Pcx Yuminashi Chainsaw 164!

[Valeriy71]

I myself recently finished a long project. I got my takegawa cam installed with the decompression feature on it. It starts beautifully just as before. I was intent on doing it this way since I ride almost year round. I didn't want to get stuck somewhere with a low battery lol.

As for performance, the cam along with the ficon2 and silent sport exhaust works great. Only issue I have at this point is needing to retune the variator weights. I'm currently using 12g sliders and running up to 8800rpm before I get to highway speed. I'm thinking maybe 13-15g rollers to start my tuning.

Good day! I have a problem .... Brought from Japan РСХ 150 KF12. It accelerated to 100 km / h. On the step cutoff 107 km / h. Bought SP TAKEGAWA Hyper S Stage Big Core Kit 170 cc for РСХ KF 12. Dynamics increased slightly at low and medium revs, but the speed remained at 100 km / h .On the step cutoff 117 km / h. Put the variator TAKEGAWA, a large spring, put my variator, different mass of rollers, switched a different map of settings (now to C), but РСХ 170сс goes 100 km / h. Why does it go 100 km / h , maybe I didn't do something? The electronics are connected correctly. I drove 6 thousand kilometers on TAKEGAWA. I want more speed. Thank you!

[power-full]

Hello good afternoon . I think you are using the 12 gr rollers with the gates belt and the yuminashi inverter as well as the poly. in relation to the box I have mounted 13/53/44 on the road is 145 kh, in the central rest it is 158kh. I have a lambda probe emulator, and a 170cc type b injector. that according to the yuminashi team, it was due to not having this injector fitted that I had a bigger and faster wear of the kit. let's see how it looks now with the new kit ... I have also assembled the power inertia of yuminashi, and now I bought the new fan for a higher air flow to the radiator. together with a 1.6 radiator cap instead of the original 0.9.

[Pcxdemon]

I myself recently finished a long project. I got my takegawa cam installed with the decompression feature on it. It starts beautifully just as before. I was intent on doing it this way since I ride almost year round. I didn't want to get stuck somewhere with a low battery lol.

As for performance, the cam along with the ficon2 and silent sport exhaust works great. Only issue I have at this point is needing to retune the variator weights. I'm currently using 12g sliders and running up to 8800rpm before I get to highway speed. I'm thinking maybe 13-15g rollers to start my tuning.

Good day! I have a problem .... Brought from Japan РСХ 150 KF12. It accelerated to 100 km / h. On the step cutoff 107 km / h. Bought SP TAKEGAWA Hyper S Stage Big Core Kit 170 cc for РСХ KF 12. Dynamics increased slightly at low and medium revs, but the speed remained at 100 km / h .On the step cutoff 117 km / h. Put the variator TAKEGAWA, a large spring, put my variator, different mass of rollers, switched a different map of settings (now to C), but РСХ 170сс goes 100 km / h. Why does it go 100 km / h , maybe I didn't do something? The electronics are connected correctly. I drove 6 thousand kilometers on TAKEGAWA. I want more speed. Thank you!

I think you changed too many things at once so it's hard to tell why. Go back to your original setting and see where you're at. Change things one at the time so you're on the pulse..

[Pcxdemon]

I'm still around, my pcx is still going strong. I love it... If it was stock standard I would have goten rid of it long time ago but being a weapon and 100 smiles per mile just keeps my passion for it going on and on..

[power-full]

Hello good day . something similar happened to me. I went to see e.the engine was not ready had a tooth in the distribution delayed. you don't notice anything while working it just doesn't reach full speed...besides doing this to the exhaust (see photo) ...lol

[Pcxdemon]

Hmm that looks bad...

[power-full]

it's not bad at all...lol it was doing a test with various weights (masses) in the variator, but with the bike stopped...lol

[PCX 125 CANDY RED]

I myself recently finished a long project. I got my takegawa cam installed with the decompression feature on it. It starts beautifully just as before. I was intent on doing it this way since I ride almost year round. I didn't want to get stuck somewhere with a low battery lol.

As for performance, the cam along with the ficon2 and silent sport exhaust works great. Only issue I have at this point is needing to retune the variator weights. I'm currently using 12g sliders and running up to 8800rpm before I get to highway speed. I'm thinking maybe 13-15g rollers to start my tuning.

