Removing/Changing spark plug on a PCX 150

[JonW]

I'm having a devil of a time getting the spark plug out to replace it with a new one.

I've removed the access door and pulled off the spark plug cable. Problem #1 is the that angle of the plug relative to the door is such that it is difficult to get a plug socket on it, and #2 when unscrewing the plug the back of the socket/wrench hits the inside surface of the frame making it impossible to pull the plug out.

I've screwed the plug back in and kept it loose, removing the socket and attempted to hand un-screw it but I can't get my fingers in there

Short of removing a bunch of body panels to get better access, are there any hints or tricks to this you can tell me?

Also, once I do have it removed and will put a new one in I'm planning on using a little anti-seize on the threads. Any thoughts on that?

The way things are going with this now I'm thinking I'm going to have to wait until the weather is nicer and I remove the body panels to check the valve clearance to also change the plug.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[you you]

I'm having a devil of a time getting the spark plug out to replace it with a new one.

I've removed the access door and pulled off the spark plug cable. Problem #1 is the that angle of the plug relative to the door is such that it is difficult to get a plug socket on it, and #2 when unscrewing the plug the back of the socket/wrench hits the inside surface of the frame making it impossible to pull the plug out.

I've screwed the plug back in and kept it loose, removing the socket and attempted to hand un-screw it but I can't get my fingers in there

Short of removing a bunch of body panels to get better access, are there any hints or tricks to this you can tell me?

Also, once I do have it removed and will put a new one in I'm planning on using a little anti-seize on the threads. Any thoughts on that?

The way things are going with this now I'm thinking I'm going to have to wait until the weather is nicer and I remove the body panels to check the valve clearance to also change the plug.

Thanks in advance for your help.

I wouldn't put anything on the threads

[JonW]

I wouldn't put anything on the threads

Why?

It's pretty standard procedure with aluminum engine blocks where the metal of the block is different than the metal of the plug. It makes removing the plug later much easier and without ruining the threads in the engine block.

Anti-sieze usually requires a little more torque when initially tightening down the plug to compress the washer, since it has a very small lubricating effect when new.

Have used this all the time in my Miatas without any problems.

[j.d.b.]

I wouldn't put anything on the threads

Why?

It's pretty standard procedure with aluminum engine blocks where the metal of the block is different than the metal of the plug. It makes removing the plug later much easier and without ruining the threads in the engine block.

Anti-sieze usually requires a little more torque when initially tightening down the plug to compress the washer, since it has a very small lubricating effect when new.

Have used this all the time in my Miatas without any problems.

I don't know who's using A/S on their spark plug threads as "standard procedure", but it's not any of the three large U S motor companies I've worked at over the last thirty or so years. If you are having trouble removing the plugs, you are likely over-torquing them or leaving them in the head far too long.
Please don't use anything but cleanliness on the plugs. Save the A/S for your exhaust bolts.

[easyrider]

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... iseize.php

[j.d.b.]

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... iseize.php

I stand corrected. there IS a company recommending it. I still don't use or recommend it, however.
BTW: stay away from Champion plugs.

[Mel46]

You should be able to use an extension on the ratchet to make unscrewing easier. Once the spark plug is loose, there is a 'spider' (my tree for it) that you can use to grab the head of the spark plug and pull it out far enough for you to grab it. If you are using a spark plug socket, most come with a rubber part inside that fits the plug snug enough that you can pull the plug all the way out after unscrewing it. If you don't have that, improvise.

[JonW]

You should be able to use an extension on the ratchet to make unscrewing easier. Once the spark plug is loose, there is a 'spider' (my tree for it) that you can use to grab the head of the spark plug and pull it out far enough for you to grab it. If you are using a spark plug socket, most come with a rubber part inside that fits the plug snug enough that you can pull the plug all the way out after unscrewing it. If you don't have that, improvise.

I know what you mean by the spider retractor - I have one of those also.

I have a socket with a rubber grab ring on an extension with a universal joint type dohicky that allows off-center rotation of the socket. I can get the socket on the plug and then loosen it. At the end of the threads when the plug is able to be pulled out the back of the socket is hitting the frame. In order for me to remove the socket (because of the frame interference) I have to screw the plug back in. Even though I've left it loose, after pulling off the socket I can't get my fingers in there to try to back the plug out by hand.

