k2apache's 6.0 2013 PCX Mod thread

[k2apache6.0]

Some forks have screw tops, others are a plug held in with a circlip. The damper rods have to be drilled out to pass enough oil to let the PDD valves take over damping duty, in effect making the damper rod redundant.

[ScottDR]

Ah, if they unscrew one should be able to change the fluid to a higher viscosity as well! Hmmm

[k2apache6.0]

Doesn't matter if they unscrew or not, the oil is changeable obviously. When you install the PDD valves you'll need to change the oil. I chose Motul 15w over the stock 10w. If you need a better explaination as to 'how to' PM me and I'll give you my ph number. 10 mins on the phone saves reams of back and forth written text

[Oyabun]

Hey Apache. I'm not having any luck searching the forums for YSS fork valves. Are they hard to install? Are they available in North America? Thanks!

Yeah, not easy to find. A seller from the UK has them, he's on ebay in the states too though. They are also known as PDD valves.
Installation is easy but requires some drilling and a little guesswork setting the valves depending on your weight, I think I only needed 2 1/2 turns in on the screws from 1st spring contact for my 190lbs clothed weight. You'll also have to drill out your damper rod holes to about 3/8" and chamfer the holes from burrs. The valves will now take over damping duties from the damping holes in the rods. Next is setting the spring pressure on the valves themselves, more screw turns In for fatter folks. Oyabun (I think) has a tutorial on here somewhere, or send him a PM. He helped me out when I had a question or two about mine.
With the fork valves and YSS uprated springs there was a good improvement at the front end, much better over sharp edged bumps and much less dive under braking.

Hello folks,
Not as regular here as I used to be, but still around. The original front suspension upgrade topic is http://hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4877
And Mario's picture filled excellent installation write-up - followed by further explanation how front suspension valving works: http://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5344

Just a minor correction.
The PD valve works only on the compression stroke of the forks, rebound is still controlled by the original damper rod - that's why one has to bump up the fork fluid viscosity.
Happy to help if you have any questions.

[k2apache6.0]

There you go, thanks again Oyo for the link.

[ScottDR]

Awesome, thank you Oyo! I had no luck searching. Cheers!

[neb4152]

Performance upgrades are NCY super transmission kit (only the variator and rear driven pulley used), and the suspension mods shown and described. Any questions feel free to ask. All the best for the new year PCX'ers. Keep calm and carry on modding

Just installed my kit today. Still breaking it in. Roller weights? Not so sure about my 13s but it's only day 1. You use the original clutch and bell? Black 1000 rpm spring? Remember those instructions that came with the kit about the clutch pulley angle of rotation? Tried both.
No benefits one over the other for me yet. Tried both briefly. Settled on 45°. Done with mods for a while on my 2013. Exhaust and shocks eventually

[k2apache6.0]

Yeah I used the original (OE) Clutch and bell since I only had about 3k on them at the time.. I tried the NCY 1000rpm spring and didnt like it, any amount of revs and the scoot would move, so the only parts I used were the variator assy and the rear driven face. My scoot has almost 12k on it now so maybe next week I'll put on a new belt and try the NCY clutch pack and bell while I'm at it. As far as the angle thing I didn't mess with it, just put it on as it came in the box. The only thing I did was packed it in moly grease where the parts slide together.
I liked the 13g NCY rollers as do most here, and with a new belt and rollers got much better acceleration and a top speed of 72mph.

[WI_Hedgehog]

Those mirrors are a work of art! The stalks look better with your mod, and the backs--what an improvement! I don't mind the tribal pattern, but the faux bolts suck. The other mods are also very smart, the mirrors are simply over the top due to your redesign! Awesome job!

[k2apache6.0]

Thank you!

[WhiteNoise]

K2 Rocks!! Yes, I said it Again

[ScottDR]

K2, I have a question for you. I'm considering doing the YSS front springs and changing fork oil to 20W from the OE 10W. That way the springs will hold up my North American girth more AND be better dampened.

Second, looking at YSS Z series XL. As long as they bolt right on to my '13 I think the combo would be great and forego the need for rebound/compression adjusters.

Thoughts?

Thanks all!

[k2apache6.0]

The springs will definately help, the Z series XL shocks have worked well for Glen on his scooter and yes its a straight swap.

[ScottDR]

Much appreciated. Cheers!

[k2apache6.0]

Heres a look at the KOSO mini tach install

[OldGuywhoTinkers]

Black swing arm cover, custom oil fill cap, and freshly installed YSS G-Plus rear shocks. Also a good view of custom undertail/fender eliminator. License plate frame has built in LED lights

Question: Have you replaced the rear drum brake with a disk ? Or am I mistaken ?

[k2apache6.0]

Black swing arm cover, custom oil fill cap, and freshly installed YSS G-Plus rear shocks. Also a good view of custom undertail/fender eliminator. License plate frame has built in LED lights

Question: Have you replaced the rear drum brake with a disk ? Or am I mistaken ?

No, just the stock drum brake

[Mel46]

k2apache6.0,

I have done some upgrades on my bike, as you know, but I have not done anything with the brakes because that is an area that I do not feel confident to touch. I bought replacement front pads for my wife's bike but have not installed them yet. I will probably have the shop put them on when I bring it in to have the rear brake shoes replaced and the brake fluid changed.

My question for you is, if I want the shop to use DOT 4 now instead of the original (I think DOT 3), do they need to change the lines to metal or something that can handle the new stuff, or are the original lines still acceptable?

[k2apache6.0]

Mel said:
"My question for you is, if I want the shop to use DOT 4 now instead of the original (I think DOT 3), do they need to change the lines to metal or something that can handle the new stuff, or are the original lines still acceptable?"

Mel, I have gone beyond that mod on a previous machine, Yamaha FJ-1200. I had no problems just bleeding it all through. I have to say though, all my lines were in good condition and the caliper seals had been changed about a year prior to doing the job. Anyway I had no problems whatsover with the switchover to DOT 5!..YES not even DOT 4, but DOT 5 which is hardly similar to DOT 3 at all, being silicone based (It wont strip paint and is very high temp resistant). So with that said you will almost assuredly have no problems going from DOT 3 to DOT 4 at all. No need to cahnge anything, Just bleed it through until you only have clean fluid coming out.

[Mel46]

Thanks!! I want my bikes to be as safe as they can be.