drive belt and rollers gears you "up", as in taller gearing....the belt is wider and the rollers fatter so all clearances are at max.
All shift points drop a few hundred rpm, revs are reduced and fuel mileage usually increase!

All that being said, your experience is testimony to fact the Forza 300 does NOT need a lower starting gear.

Riders with low powered scoots often complain of huge performance drop after installing new belts and rollers, since their old worn components were steadily gearing them lower...
the Forza doesn't have that issue.

The OEM drive belt is indeed of the "cogged" variety, having teeth and as Dergav mentioned, the rear clutch assembly does have to come off to install a new belt.

The clearance is such that a worn belt might slip past the clutch pulley and housing but a healthy new one will not.

[dergav]

to be honest...I don't think an OEM belt however worn could come off without removing the clutch...it would still have the cogs or would have disintegrated......just no space to get anything off unless very thin .
I ended up using my own made up tool to hold the flywheels to loosen the nuts. I remember I read the idea a few years ago on the SilverWing forum site...basically a short plank of strong timber with hole drilled to allow the socket set through and two smaller holes for two bolts to push through and into the flywheel holes and then braced against the garage floor.... very effective and allows a single person to loosen/tighten the nuts. Simple things are often the best and no need for a fancy expensive tool.
Will be curious to see if fuel use improves as you suggest may happen. I don't keep a manual fuel record calculation but the bike computer is giving me 90/91MPG ( UK Galls) all the time ...occasionally dropped to 86/87MPG but in 16500 mls never below that. I don't know of course how accurate the reading is. If anything like the fuel gauge then it will be dodgy....but who cares. Whatever the consumption is it is what it is.