Maybe I've got big hands but I'm sure others must have run into this. Seems quite poorly designed that there is no straight avenue to the plug...

[easyrider]

Get 6 inch piece of 1/4 inside dia rubber fuel line ..loosen with your socket then push fuel line onto end of plug then rotate and when free just pull out plug.

[JonW]

Get 6 inch piece of 1/4 inside dia rubber fuel line ..loosen with your socket then push fuel line onto end of plug then rotate and when free just pull out plug.

Good idea! I'll give it a try after the impending snow storm (here in New England)...

[Mel46]

Snow?? It has hit 80 here already. Tomorrow a group of us will be riding for a few hours because it is going to be in the 70s and sun shine. Snow is NOT our friend down here. We are not equipped for it. Pollen is our enemy. We are preparing for the big pollen dump, probably within a week of now. Then the entire state will turn yellow-greren. Ugh!

[easyrider]

We just about finished with our pollen drop . (I Hope)It was bad this year and heading your way I suppose.. Worst I ever seen it. I am north of Tampa, Florida.. Get ready ..My brother lives in Dallas , Georgia and is getting ready for it too.

[Mel46]

Dallas is only a short ride from our house... 20 miles I think. We have gone on rides to and around that area, and then up to Rome, Georgia....and from there off to the mountains. Chattanooga isn't really that far away either, if you think about rides. I think it is about 75 miles.
It looks like the pollen count has started to climb big time, so that stuff will probably hit us within days, not weeks. UGH! Imagine everything turning the ugliest green-yellow, even inside the house. That stuff sneaks into the house and takes months to clean out of the cracks and corners.

[easyrider]

I would love to ride the blue ridge.. At 30 -35 mpg would be a nice cruising speed and relaxing to see the scenic vistas without someone charging up your ass. I'm sure there will be some but the cutouts would help. On my bucket list. Just don't know if I could tow an RV and the bike together with my vehicle.

[JonW]

I've driven the entire BRP and Skyline Drive on a Honda CX500, a Miata, and with my CX5 towing my teardrop trailer. It's a wonderful road but I don't think I'd like to try the whole thing on a PCX. Often very windy, quickly changing weather, and lots of ups and downs.

Day trips on short sections would be nice though...

[Mel46]

We have some roads here in Georgia, up in the mountains, that are like the Dragon's Tail in Tennessee. We call it the mini-Dragon's Tail. It has the most turns of any roads in Georgia. It is fun and there are a lot of motorcycle and scooter riders who go up there on the weekends just to ride that road. There is even a motorcycle shop up there. It has new and used bikes, including some larger scooters, plus a small deli. When we ride in the mountains that is one of the places we go to. The whole area up there is beautiful, in the Spring and in the Fall especially. Riding in the mountains, even on straight roads, is so peaceful and beautiful on a PCX. The bike is so quiet and peaceful. Everyone should ride in the mountains at least once.

[easyrider]

You certainly do have some nice twisty roads in Georgia. I go up to Hiawassee and Helen quite frequently and always drive the Blue Ridge.Just haven't done it on my PCX.. Would like to as the BRP is totally designed for slow cruising and scenic beauty. I think speed limit max is 30 mph and that would be a slow but perfect cadence for the PCX and with the occasional blast of acceleration down a long hill with some open road would just be icing on the cake. Short day trips would be nice , not sure about doing the whole anchilotta..

[you you]

You certainly do have some nice twisty roads in Georgia. I go up to Hiawassee and Helen quite frequently and always drive the Blue Ridge.Just haven't done it on my PCX.. Would like to as the BRP is totally designed for slow cruising and scenic beauty. I think speed limit max is 30 mph and that would be a slow but perfect cadence for the PCX and with the occasional blast of acceleration down a long hill with some open road would just be icing on the cake. Short day trips would be nice , not sure about doing the whole anchilotta..

Do you mean "the whole enchilada"?

[easyrider]

Potato ..Potadoe..All the same to me !!

[JonW]

Looks like auto-correct at work...