Good day! I have a problem .... Brought from Japan РСХ 150 KF12. It accelerated to 100 km / h. On the step cutoff 107 km / h. Bought SP TAKEGAWA Hyper S Stage Big Core Kit 170 cc for РСХ KF 12. Dynamics increased slightly at low and medium revs, but the speed remained at 100 km / h .On the step cutoff 117 km / h. Put the variator TAKEGAWA, a large spring, put my variator, different mass of rollers, switched a different map of settings (now to C), but РСХ 170сс goes 100 km / h. Why does it go 100 km / h , maybe I didn't do something? The electronics are connected correctly. I drove 6 thousand kilometers on TAKEGAWA. I want more speed. Thank you!

Where are you from body?

[mr.supernova]

Inertia booster modified...Should be hopefully perfect balance between smooth engine balance and top end power without loss of acceleration..

Ok, I've installed it last night after milling 200+ grams off couple of weeks ago. Took it for a ride and just simply it's a really good addition to the engine. Makes it so much more smoother and refined feeling to it. I've found that shaving off nearly half the weight is the best balance between smoothness and retaining punchiness of the engine. It also makes the scooter do wheelies of the line with just the throttle control...it did that in its full trim as well but it took its toll slightly afterwards on rest of the performance but now that it's been lightened I've got it to give me best of all options..

Highly recommended upgrade and it's cheap too...

is there any chance of getting dimensions to what you removed please looking at doing a bbk for the esp motor from the Forza

[Pcxdemon]

Pm me and I'll give you a full detail of my transmition parts. I think as far as transmition is concerned, Iv egot it dialed in to a tee..

[Valeriy7]

Installed Yuminashi full set of 164cc. I put a long gear 15/45. Started driving. In a few days I drove 180 km. Then the scooter started overheating. The red light came on. I pumped the water system many times, the result is deplorable. The steam is collected, the pressure in the radiator, the liquid is sent to the expansion tank. It does not return when the engine is cold. I changed the thermostat, checked the pipes, hoses, pump seal. No air leaks found. Could it be the head gasket?

[power-full]

Just awsome!!!

Could you tell me if the scooter with a big bore kit will over heat? Some one told me that there is 4 guys in Portugal with big bore on their PCX 125 and all of them had to stop the scooter cause the engine temp light switched on! I'm afraid of that if I go on with this big bore. That's why he told me the safest one will be big bore of 150.

Hi guys . I have the 164cc kit since 2017 and to this day I have never had temperature stress!!!
people have problems in principle for 2 reasons: they use the original injector, they use 10w30 oil for 4,000 or 5,000 km as honda says to use on the 125cc cylinder, another cause is having to change the radiator cap for a 1.6. instead of the original 1.1, many of those who assembled the cylinder didn't even know that it was necessary to change the cap

[power-full]

Installed Yuminashi full set of 164cc. I put a long gear 15/45. Started driving. In a few days I drove 180 km. Then the scooter started overheating. The red light came on. I pumped the water system many times, the result is deplorable. The steam is collected, the pressure in the radiator, the liquid is sent to the expansion tank. It does not return when the engine is cold. I changed the thermostat, checked the pipes, hoses, pump seal. No air leaks found. Could it be the head gasket?

by the symptoms the joint must be gone !!
I almost bet you are using the original 1.1 bar radiator cap!!! if this is one of the problems, another cause could be injection.. lack of gasoline causes overheating / engine clogging

[Valeriy7]

Installed Yuminashi full set of 164cc. I put a long gear 15/45. Started driving. In a few days I drove 180 km. Then the scooter started overheating. The red light came on. I pumped the water system many times, the result is deplorable. The steam is collected, the pressure in the radiator, the liquid is sent to the expansion tank. It does not return when the engine is cold. I changed the thermostat, checked the pipes, hoses, pump seal. No air leaks found. Could it be the head gasket?

by the symptoms the joint must be gone !!
I almost bet you are using the original 1.1 bar radiator cap!!! if this is one of the problems, another cause could be injection.. lack of gasoline causes overheating / engine clogging

Radiator cap 1.6 bar. Injector 170 cc see Throttle Body 31mm. Collector, air filter and its pipe included. Camshaft and rocker arms with double springs. FI CON2 Takekawa (previously Takekawa 170cc kit, now Yuminashi 164cc). Candle NGK9. Yuminashi CVT and long gear 15/45. I decided to tighten the cylinder head with a force of 28 Nm. I tightened the nuts by 1-1.5 turns ... Very strange! Started the engine and earned a break in the cooling circuit. There was no overheating. I worked for 40 minutes on site without problems, it was +2 Celsius outside. The next day I noticed that the fluid in the expansion tank again did not return to the radiator overnight. Once again I checked the nuts on the head with a force of 28Nm and the right upper nut on the stud was still pulled up by 1 turn. This surprised me. I checked again and as it turned out, the pin was torn off at the base. I think the aluminum threads in the housing are stripped. Be attentive and careful! Most likely this was the cause of the engine overheating. The gasket was not pressed properly and exhaust gases entered the cooling system. In a month I will disassemble and make steel inserts from stainless steel into the body at once for four studs. I will definitely write about the results.

