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yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 12:22 am
by adam1711
hallo everyone
i install yuminashi kit 164cc all the kit parts and i want to know how km i need to break in ? i did the 100 km what i need to do . and some people say to me you need to run 100km its enough and some body else tell me 1000 km you have to run , i send email to yuminashi factory and daniel is very good personal is tell me : i think is 500 km you need to run but 100 km you have ride slawly And play with the throttle gas . Now I'm at 500 Km and want to know if i can Open the throttle and finally heard the engine alive and kicking lol
what do you think and the And heard your experiences with kits
thanks everybody good day !!!
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:27 am
by lolofigo
Too late now. When new you should've warm it up and ride with full throttle acceleration and slow downs for first 80 km then change oil and done. Ride like you stole it for a day and change oil and it will be broken in.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 2:26 am
by adam1711
lolofigo wrote:Too late now. When new you should've warm it up and ride with full throttle acceleration and slow downs for first 80 km then change oil and done. Ride like you stole it for a day and change oil and it will be broken in.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Dude you do not understand me at all, or I did not explain myself well, I did everything by the book up to 100 km traveled calm and not more than 70 kmh played with the throttle gas to fit all the pieces of the cylinder, my question is how many kilometers I should have done to prevent the yuminashi? 500, or 1000 km. And I have a very important question cylinder yuminashi is nikasil or aluminium ?
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 2:30 am
by Oyabun
The Yumi cylinder is has a steel sleeve.
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 8:23 am
by clemence
I usually break in like this:
- warm up the engine EVERY TIME I start the engine for at least 30 seconds but no more than 60. I just let it idling
- first 50km: full WOT sprint like mad in any occasions throughout the rev range (not speed) no more than 10 seconds if possible. Always "cycle" between full WOT and light cruising (very small throttle opening). Empty steep highway is my favourite spot. Pay extra effort to get full WOT in 5000-8000 RPM. That's where the rings expand the most for standard PCX/Vario150. Max torque RPM is where the max. BMEP.
- ALWAYS let it idle for about 10 seconds before shutting the engine off (turn off the idling stop).
- ride normal for the next 50km and change the oil.
- Up to 10.000km I always use OEM oil spec. Beyond that point, I use full "good" synthetic 10W-40. Normal temp in my place is between 28C - 34C. I used to use the 100% mineral oil with the least additives, but it's harder to find pure mineral oil these days.
Nikasil is less sensitive to bad/good break-in than cast iron cylinder due to much harder cylinder. In cast iron sleeve, the initial rough cross hatch pattern wear down much faster.
- Clemence
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 8:52 am
by 87112
Been thinking of doing this kit, how do you like it so far? Read some reviews about bad customer service. Not too worried about how fast it is at this point.
Is this the one you got?
http://www.yuminashi.eu/164cc-light-bor ... -125-head/
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 9:39 am
by homie
adam1711 wrote:Now I'm at 500 Km and want to know if i can Open the throttle and finally heard the engine alive and kicking lol what do you think
First congratulations on the new kit and your ability to install it. I wish you could have come across this read earlier as it might have given you some reason to ignore user manual break in instruction. Perhaps some day when you go back in and look at the piston and how it looks under the rings you might re-think the break in period procedure.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 12:16 am
by adam1711
yes but i buy for pcx v1 no esp engine so have a diffrence beetwen little price its no metter only in models
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 12:21 am
by adam1711
homie wrote:adam1711 wrote:Now I'm at 500 Km and want to know if i can Open the throttle and finally heard the engine alive and kicking lol what do you think
First congratulations on the new kit and your ability to install it. I wish you could have come across this read earlier as it might have given you some reason to ignore user manual break in instruction. Perhaps some day when you go back in and look at the piston and how it looks under the rings you might re-think the break in period procedure.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Hey dude, I read this article before I brought my post. And all I've been through the whole issue of running the engines just simply not encountered in operating the engine of yuminashi even the Honda grom article brought so true !!
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 4:32 am
by adam1711
adam1711 wrote:
yes but i buy for pcx v1 no esp engine so have a diffrence beetwen little price its no metter only in models
Until now goes great, I had already reached 500 km and scooter just sounds great. I have variator and exhaust and variator clutch bell of malossi , when i install the kit 164cc i replace my v-belt malossi to yuminashi . I buy today variator of yuminashi to see the difference, I believe variator of yuminashi much better in terms of openings and closings.
