The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hi my yuminashi essential kit just arrived and I'm going to put it in over the weekend. Anyone has any advice on braking in procedure? Was thinking about taking it easy for 500 miles and changing oil after but will it be enough?
Cheers

After reassembling, get yourself a can of conventional oil. 0.8 litre of engine oil.
Put the engine on the centre stand, turn it on and let it idle for 15 minutes or 10, to get it completely warm.
Take it outside, run the shit out of it. Really really hard.
Ride it like that for 30km. Go home, change new oil. I recommend using 0.9 litre of engine oil.
Breaking in finished.
Cheers.

Sounds bit extreme. I remember breaking in rc nitro engine and there supposed to be one tank of fuel just used idling. Then getting it to the working temperature varying the throttle then cooling off. I know that taking it too easy while breaking in is not good for the engine and makes it loose performance later on but still your method sounds extreme.

Yeah it might seems a bit extreme.
If you want to take it easy, just ride it like you would a normal bike without the babying associated with the breaking in mental way of thinking.
I suggest after assembling the engine, you ride it like normal for 300km, with conventional oil like the one Honda dealer's selling.
Then change the oil, again I recommend using 0.9l of good quality oil, conventional is still ok, I like full synthetic oil, but it's up to you.
One thing you should do is order the 1.6 bar cap from yuminashi, and get yourself a can of pure antifreeze, the stuff that you have to mix with water.
Then use a mixture of water (if you're scared you can use distilled water) and antifreeze. I recommend using 8 parts water and 2 parts antifreeze. The more water % in your coolant the better cooling ability. If you live in cold climate and the temperature gets below 0 degree c, you should use a mixture of 5 5.
The Yuminashi kit that uses the stock head tends to run hotter than normal, since stock head = small exhaust valve and really high compression ratio. I really recommend using a coolant with mixture of 8 or even 9 parts water.
Or just run distilled water. But pure water should go with a higher pressure cap.
Cheers.

I have done some research on Internet and went for the extreme braking in method. Done about 20 miles with wot akceletations and slow downs with closed throttle. Changed oil afterwards. Hope it will be OK now.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
this is a very good article supporting "hard" running in techniques

Yeah chainsaw. That's the one I've read. Makes sense to me. I had a good look at my old 125 piston and it has carbon deposits below two top rings which indicates that they weren't broken in completely as it was explained in the article. For now I'm just enjoying my big bore upgrade and I love the growl of 31mm throttle body. It's like angry chiwawa.

I have a 34mm throttle body which is originally a Forza 300 throttle body.
If you think the 31mm's growl is angry, you should try the 34mm, remove the air filter and let her rip.
Glad you're having fun.
Did the kit include a camshaft?

And which coolant are you using? Stock honda?

Everything was in the kit. 31mm throttle body bigger injector, manifold' camshaft, double, springs piston and cylinder. All for £ 300 that's price of sports exhaust from webike. Just bought some generic concentrate antifreeze and mixed with water 1 to 2 proportion. It's blue in colour original was green.

Then you're good to go. I don't know that Yuminashi still has camshaft to sell within complete kits but if they have then good for you. The camshaft really makes a difference. Do you have difficulty starting your engine in cold morning?

You can't order the camshaft on it's own only in a kit. It starts Ok it's been around 5 -6 C overnight but I keep bike in the garage don't know how much difference it makes. Its idling Ok maybe bit nervous with sport camshaft but I've set valve clearance to stock and there is clicking noise so maybe I go for that extreme set up 0.5 and 0.8

Idling is a bit broken, but I love that broken sound. Lumpy, but music to my ears.
I'm doing a carburetor conversion job tomorrow, I don't like the characteristics of fuel injection anymore, so carburetor it is.
Tune in for pictures

Little update on my braking in. I've done about 110 miles (one tank of fuel) after the first 20 odd mile oil change when I drained black and glittery stuff. I've put 10w30 castrol bike oil and it still looks fresh. I think that ride like you stole it braking in method is working. Gonna change valve clearance to advised by Reggy 0.5 and 0.8 as standard Honda gives ticking noise.

lolofigo wrote:Little update on my braking in. I've done about 110 miles (one tank of fuel) after the first 20 odd mile oil change when I drained black and glittery stuff. I've put 10w30 castrol bike oil and it still looks fresh. I think that ride like you stole it braking in method is working. Gonna change valve clearance to advised by Reggy 0.5 and 0.8 as standard Honda gives ticking noise.

0.05 and 0.08. 0.5 and 0.8 will kill your engine haha.

Hi lolofigo, is your 2012 bike an esp model?

Looking at the 'Essentials Kit' it's just for the first generation PCX?

No its last non esp model. There is no essential kit for esp engine from yuminashi unless led model has same engine. From description on yuminashi website cylinder and piston look like the same part. Best to ask yuminashi on Facebook.

i'm going to buy the 164 kit for my PCX also i was wondering they now have the 175cc piston also ? can i use it with the 164 kit ? and the top speed will be 10 or 15km higher ?

Not sure about 175cc kit I think it's with different crankshaft. Big bore kit won't change top speed. You will need different variator and gears in gearbox for better top speed. Big bore kit will give you much better acceleration and power to push the bike to the top speed.

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can you reach nearly 150km like yuminashi test video xD ?