[power-full]

Um dos meus vídeos preferidos
https://youtu.be/5ulYAoxniBk

[Pcxdemon]

Installed Yuminashi full set of 164cc. I put a long gear 15/45. Started driving. In a few days I drove 180 km. Then the scooter started overheating. The red light came on. I pumped the water system many times, the result is deplorable. The steam is collected, the pressure in the radiator, the liquid is sent to the expansion tank. It does not return when the engine is cold. I changed the thermostat, checked the pipes, hoses, pump seal. No air leaks found. Could it be the head gasket?

by the symptoms the joint must be gone !!
I almost bet you are using the original 1.1 bar radiator cap!!! if this is one of the problems, another cause could be injection.. lack of gasoline causes overheating / engine clogging

Radiator cap 1.6 bar. Injector 170 cc see Throttle Body 31mm. Collector, air filter and its pipe included. Camshaft and rocker arms with double springs. FI CON2 Takekawa (previously Takekawa 170cc kit, now Yuminashi 164cc). Candle NGK9. Yuminashi CVT and long gear 15/45. I decided to tighten the cylinder head with a force of 28 Nm. I tightened the nuts by 1-1.5 turns ... Very strange! Started the engine and earned a break in the cooling circuit. There was no overheating. I worked for 40 minutes on site without problems, it was +2 Celsius outside. The next day I noticed that the fluid in the expansion tank again did not return to the radiator overnight. Once again I checked the nuts on the head with a force of 28Nm and the right upper nut on the stud was still pulled up by 1 turn. This surprised me. I checked again and as it turned out, the pin was torn off at the base. I think the aluminum threads in the housing are stripped. Be attentive and careful! Most likely this was the cause of the engine overheating. The gasket was not pressed properly and exhaust gases entered the cooling system. In a month I will disassemble and make steel inserts from stainless steel into the body at once for four studs. I will definitely write about the results.

Did you upgrade to 150 head?! That's a must...also, make sure to file and align water cooling ports as per the gasket holes if needed. I run takegawa 170 first gen kit as I'm jf28 but with 150 head (takegawa head gasket triple layer split and I'm only using one piece of three for best compression power outcome). Had to modify my exhaust head pipe to align to the 150 exhaust port. To fuel, I run takegawa FiCon with yuminashi bigger injector. My afr meter is reading perfect afr. I also use Forza 35mm throttle body, for that had to buy from Webike a Chameleon 35mm throttle body manifold for the jf28 pcx (unique piece). No problems with cooling or fueling.

[Valeriy7]

by the symptoms the joint must be gone !!
I almost bet you are using the original 1.1 bar radiator cap!!! if this is one of the problems, another cause could be injection.. lack of gasoline causes overheating / engine clogging

Radiator cap 1.6 bar. Injector 170 cc see Throttle Body 31mm. Collector, air filter and its pipe included. Camshaft and rocker arms with double springs. FI CON2 Takekawa (previously Takekawa 170cc kit, now Yuminashi 164cc). Candle NGK9. Yuminashi CVT and long gear 15/45. I decided to tighten the cylinder head with a force of 28 Nm. I tightened the nuts by 1-1.5 turns ... Very strange! Started the engine and earned a break in the cooling circuit. There was no overheating. I worked for 40 minutes on site without problems, it was +2 Celsius outside. The next day I noticed that the fluid in the expansion tank again did not return to the radiator overnight. Once again I checked the nuts on the head with a force of 28Nm and the right upper nut on the stud was still pulled up by 1 turn. This surprised me. I checked again and as it turned out, the pin was torn off at the base. I think the aluminum threads in the housing are stripped. Be attentive and careful! Most likely this was the cause of the engine overheating. The gasket was not pressed properly and exhaust gases entered the cooling system. In a month I will disassemble and make steel inserts from stainless steel into the body at once for four studs. I will definitely write about the results.