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 4:41 am
by clemence
EDIT:
I usually break in like this:
- warm up the engine EVERY TIME I start the engine for at least 30 seconds but no more than 60. I just let it idling
- first 50km: full WOT sprint like mad in any occasions throughout the rev range (not speed) no more than 10 seconds if possible. Always "cycle" between full WOT and light cruising (very small throttle opening). Empty steep highway is my favourite spot. Pay extra effort to get full WOT in 5000-8000 RPM. That's where the rings expand the most for standard PCX/Vario150. Max torque RPM is where the max. BMEP. Max torque RPM usually gets lower with bigger displacement (when everything else such valve, throttle body, etc...constant]
- ALWAYS let it idle for about 10 seconds before shutting the engine off (turn off the idling stop).
- ride normal for the next 50km and change the oil.
- Up to 10.000km I always use OEM oil spec. Beyond that point, I use full "good" synthetic 10W-40. Normal temp in my place is between 28C - 34C. I used to use the 100% mineral oil with the least additives, but it's harder to find pure mineral oil these days [For <10.000kmbreak-in period].
- You can go back to use "idle stop" mode beyond 100km.
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 2:45 am
by JaeMelo
Oyabun wrote:The Yumi cylinder is has a steel sleeve.
cast iron*
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 5:45 am
by clemence
Yup, it's unlikely made from steel. Steel will be sticky to the rings/piston
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 10:38 am
by adam1711
clemence wrote:Yup, it's unlikely made from steel. Steel will be sticky to the rings/piston
so its better from nikasil or bad ?
i see in ebay selling there 170cc for pcx 125 and the price is low from yuminashi and is nikasil aluminium ...
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 11:00 am
by clemence
Almost all production engines are using cast iron because it's cost effective, versatile, very easy to machine, has all the needed qualities for road uses especially the anti galling properties. Nodular cast iron is one of the best material for cylinder sleeve for weekend warrior roadster.
Nikasil is definitely harder and last so much longer in 4 stroke engines but has one disadvantage if plated directly over aluminum cylinder block: too good heat transfer in low RPM and you can't bore it. The low RPM thermal efficiency of aluminum is lower than cast iron.
Some cars use steel sleeve combined with cast iron/special coated rings. My old 1800cc diesel Chevy also used replaceable steel liner.
- Clemence
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 1:10 am
by BPT7594
My friend got 25000km out of a Yuminashi sleeve and still going strong. The problem is proper maintenance. No nikasil can save your ass if you starve the engine from oil. Learn from the precedents, like Vlad. He had to install an oil breather hose in place of the oil dipstick to lower the crankcase pressure when he went big bore. I strongly advise doing that also to your big bore engine. And I have seen some "nikasil" sleeve from Taiwan that I can scratch off the plating with a razor so no Nikasil for me. I'm familiar with Yuminashi's sleeve material, it's in the same league as those I can find in my location, it's not the same, because I am not a metallurgist but I can say that Yuminashi's material can survive OK, provided that you CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL REGULARLY.
I don't know what you guys do but I change my oil regularly especially on big bore engines. Never had a problem with it.
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 1:13 am
by BPT7594
adam1711 wrote:hallo everyone
i install yuminashi kit 164cc all the kit parts and i want to know how km i need to break in ? i did the 100 km what i need to do . and some people say to me you need to run 100km its enough and some body else tell me 1000 km you have to run , i send email to yuminashi factory and daniel is very good personal is tell me : i think is 500 km you need to run but 100 km you have ride slawly And play with the throttle gas . Now I'm at 500 Km and want to know if i can Open the throttle and finally heard the engine alive and kicking lol
what do you think and the And heard your experiences with kits
thanks everybody good day !!!
About breaking in, I think slowly is a bit too much babying. Just run the bike like you would run everyday normally and use good oil. Don't even think about W30 oil. Use W40 or even W50 on these big bore engines.
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 1:15 am
by BPT7594
I may sound like a Yuminashi fanatic but I have never gotten any issue with bad customer service, only slow shipping time on a couple occasions, even then the guy handling communication is still OK and honest.
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 1:31 am
by clemence
BPT7594 wrote:My friend got 25000km out of a Yuminashi sleeve and still going strong. The problem is proper maintenance. No nikasil can save your ass if you starve the engine from oil. Learn from the precedents, like Vlad. He had to install an oil breather hose in place of the oil dipstick to lower the crankcase pressure when he went big bore. I strongly advise doing that also to your big bore engine. And I have seen some "nikasil" sleeve from Taiwan that I can scratch off the plating with a razor so no Nikasil for me. I'm familiar with Yuminashi's sleeve material, it's in the same league as those I can find in my location, it's not the same, because I am not a metallurgist but I can say that Yuminashi's material can survive OK, provided that you CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL REGULARLY.
I don't know what you guys do but I change my oil regularly especially on big bore engines. Never had a problem with it.
Of course! Any reasons not to?
FYI, most japanese big four's (H-Y-S-K) cast iron sleeves are so durable for more than ten years with normal use. With regular oil change!
Re: yuminashi 164cc kit break in !
Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 1:32 am
by clemence
deleted: double post