The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

I can't decide. A newgas station opened up very close to me, that has non-ethanol. I am on my third tank of non-ethanol 87, and I swear it's faster doing a 20 mph roll on… Is it my imagination or is anybody else seeing this too?

Jge64 wrote:I can't decide. A newgas station opened up very close to me, that has non-ethanol. I am on my third tank of non-ethanol 87, and I swear it's faster doing a 20 mph roll on… Is it my imagination or is anybody else seeing this too?

I cant see you from here.

Not sure if 13 percent alcohol will affect power that significantly,however you can expect a little better fuel economy.Unfortunately on a scooter the difference will negligible.Alcohol based fuels tend to be a good cleaner and will tend to keep your fuel system cleaner.The downside is typically seen in marine environment where water is absorbed and makes engines run poorly .Additionally,older gas tanks that contain krud will be cleaned by the alcohol.This krud ends up in carburetor passages and elsewhere creating major problems and mechanical disassembly to clean out those plugged up orifices etc

Glen since you brought the topic up, I thought I'd add this website:
http://pure-gas.org

I'd like to try a tankful myself.

I'm keeping that site WN
Right now the nearest is Bloomington Illinois but maybe someday.

I don't recommend Seafoam to clean out the corn cobs but a lot of Harley owners use it now and then. The only time I used it was just before I tore down for a top end rebuild to clean out the fuel tank and pump. I also used it for a few miles in the crankcase with the oil just before dumping and flushing. I wouldn't leave it in for long as its powerful cleaning agents have been known to bring on issues you normally wouldn't have if not loosening up crude on high mileage vehicles. Be careful using these stations on high mileage vehicles, maybe sneak up on it with half and half for while before going pure gas.

just dont add a can of creamed corn to tank

Can of un-creamed ok? I got some! Check those expiry dates!

I have found that IF you can find a station that has regular unleaded without any ethanol, your bike will run a bit smoother, and you will probably get a few mpg better, but as was pointed out previously, you really won't notice it that much on a scooter. I run the ethanol blend because I have to...the closest station without ethanol blends is out in the 'country'. So, ever so often I use Seafoam to clean up the 'system'. My bike thanks me. :-)

Mel46 wrote:I have found that IF you can find a station that has regular unleaded without any ethanol, your bike will run a bit smoother, and you will probably get a few mpg better, but as was pointed out previously, you really won't notice it that much on a scooter. I run the ethanol blend because I have to...the closest station without ethanol blends is out in the 'country'. So, ever so often I use Seafoam to clean up the 'system'. My bike thanks me. :-)

Doesn't seafoam contain ethanol?

you you wrote: Doesn't seafoam contain ethanol?

Reading Seafoam:
Contains: Pet. Distillate, Pet. Oil, and Propanol

What are Petroleum Distillates?
(A PDF copy brought to you by Northern Tails...and me )

Petroleum Distillates General Information
• Petroleum distillates is the term commonly used to refer to aliphatic hydrocarbons. Aliphatic hydrocarbons can actually be divided into two groups: petroleum distillates and synthetic paraffinic hydrocarbons. We use petroleum distillates to mean both types of products.
• Petroleum distillates include mineral spirits, kerosene, white spirits, naphtha, and Stoddard solvent. These products may contain trace amounts of benzene and other aromatics.
• When compared to petroleum distillates, the paraffinic hydrocarbons have lower flammability, lower aromatic content, narrower boiling range, and higher solvency. They are also more expensive than the petroleum distillates.
• The petroleum distillates (and paraffinic hydrocarbons) work well on hard-to- clean organic soils such as heavy oil and grease, tar, and waxes.
• These products typically have low liquid surface tensions (22 to 28 dynes/cm). This allows them to penetrate and clean small spaces.
• Petroleum distillates typically operate at near room temperatures. This is due to the flammability of the products. However, the flash points may be higher than that of terpenes.
• Petroleum distillates are usually used in immersion baths.
• Ultrasonics may or may not work, depending on the particular product.
• Petroleum distillates can typically handle high soil loads.
• When the cleaning power of the bath is exhausted, the entire bath usually needs to
be replaced.
• Petroleum distillates are compatible with most materials including most
elastomers. Mineral spirits may not be compatible with EPDM, SBR, and
silicone.
• Petroleum distillates are frequently used in manual wipe-down processes.
• Aliphatic hydrocarbons are often blends containing oxygenated hydrocarbons.
Flash points are higher than that of terpenes and traditional solvents. Lower flash points mean faster drying but more danger of burning.

And, what did I learn from this pray tell? Do Not Sniff

I use Star Tron fuel additive and have never had any problems with it. Ethanol has been a big problem in the boating industry and in general since 2002. Older fuel systems in vintage motorcycles may have parts that ethanol attacks. Check out this video for a demonstration:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yh4Tb5kIZhg

I have used Seafoam in carb and FI car and small engines for 40 years. Great cleaner and fuel stabilizer (up to 2 years). Plus it doesn't turn into thick goo like Stabil if left in more than a year.

As previously stated there is definitely a fuel economy boost using non ethanol. In larger engines (read cars) it can yield up to 15% increase in fuel economy.

I've a bunch of vehicles and this is a long debated topic on other forums. Bottom line is SeaFoam is really good and does what it claims, far better than StaBil (which I used previously). I hear StarTron is also good.

Ethanol is great in high RPM race engines, not in commuter vehicles.

The higher the octane the fewer micro-detonations in the engine, creating less pitting, less carbon buildup, and less wear. The effects of micro-detonations are seen over time, so most people don't notice, like sugar and diabetes--when you see the effects the damage is done, and continuing the behavior accelerates the problem.

If you don't maintain the rest of the vehicle, or plan to sell it and trade up, the cost of 93 octane vs. 89 isn't worth it. More important than fuel is quality, clean oil, see https://bobistheoilguy.com for more information.

WI_Hedgehog wrote:I've a bunch of vehicles and this is a long debated topic on other forums. Bottom line is SeaFoam is really good and does what it claims, far better than StaBil (which I used previously). I hear StarTron is also good.

Ethanol is great in high RPM race engines, not in commuter vehicles.

The higher the octane the fewer micro-detonations in the engine, creating less pitting, less carbon buildup, and less wear. The effects of micro-detonations are seen over time, so most people don't notice, like sugar and diabetes--when you see the effects the damage is done, and continuing the behavior accelerates the problem.

If you don't maintain the rest of the vehicle, or plan to sell it and trade up, the cost of 93 octane vs. 89 isn't worth it. More important than fuel is quality, clean oil, see BobIsTheOilGuy.com for more information.

Oh no. W'ed been 84 days without a Bobs the Oil Guy.

Oil fetishists might like to get a BMW HP4 Race which needs a whole new engine every 3100 miles.
If they changed the oil every ride they might stretch it to 4000 miles between engine changes.

you you wrote:Oh no. W'ed been 84 days without a Bobs the Oil Guy.

OH NO! I searched "Bob Is The Oil Guy" on this forum and...84 days!

Uh oh, I think I just did it again...