10g Rollers anyone?

[Branyers]

Installed some 10g rollers in my Daytona variator and the difference from 14g is profound. The bike immediately gets into the powerband and stays there. I do imagine this will affect fuel consumption. Can anyone attest?

The reason I went with the lighter rollers is that the Yuminashi website recommended them. I have yet to do a top speed run, but the bike now sounds so much sportier and quickly reaches 60mph. I have other mods as well, but the displacement is stock, 153cc. Anyone else have good results with the 10g rollers, please chime in!

[Valiant]

It will affect fuel consumption if you normally ride at city speeds of less than 40 mph. It will not have a major effect on fuel economy if you hop on the freeway frequently at 50+ mph.

The 10g rollers are very nice if you do some transmission mods that lengthen the gearing, because that will get your rpms back up. Otherwise, I'd imagine 10g rollers would put your rpms well above the peak power range of 8000-8500 rpms. You might get better results if you're a heavier guy too.

[vamootsman]

I have a set of Dr Pully 10's also that I plan to try soon also. Will report when I do.

[Pcxdemon]

Installed some 10g rollers in my Daytona variator and the difference from 14g is profound. The bike immediately gets into the powerband and stays there. I do imagine this will affect fuel consumption. Can anyone attest?

The reason I went with the lighter rollers is that the Yuminashi website recommended them. I have yet to do a top speed run, but the bike now sounds so much sportier and quickly reaches 60mph. I have other mods as well, but the displacement is stock, 153cc. Anyone else have good results with the 10g rollers, please chime in!

Yes, I've been recommending them for the last 4 years, you all just now managing to catch on and leave earths orbit where as I'm just coming back around Pluto!
Fuel economy will be negligently affected,unless you squirm over a dollar at the pump..

[Urbanfreestyle]

So massive benefits in pulling away from the lights and acelleration and negligable MPG difference!? seems like a win win!!!

[Branyers]

Installed some 10g rollers in my Daytona variator and the difference from 14g is profound. The bike immediately gets into the powerband and stays there. I do imagine this will affect fuel consumption. Can anyone attest?

The reason I went with the lighter rollers is that the Yuminashi website recommended them. I have yet to do a top speed run, but the bike now sounds so much sportier and quickly reaches 60mph. I have other mods as well, but the displacement is stock, 153cc. Anyone else have good results with the 10g rollers, please chime in!

Yes, I've been recommending them for the last 4 years, you all just now managing to catch on and leave earths orbit where as I'm just coming back around Pluto!
Fuel economy will be negligently affected,unless you squirm over a dollar at the pump..

To be fair, I have only owned my PCX for about 9 months. I've been experimenting with the drive components ever since I bought it. The results seen on this website are highly varied, and you see a lot of people trying something new and then switching back to stock. I just wanted to share what has worked the best for me. I think I got lucky with the combination of parts I have selected.

As a side note, I am also using a lighter clutch housing, which alone substantially improved acceleration. Daytona drive belt as well and the Kitaco torque driver greatly helped midrange to top end performance. Running a straight through Yoshi exhaust and a WirusWin filter probably make a negligible difference, but they are nice eye candy.

The end result is explosive power out of the gate and an honest top speed of 75mph on the flats.

[Valiant]

The results will be varied because of individual differences in body weight, cargo, accessories, and location(altitude, temperature, humidity). There is no one-size-fits-all, and I would say that buying a tachometer is definitely worth it.

[Branyers]

I agree, a tachometer helps you gauge the power you're making. I am at 8500-9500 from 1/2 to full throttle. This was not possible with the 14g weights. Acceleration was much more gradual. The only time I saw 8500 was when I was on the highway. The 10g weights put you in the powerband almost immediately.

TBH I don't see the advantage of running 14 or 16g weights other than to conserve on fuel a little bit. If I can speed around town and still get 75mpg I am happy.

For reference, I weigh 165lbs.

[Valiant]

Sounds good, I doubt you could fall below 75 mpg without hauling around another person.

[Valiant]

Nope, not for me!

I went with 10g Dr Pulley Sliders, not rollers .

Got about 8500 rpms on short runs, but I haven't tried the freeways yet. Pulls like the 250cc Honda Nighthawk I rode on my MSF Rider's Course, if not harder. That insane screaming voice in my head is kinda tempting me to try 9g sliders and maybe try kick the pulling rpms up to 9000, which might work well with the bore kit and Yumi camshaft working to kick up the peak power rpm. Might be way more acceleration than what I'd need as a practical matter though .

[Pcxdemon]

Nope, not for me!

I went with 10g Dr Pulley Sliders, not rollers .

Got about 8500 rpms on short runs, but I haven't tried the freeways yet. Pulls like the 250cc Honda Nighthawk I rode on my MSF Rider's Course, if not harder. That insane screaming voice in my head is kinda tempting me to try 9g sliders and maybe try kick the pulling rpms up to 9000, which might work well with the bore kit and Yumi camshaft working to kick up the peak power rpm. Might be way more acceleration than what I'd need as a practical matter though .