Did you upgrade to 150 head?! That's a must...also, make sure to file and align water cooling ports as per the gasket holes if needed. I run takegawa 170 first gen kit as I'm jf28 but with 150 head (takegawa head gasket triple layer split and I'm only using one piece of three for best compression power outcome). Had to modify my exhaust head pipe to align to the 150 exhaust port. To fuel, I run takegawa FiCon with yuminashi bigger injector. My afr meter is reading perfect afr. I also use Forza 35mm throttle body, for that had to buy from Webike a Chameleon 35mm throttle body manifold for the jf28 pcx (unique piece). No problems with cooling or fueling.

Thanks for the info. I have read almost all of your forum posts and appreciate your opinion. I have RCX 150 KF-12. Takegawa 170cc has covered 18000 km. Piston, cylinder and camshaft in very good condition (someday I will use Takegawa single layer gasket). Switched to 164cc Yuminashi. Camshaft, Rocker Arms, Dual Springs, 170cc Injector cm, 31mm throttle manifold, Takegawa FiCon, Yuminashi CVT, 15/45 reduction gear, 1.6 bar cap. After 150 km there were problems with cooling. As it turned out, the stud in the crankcase was torn off and the head was not pressed against the cylinder. The mechanic did... I'll do all four studs. But now I can't do it, the country is at war. The post office is closed, banks in my area are closed, stores and pharmacies are closed, they are selling out the last product. Lots of refugees. While I'm sitting at home... The scooter is standing, the plastic is removed, I'm waiting for better times. It's important to survive.

[Pcxdemon]

Radiator cap 1.6 bar. Injector 170 cc see Throttle Body 31mm. Collector, air filter and its pipe included. Camshaft and rocker arms with double springs. FI CON2 Takekawa (previously Takekawa 170cc kit, now Yuminashi 164cc). Candle NGK9. Yuminashi CVT and long gear 15/45. I decided to tighten the cylinder head with a force of 28 Nm. I tightened the nuts by 1-1.5 turns ... Very strange! Started the engine and earned a break in the cooling circuit. There was no overheating. I worked for 40 minutes on site without problems, it was +2 Celsius outside. The next day I noticed that the fluid in the expansion tank again did not return to the radiator overnight. Once again I checked the nuts on the head with a force of 28Nm and the right upper nut on the stud was still pulled up by 1 turn. This surprised me. I checked again and as it turned out, the pin was torn off at the base. I think the aluminum threads in the housing are stripped. Be attentive and careful! Most likely this was the cause of the engine overheating. The gasket was not pressed properly and exhaust gases entered the cooling system. In a month I will disassemble and make steel inserts from stainless steel into the body at once for four studs. I will definitely write about the results.

Did you upgrade to 150 head?! That's a must...also, make sure to file and align water cooling ports as per the gasket holes if needed. I run takegawa 170 first gen kit as I'm jf28 but with 150 head (takegawa head gasket triple layer split and I'm only using one piece of three for best compression power outcome). Had to modify my exhaust head pipe to align to the 150 exhaust port. To fuel, I run takegawa FiCon with yuminashi bigger injector. My afr meter is reading perfect afr. I also use Forza 35mm throttle body, for that had to buy from Webike a Chameleon 35mm throttle body manifold for the jf28 pcx (unique piece). No problems with cooling or fueling.

Thanks for the info. I have read almost all of your forum posts and appreciate your opinion. I have RCX 150 KF-12. Takegawa 170cc has covered 18000 km. Piston, cylinder and camshaft in very good condition (someday I will use Takegawa single layer gasket). Switched to 164cc Yuminashi. Camshaft, Rocker Arms, Dual Springs, 170cc Injector cm, 31mm throttle manifold, Takegawa FiCon, Yuminashi CVT, 15/45 reduction gear, 1.6 bar cap. After 150 km there were problems with cooling. As it turned out, the stud in the crankcase was torn off and the head was not pressed against the cylinder. The mechanic did... I'll do all four studs. But now I can't do it, the country is at war. The post office is closed, banks in my area are closed, stores and pharmacies are closed, they are selling out the last product. Lots of refugees. While I'm sitting at home... The scooter is standing, the plastic is removed, I'm waiting for better times. It's important to survive.

Sorry to hear about the war...hope you're ok and stay well...scooter can wait for better times.
Keep safe!

