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Hi everyone brought myself a brand new pcx last week rust spot on a weld Spot on centre stand already am I being picky lol

Rooneydavid79 wrote:Hi everyone brought myself a brand new pcx last week rust spot on a weld Spot on centre stand already am I being picky lol

The origins of life always begin with something small.

Am I being to obtuse?

you you wrote:

Rooneydavid79 wrote:Hi everyone brought myself a brand new pcx last week rust spot on a weld Spot on centre stand already am I being picky lol

The origins of life always begin with something small.

Am I being to obtuse?

probably, but thats why we like you

default wrote:

you you wrote:

Rooneydavid79 wrote:Hi everyone brought myself a brand new pcx last week rust spot on a weld Spot on centre stand already am I being picky lol

The origins of life always begin with something small.
Am I being to obtuse?

probably, but thats why we like you

Lol

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi and welcome aboard our forum(s)! Rust already on a new PCX, I would be bothered by that. There's no guessing with me, I Am picky and then some. So I hear ya!
Guess your location climate attributes to that, heh? Try some protective coating on the bike.
Oh Gosh my dang phone is telling me it's dying!! Damn!
Someone help with the spray please?

Grabbed me iPad. Sorry 'bout that. This is the spray I was referring to: A neatly placed coating on the metals will help prevent rust. Not the tires, brakes, seat, foot mats, grips, plastics (? Hmm) you get what I mean. Just the rustables

WhiteNoise wrote:Grabbed me iPad. Sorry 'bout that. This is the spray I was referring to:

image.jpeg

A neatly placed coating on the metals will help prevent rust. Not the tires, brakes, seat, foot mats, grips, plastics (? Hmm) you get what I mean. Just the rustables

I use this too. Great stuff but a drop of engine oil would do the trick too

Agree 2yous I have used leftover oil on my scoot. I also coat indoor and outdoor tools with it. And let's not forget the bicycle rims and metals, they get a thin coating as well. So many uses for oil. Prevent rust, I say!

Bicycle rims? I can't imagine that would have a positive effect on braking (unless you have them fancy disk brakes...).

Slip and Slide? Ouch! It could happen, right?
George I have three bicycle's, a 1964 Sears 3 speed made in Austria (only 1 speed works now), a 1972 Panasonic Sport 10 speed and a 2014(?) 7 speed Electra Townie forward peddler dressed and sporting a Kappa top box.

The wheels on the Panasonic started pitting years ago in Florida's humid weather, the gum white wall tires are bubbled need replacement (again). This bike hangs from my garage ceiling. I coat the metals with oil, and yes the rims. I'm not riding this one with flat pimpled tires

The Sears bike rims pitted long ago but I keep a light coat of oil on them just the same (avoiding gum wall tires). I take it for a spin yearly around the community.

I enjoy using 1 or 2 speeds mostly. So even the newer 7 speed bike gears get mostly ignored.

Geez I sound like a real biker That IS funny. I bicycle ride very little as of late. Spring and Fall are the best.. but then I'll choose to cruise on Big Brother WN. Sad cuzz my body knows the difference. No excercise "shows"

Leftover Motor oil is useful and goes a long way. I have lots of it.
Uh, No! That was NOT an invite to bring all your rustibles to Me for their winter coats
Ya know what? I just reminded myself (or you did George) I have to oil my Mom's wheelchair today. It's been squeaking and Mom been getting the "look."
Chow

As we slip and slide off topic...

I'll bet it would not take much to get the three speed working again - it very likely just needs a tiny bit of adjustment. For real entertainment, though, you could rebuild it. I did that on a Sturmey Archer hub back in the 70's. It was not hard, but there were quite a few bitzy parts. I replaced the pawl springs and the hub worked like a charm for another decade or two (when I decided I really didn't need the old clunker kicking around). To preview the entertainment: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_3-spd.html

Steel rims. Hmmm. I guess I am a bit of an elitist (or became one once I got a real job). Everything has had alloy rims since my Peugeot U08 was stolen from my college dorm. I expect you do have to do some preventative maintenance in your environment.

My bicycles have also not seen the light of day since Mantis came on the scene. Maybe take the all-terrain around town to the library, but the days of 40 mile jaunts or week-long unsupported camping tours are very small in the rear view mirror of time.

WhiteNoise wrote:Agree 2yous I have used leftover oil on my scoot. I also coat indoor and outdoor tools with it. And let's not forget the bicycle rims and metals, they get a thin coating as well. So many uses for oil. Prevent rust, I say!

On my old cars, in the days before before plastic wing/fender liners I used to change the oil and then use the old oil to brush the underneath of the car

Uhh, beford (I mean before) fiberass? (I mean fiberglass?) And Tupperware? After all, it's what (some) mechanics do after an oil change. If they make a mess they just spread the love. No waste Monies worth! Win!

Watch yourself, new cars "used oil" is carcinogenic......I'm sure scooters are the same.

It's good to have a supply of those stretchy type gloves professional mechanics use. You can buy them by the bag or box. If you have allergies or have problems with latex look for a suitable substitute. Nitrile gloves are an option available on the market as well. As long as you don't pinch a hole in them it's a lot easier to clean up afterwards and don't need to use a solvent like turpentine, mineral spirits, or gasoline to get the oil and crud off your hands. The only drawback is that on hot humid days they trap the sweat and you end up wearing gloves full of water. . .so it's best to put them on only when you really need them. There are all kinds of mechanics gloves available on the market but as you get more sophisticated ones the price goes up accordingly.

PCX150Rider wrote:It's good to have a supply of those stretchy type gloves professional mechanics use.

I like cotton gardening cloves. Cost me a $1 and can be thrown away afterwards.

I've got latex ones too, but usually end up with the pools of sweat in them that you mention.

Two options when wearing latex/nitrile gloves.
Use baby or body powder on your hands before you put the gloves on.
Wear thin cotton gloves under the latex/nitrile gloves.

Dave