The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

I wanted to know anyone who may have tried this oil. Dozens of motorcycle forums for all kinds of bikes swear by this oil. In fact this is not even marketed as an automobile oil. I myself use it on my Honda ST1300 and have been very happy with it.
I wanted to know anyone who may used it on pcx and get their viewpoints. This oil is very inexpensive too - about $17 for a gallon from Amazon subscribe and save.

Yes its a great oil.. I think Honda recommends 10w-30.. Shell Rotella is designed for a diesel engine and has significantly better lubricating qualities and sheer resistance than a standard grade automobile engine oil. It should meet SJ SAE standard per the book. Many do not know that diesel engine oils have more lubricating additives like moly and other ingredients that slip my mind right now. But they tend to kill catalytic converters. Sooo if your bike does not have a catalytic converter you are good to go.. and that's why they are not recommended for cars. Some oils however have an additive package suitable for both. But in the end you are splitting hairs.. It really doesn't matter what oil you use just so it is a good quality and meets the SJ requirement. I have never yet ever seen an engine failure due to the brand of oil used.. Just keep it clean, and if you store it outside change it more frequently as condensation in the crankcase will create hydrochloric acid over time.

I believe the PCX has a CAT in the exhaust! There's tons of great fully synth 4-stroke motorcycle oils that are dirt cheap - why use an oil destined for a diesel engine (we're petrol) and is known to kill Catalytic convertors?

I have been using T6 in my PCX. I believe it is rated for motorcycles. I don't know anything about its effect on the CC. Maybe there is some additive that can be mixed in with the oil to counteract any CC killing properties.

Actually, T6 is a dual-rated oil, meaning it meets both diesel and petrol engine requirements.

There's nothing in there that will damage catalytic converters any more than a petrol-only API SM-rated oil.

The advantages to using a dual-rated oil are better detergents, better anti-wear additives, and better shear resistance. Basically, better all-around engine protection. As a bonus, the 5W-40 will provide better cold and hot protection, and you should see better gas mileage over a 10W-30.

As a Group III "synthetic", $17/gal is a decent price. At that price, there's no reason not to use it.

I have used Shell Rotella 5w40 syn for years. I've used it in my 8yr old Kohler powered mower, various power equipment and motorcycles ect. I have never had a problem. If you go on KLR650.net you will find that a lot of riders use this oil. Sopposedly there is no moly in the oil, which could cause wet clutch slippage. You can also get it at Walmart a little cheaper by the gallon.

Eiron wrote:Actually, T6 is a dual-rated oil, meaning it meets both diesel and petrol engine requirements.
There's nothing in there that will damage catalytic converters any more than a petrol-only API SM-rated oil.
The advantages to using a dual-rated oil are better detergents, better anti-wear additives, and better shear resistance. Basically, better all-around engine protection. As a bonus, the 5W-40 will provide better cold and hot protection, and you should see better gas mileage over a 10W-30.
As a Group III "synthetic", $17/gal is a decent price. At that price, there's no reason not to use it.

That's a very good price!, good 4-stroke fully synth here is 3 times the price.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorc ... e-oil-1ltr

Iceman, it's not "fully synthetic" by European definition, only by North American (legal) definition. It would have to be classified in Europe as "semi-synthetic".

Group III oil is highly-refined (hydroisomerized) petroleum oil which approaches the properties of "true" Group IV (PAO) synthetics. Now, Shell's XHVI Group III base oil (which is what T6 is made from) is probably the best Group III available, & would definitely be my choice if choosing a Group III product. (It was my favorite gear oil in my 1990 Saab 900 here in Colorado; recommended gear oil was 10W-30.) And at $17USD/gal, it's a good value.

Anything in Europe labeled as full syn should be true Group IV, with maybe a bit of either Group V (esters) or Group III for additive pack solubility. Group V would keep it 100% syn, but I think manufacturers are allowed to mix in some percentage (up to 30%?) of less expensive Group III & still legally claim it as full syn. That chemistry's going to make the price higher, as will the nebulous "four stroke" classification. Switch to an ACEA A3/B3/B4 rated full syn car oil & you should be able to spend less money for better protection!

easyrider wrote:... if you store it outside change it more frequently as condensation in the crankcase will create hydrochloric acid over time.

This is another benefit of dual-rated oils that I neglected to mention - they're typically "over-based" (compared to petrol-only oils) to neutralize the extra acids created by diesel engines. That means you should never have to worry about exhausting the Total Base Number (TBN) between changes, even if you choose to extend drain intervals.

The pcx would be happy with a good semi-synth oil, so a highly rated fully synth from any manufacturer of note is like a gourmet meal