nedla wrote:thank you Oyabun and BPT, noted no need to spray anything on the copper gasket..
What can i find torque values in tightening my Click 125i?
So for instance i already have this set up(http://www.yuminashi.eu/164cc-essential ... click125i/), what is your guess of the value in idle, 2,000, 5,000, 8,000 range? Because as of what i've learned here in my stock set up, its always at 14.7 right?
If your scooter has idling stop (meaning if you stop and let the engine idle for a few seconds it turns itself off, and when you twist the throttle it turns on again), the idle rpm must be about 1700 rpm for it to work.
I've sent you the service manual with english translation to help a little. It's not always at 14.7, the ECU tries to keep it at 14.7, but you can only know the real AFR with a wideband Oxygen sensor and reading tools, which costs a lot.
And the idling rpm does not affect the AFR, as fas as I know.
nedla wrote:thank you Oyabun and BPT, noted no need to spray anything on the copper gasket..
What can i find torque values in tightening my Click 125i?
So for instance i already have this set up(http://www.yuminashi.eu/164cc-essential ... click125i/), what is your guess of the value in idle, 2,000, 5,000, 8,000 range? Because as of what i've learned here in my stock set up, its always at 14.7 right?
The set you have linked does not have a fuel computer, so nothing needed to be changed.
It comes however with an upgraded fuel injector, which I assume is sized correctly. In this case the engine will operate as before - controlling the fuel mix to 14.7 when below 80% throttle and warmed up otherwise injecting for the predermined duration each cycle - so if the injector is right providing the correct amount of fuel.
That kit is plug and play ready.
Putting my engine in this week if the parts arrive soon enough. It's currently exam season for me but really cannot focus on it with performance parts sitting right next to me.
thanks Oyabun, BPT
my confidence and understanding is increasing.. I drive it daily to bring my 2 kids to school, so 3 passengers, me 160lbs, daughter 90lbs and son 46lbs and its ok for now, a total of 13km back and forth. Milage is 43km/L using RON95..
what would the power be when it is with the 164 kit, only i'll know soon
Like BPT still waiting for my Inertia and Torque Control..
From my experience the power of my stock Click is way better than my Suzuki 125 Hayate 2007 model
The 14.7 afr ratio is actually great -or as a matter of fact being the least pollutant it is rather the smallest bad - for our planet - and manufacturers come only after this. ;-)
I'll get back to you with more info on the further sensors.
Unfortunately I have no access to technical information on the click or air blade. However the Grom/MSX is also
MAP sensor, and it 's running great without it.
nedla wrote:14.7 is good for fuel efficiency for the 164 kit but will it affect performance at WOT? At WOT will the AFR be 12.8?
On the stock ECU WOT is operating around 13.0 or 13.2. I trust that Yuminashi has been able set up this kit properly - so the bbk upgrade is operating on the rich side also. Running at 12.8 would give approx 5-8% more power at a cost of roughly 15% more consumption. It is rather important to ensure long term reliability especially in conditions like in South east Asia ( high air temperature, low quality fuel).
nedla wrote:14.7 is good for fuel efficiency for the 164 kit but will it affect performance at WOT? At WOT will the AFR be 12.8?
On the stock ECU WOT is operating around 13.0 or 13.2. I trust that Yuminashi has been able set up this kit properly - so the bbk upgrade is operating on the rich side also. Running at 12.8 would give approx 5-8% more power at a cost of roughly 15% more consumption. It is rather important to ensure long term reliability especially in conditions like in South east Asia ( high air temperature, low quality fuel).
Would you have any idea as how to successfully increase octane rating of fuel?
I only have RON 95, which is very low. . Running too high compression can be a little risky.
About the measurement you ask, yes I will take them for you. Just not having the tools around. Will have to ask the mech.
There are additives which can improve the knock bearing properties of fuels - thus increasing the octane rating.
I have no experience with those however. Thank to some upper forces I can buy decent quality fuel here (RON 95, 98, 100 on the fuel stations and 103 at special request which I have used in the past in my race cars, 91 was discontinued years ago) so I never needed to use them.