Too light and rpm will bounce of the limiter before you reach top end. There is a limit how light you can go, I wouldn't go more than 8200rpm!

[Valiant]

Too light and rpm will bounce of the limiter before you reach top end. There is a limit how light you can go, I wouldn't go more than 8200rpm!

I think it would be quite a chore to try and get pulling rpms up to 9600.

And why 8200? That seems arbitrary given that peak power rpm is at 8500. I was pulling 8800 before, which was why I tried 12g weights with a stiffer spring, but my torque driver caused a pretty big rpm drop, so I had to lighten them again, with the stiffer center spring. Now it almost feels like a sport bike. It certainly tears ass from the stop light .

[Branyers]

Yep, makes a huge difference doesn't it? Pulls and sounds like a twin with the 10g rollers. I am still getting around 80mpg and I am not very conservative on the throttle. I was worried that the lighter weights would be a detriment to top speed, but I'm actually seeing a nice improvement over the 14g rollers that came with my Daytona variator.

My top speed so far is 78mph on a decline, and the bike has no problem holding 70mph.

My next upgrade will be the Kitaco high gear. Hopefully that will get me an honest 80mph. I'm really trying to avoid the bore kit...for now.

[vamootsman]

It's good to see some validation from the rest of your projects reinforcing that my "seat of the pants" observations have been legit. I still want a big bore kit some day though just to pull hills better while loaded down, and some genius to devise an auxiliary fuel tank. I can dream right?

[Valiant]

Alrighty, so I ran into a little bit of a snag out on the freeway.

Pulling rpms are at 8500, which is perfect. The issue was that it would hit the rev limiter at 60 mph, whereas with the 12g sliders I couldn't even reach the rev limiter at 75 mph. Tried using the stock center spring(was running a Takegawa 11% stiffer spring), that had utterly no effect on top speed and reintroduced the takeoff lag.

I suspect my KN Planning torque driver is causing the issue by not allowing the rear pulley to come apart and upshift under torque. It has two slot sets, but one set is straighter yet has the "banana curve", meaning rpms would drop mid acceleration. The straight slots have a steeper angle, which is presumable causing the issues.

Definitely something to keep in mind that changing one thing will screw with everything else. I went back to the old setup of 12g sliders and the Takegawa center spring. Technically speaking, my overall power went up with the installation of the BBK, so I would wager even at 7700 pulling rpms, it would likely accelerate as fast as a stock 150 with a tuned transmission pulling at 8500 rpms.

[Pcxdemon]

I'm sure I just said that would happen couple of posts ago.
My advice, keep the torque driver with stright slots, takegawa spring, .3mm or .5mm washer only, and weights set to 8200rpm max...
You will be happy with that set up.

[Valiant]

The weights can't be set at 8200 rpms because of the high rev issue. I'm also quite certain that this issue is unique to me because of the KN Planning torque driver, otherwise other 150 owners would have far more issues with 10g weights.

[Pcxdemon]

The weights can't be set at 8200 rpms because of the high rev issue. I'm also quite certain that this issue is unique to me because of the KN Planning torque driver, otherwise other 150 owners would have far more issues with 10g weights.

There is no issues. Even with my 164cc set up with the lot, I find the 8200rpm is the best pulling rpm same as a stock 125 set up, the only diff is 164 is way faster though. 8200rpm is perfect balance of acceleration and being able to reach your max top end without toping rpm off before you reach your top end. From my years of experience in tuning the Pcx at various stages of the performance build I can safely say, kn planing torque driver with straight groves slots, .3mm to .5mm washer, 14degree outer pulley but not the lighter ones than a stock pulley weight ( advance pro makes two, one is same weight as stock pulley and one is 15-20g lighter) I say that because and especially with stock motors, the lighter pulley will result in loss of torque ever slightly to affect your mid and top end acceleration. It's less pronounced on bbk motors but still you will always have a better affect with normal 'weight' outer pulley than a lighter one and weights should not be set more than 8200rpm. The spring shouldn't be more than 10% stiffer, I have spring here that's 20% stiff and it's great acceleration till 80kmh but after that you feel it's affect of holding you back..needles to say, it's binned with other parts in the corner of the garage. Daytona is the best performance vario, best balance of acceleration, mid range explosives and very decent top end speed and power.

[Pcxdemon]

You need to go to your local shop where you can buy a budget air compressor and a rattle gun ( usually somewhere around $100) and be able to get stuck in to that transmition as often as you need till you get that balance right. That $100 investment will pay back it self imidiatley..

[Valiant]

Again, I'm running a different torque driver(KN Planning, with longer slots). There are issues.

My 12g setup only pulls at 7700 rpms. If I go with lighter weights, the variator can't push the belt out because the torque driver keeps the rear pulley from opening up. I can't use a looser spring because that causes the takeoff lag. This is the setup I have to use.

Not that it's a bad thing, I didn't really lose any road speed(gained a tad if anything), and my mpg went up about 6-7 on the freeway, even with the aftermarket clutch. I also can't say there was an appreciable difference in acceleration between the 10g and the 12g other than the numbers on my tachometer. My PCX still tears ass past cars from the lights.