The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Can anyone point me to the charging capacity of our Forza's? I would like to know if I could run my GPS and heated vest without any problems.
Thank you

Not got one, but part of the Forza 300 reviews state 'There's a 12V power socket too, for your heated jackets, satnavs and whatnot' - the PCX has a 5A fuse but not sure what the Forza is rated at - power = 12v x fuse rating in amps (max)

Ole wrote:Can anyone point me to the charging capacity of our Forza's? I would like to know if I could run my GPS and heated vest without any problems.
Thank you

The accessory socket is located in the Left storage compartment, and is fused a meager 5A, that is 60W.
The alternator itself is rated 380W@5000rpm.

I'd put an Amp-meter to that system to see what it gives with what you have in mind as add-ons.
(personally I wouldn't go over 50W -I have seen too many toasted-from-overload stators).

Then 50W taken from the access. socket is its limit, so...
Me, I'd feed from fuse E, fusebox B (under the easily removable right side glovebox cover, then
check what the Amp-meter shows with everything at work.

Oh, that fuse E is rated 15A. It feeds many different 'sporadic-use' different circuits, so make sure to
activate ALL of those (brake lights, horn, flashers) when checking total demand with an A-meter (in-
line with that fuse's ouput wire - Bk/O.

Total current demand then should not exceed 75% of fuse capacity imo.

Good advice.

Just another thing that might help : an easy way to mesure a given fuse's current draw : remove
that fuse, and fit the A-meter prongs in its place.

Good to know the alternator puts out 380 watts. Thank you. My Widder vest draws 45 watts at full heat. I ran a fused SAE plug direct to the battery. I close the seat and just hang it out near my left thigh. Works out great I just didn't want to discharge my battery.

45W should be ok, after all Honda has designed it with a 60W-capable access. socket.
What would be really interesting is : how is the whole system is behaving @ full load, at different rpm's.
This, only an A-meter can tell. I plan to check that as soon as I can, out of curiosity.

On most of my past (all japanese) bikes, the A-meter would go DOWN to around -10A when first
turning the main switch ON...then to near ZERO amp (no gain,no loss of charge) at idle...then to
about +10A @4-5000rpm. This, with all lights on.

I've had Symtec hand warmers mounted for a couple of years now (36w) with no trouble at all. I have a voltmeter usb type socket in the accessory plug and do not see any change in voltage turned on or off. On cold days I even warm thee grips for a couple of minutes while gearing up before starting and have no trouble starting with the load on. The minimal extra load from the GPS should be no problem at all.

[quote="aguim"]45W should be ok, after all Honda has designed it with a 60W-capable access. socket.
What would be really interesting is : how is the whole system is behaving @ full load, at different rpm's.
This, only an A-meter can tell. I plan to check that as soon as I can, out of curiosity.

On most of my past (all japanese) bikes, the A-meter would go DOWN to around -10A when first
turning the main switch ON...then to near ZERO amp (no gain,no loss of charge) at idle...then to
about +3A @ 4000rpm, with all lights on.

THIS IS AN EDIT OF A PREVIOUS POST in which i wrongly assumed a +10Amps charging rate @ 5Krpm.

Cover on 12 volt plug says 24W max. (12V 2A)... See pic
aguim, yours says 5A?

aguim wrote:The accessory socket is located in the Left storage compartment, and is fused a meager 5A,

Fast forwards a few years and for 2013 Honda bumped the engine size up from 125 cc to 150 cc and called it a PCX150. The new engine is based on Honda’s eSP (Enhanced Smart Power) design. Honda does still make the PCX125 but not for our market in the USA, they are exported to select countries that have license requirements that make the 125 engine the best option. Honda then went back to the drawing board. They pumped out enough 2013 PCX150 models to last through 2014 – skipping the 2014 model run all together. Why would Honda do that? Because Honda knew they could improve the model even more and didn’t want to stop with just throwing a larger engine in the PCX.

E. Foster Salsbury wrote:Cover on 12 volt plug says 24W max. (12V 2A)... See pic
aguim, yours says 5A?

aguim wrote:The accessory socket is located in the Left storage compartment, and is fused a meager 5A,

The accessory socket is wired to fuse "F", fusebox "B", rated 5A. I use it only for phone charging (about
1.5A), had not noticed that Honda recommends a 2.4A max. utilisation. Think of it, all other fuses also
never reach their 'calculated' maximum capacity...for an obvious reason.

The fuse may be a 'T', 'F' or other in that it's slow or fast blow - but the 2A rating may also be wire or contact rating (not all the link to the battery may be able to withstand 4-5A continuous. Just guessing, as it may be Honda being overly caustious again on the label.

iceman wrote:The fuse may be a 'T', 'F' or other in that it's slow or fast blow - but the 2A rating may also be wire or contact rating (not all the link to the battery may be able to withstand 4-5A continuous. Just guessing, as it may be Honda being overly caustious again on the label.

The NSS300 ABS has 3 different fuseboxes, A,B,C, and a total of 14 different fuses. One
messy diagram. I can remember bikes with much simpler arrangements...

"F" is only an identification letter (they are labeled A to M on the Diagram).

aguim wrote:

iceman wrote:The fuse may be a 'T', 'F' or other in that it's slow or fast blow - but the 2A rating may also be wire or contact rating (not all the link to the battery may be able to withstand 4-5A continuous. Just guessing, as it may be Honda being overly caustious again on the label.

The NSS300 ABS has 3 different fuseboxes, A,B,C, and a total of 14 different fuses. One
messy diagram. I can remember bikes with much simpler arrangements...
"F" is only an identification letter (they are labeled A to M on the Diagram).

No, I meant fuse labelling and rating - probably most if not all fuses on bikes or cars are similar to 'T' or slow/timed rather than 'F' which is fast blow i.e current limit reached or exceeded and the 'F' style fuse blows quickly, whereas 'T' does not blow unless stressed for longer periods. Just wondering why there is a 2A label for a 5A fuse supply.

2A label to try and stop people from plugging all their electric clothing AND a GPS in. But people can't read anyway or are old like me and can't see.