In reality the global models like the PCX are designed for the worst case scenarios. I have not found it in the operations manual of the PCX, but I would not be very surprised if it would have a minimum requirement of RON 88 or 91, so even with 95 you'd be on a safe(r) side.
I've been talking to Reggy about valve clearance .05in and .08ex. He says engine will make more power as valves will have a higher lift. So earlier I've reset my valve clearance to .1mm intake and .2mm to ex. Considering stock and takegawa cam are set at .1mm in and .24mm ex, what and how much diff will be there in terms of performance, valve train wear...
I've learned that when tuning an engine. A difference of 0.1mm can make big differences. When Reggy suggest those valve clearance I think he had more performance related reasons than longevity of the valve train. And comfort too. At stock clearance the distance are to wide and ticking happens. Very annoying.
I'm buying some racing valves from Thailand. They're lighter and supposedly less prone to expanding under heat. Must content with stock valves for now and wait.
All done!! Took me a while to assemble it and it didn't go as smooth as I liked. I changed oil, filled coolant but developed a leak at the plastic junction part that's screwed in to the head. Took it off and saw no o- ring! Can't believe I missed that earlier. Anyway I reused the old part ring and she was sweet again. I filled it with coolant and about to start the motor but no response on the starter button...faaaark took me ages like 45min checking all wiring if I've missed something and then I noticed the side stand is down!!!
Once I had that sorted I fired her up. She started no fuss. Idle was good, small throttle inputs were responsive. I took my time bleeding the cooling system while checking what temp the engine settles, it was 87c creeping to 90c idling.
How she went for a ride?
Well, first initial feel was that she had more torque on small throttle inputs. Also it's very rev happy and sounds much more throtier than before..something like civic vtec on wot! It has really good top end power on wot and it's pulling like a train, much better than earlier set up also gathers rapidly more speed. I haven't adjusted the weights set up from earlier engine which were set at 8000rpm but now pulls at 8500rpm wot so definite indication on more power. I'd say 1.5-2hp gain, maybe more but I'm being conservative..
Simply love the result..
I hope that Reggy has made real trial and error testing with these valve clearances, but my common sense tells me to stay away from such drastic setup. I can literally smell burnt valves.
Here's what I think about it. Most aftermarket cams have a 5.5 or 6mm lift. Haven't measured the stock one, but I'd be surprised if it'd have less than 4.5mm. Compare it with the potential gain one could have with 0.1mm extra...
On the other hand, why do we leave valve clearance, or valve lash? If we would not cool them, valves (especially exhaust) would end up being heated to their deformation point or above leading to catastrophic engine failure. So how we cool them? By letting them release heat towards the cooled cylinder head by convection through the valve seat which they are forced to by the valve springs.
As metals (or in fact most materials) heat up, they are expanding. So do the valves used in a hot internal combustion engine. If they would not be seated properly they would eventually overheat. That's why we leave legroom -or valve clearance - so as they heat up and expand they are still free from the camshaft at non-lift parts of the profile enabling them to gompletely seat an cool. If the'yd reach tge cam at all times theyd be slightly open and getting burnt.
Considering the above I would not be setting such so tight clearances when I can expect so minimal positive results in return. At least not on a street machine expected to be a daily rider. A race engine rebuilt or checked after each race trying to extract even the last percent of power might be different...
Yes that's why I left the clearances on the safer side, .1in and .2ex for the same reason of possibly minimal gain with tighter clearance but burned exhaust valve.. At my set up the valve noise is almost audible and no louder with a stock engine ,if not sounds healthier than a tighter gap..
With the dyno..? Hmm maybe I should, I'd be really keen to see what it puts out.
Takegawa kit did just under 5k when I pulled it out so I suppose it's well run in and no need to baby it.
So I guess I'll go stock. 0.1 In and 0.24 Ex then.
The dyno idea is great. And why don't you consider a Bazzaz with autotune Vlad? Would be optimal with it.
My Yuminashi kit did over 6000 km so perhaps break in a little bit. I'll get my hands on the Torque Control vario this morning. I'll take detailed photos for you guys.
. Running too high compression can be a little risky. 