[Valeriy7]

Radiator cap 1.6 bar. Injector 170 cc see Throttle Body 31mm. Collector, air filter and its pipe included. Camshaft and rocker arms with double springs. FI CON2 Takekawa (previously Takekawa 170cc kit, now Yuminashi 164cc). Candle NGK9. Yuminashi CVT and long gear 15/45. I decided to tighten the cylinder head with a force of 28 Nm. I tightened the nuts by 1-1.5 turns ... Very strange! Started the engine and earned a break in the cooling circuit. There was no overheating. I worked for 40 minutes on site without problems, it was +2 Celsius outside. The next day I noticed that the fluid in the expansion tank again did not return to the radiator overnight. Once again I checked the nuts on the head with a force of 28Nm and the right upper nut on the stud was still pulled up by 1 turn. This surprised me. I checked again and as it turned out, the pin was torn off at the base. I think the aluminum threads in the housing are stripped. Be attentive and careful! Most likely this was the cause of the engine overheating. The gasket was not pressed properly and exhaust gases entered the cooling system. In a month I will disassemble and make steel inserts from stainless steel into the body at once for four studs. I will definitely write about the results.

Did you upgrade to 150 head?! That's a must...also, make sure to file and align water cooling ports as per the gasket holes if needed. I run takegawa 170 first gen kit as I'm jf28 but with 150 head (takegawa head gasket triple layer split and I'm only using one piece of three for best compression power outcome). Had to modify my exhaust head pipe to align to the 150 exhaust port. To fuel, I run takegawa FiCon with yuminashi bigger injector. My afr meter is reading perfect afr. I also use Forza 35mm throttle body, for that had to buy from Webike a Chameleon 35mm throttle body manifold for the jf28 pcx (unique piece). No problems with cooling or fueling.

Thanks for the info. I have read almost all of your forum posts and appreciate your opinion. I have RCX 150 KF-12. Takegawa 170cc has covered 18000 km. Piston, cylinder and camshaft in very good condition (someday I will use Takegawa single layer gasket). Switched to 164cc Yuminashi. Camshaft, Rocker Arms, Dual Springs, 170cc Injector cm, 31mm throttle manifold, Takegawa FiCon, Yuminashi CVT, 15/45 reduction gear, 1.6 bar cap. After 150 km there were problems with cooling. As it turned out, the stud in the crankcase was torn off and the head was not pressed against the cylinder. The mechanic did... I'll do all four studs. But now I can't do it, the country is at war. The post office is closed, banks in my area are closed, stores and pharmacies are closed, they are selling out the last product. Lots of refugees. While I'm sitting at home... The scooter is standing, the plastic is removed, I'm waiting for better times. It's important to survive.

Did you upgrade to 150 head?! That's a must...also, make sure to file and align water cooling ports as per the gasket holes if needed. I run takegawa 170 first gen kit as I'm jf28 but with 150 head (takegawa head gasket triple layer split and I'm only using one piece of three for best compression power outcome). Had to modify my exhaust head pipe to align to the 150 exhaust port. To fuel, I run takegawa FiCon with yuminashi bigger injector. My afr meter is reading perfect afr. I also use Forza 35mm throttle body, for that had to buy from Webike a Chameleon 35mm throttle body manifold for the jf28 pcx (unique piece). No problems with cooling or fueling.

Thanks for the info. I have read almost all of your forum posts and appreciate your opinion. I have RCX 150 KF-12. Takegawa 170cc has covered 18000 km. Piston, cylinder and camshaft in very good condition (someday I will use Takegawa single layer gasket). Switched to 164cc Yuminashi. Camshaft, Rocker Arms, Dual Springs, 170cc Injector cm, 31mm throttle manifold, Takegawa FiCon, Yuminashi CVT, 15/45 reduction gear, 1.6 bar cap. After 150 km there were problems with cooling. As it turned out, the stud in the crankcase was torn off and the head was not pressed against the cylinder. The mechanic did... I'll do all four studs. But now I can't do it, the country is at war. The post office is closed, banks in my area are closed, stores and pharmacies are closed, they are selling out the last product. Lots of refugees. While I'm sitting at home... The scooter is standing, the plastic is removed, I'm waiting for better times. It's important to survive.

Sorry to hear about the war...hope you're ok and stay well...scooter can wait for better times.
Keep safe!

Thank you!

[power-full]

good..I'm so sorry about all this about the war... soon you can ride a motorcycle again.... I'm so far away and so scared,,..I don't know how you guys are so strong and put up with it....., ,..a lot of strength...