The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hi

I have a 2016 PCX 150 with 15000 kms and the clutch is shuddering quite a bit.

It improves a little when the bike warms up, but it still seems to be pretty rough compared to my previous 2014 PCX.

Is this normal? If so, can it be improved?

Thanks, Noel

good , you have to clean the clutch shims with fine sandpaper , and degrease the clutch bell , then apply a little sandpaper. the campanola...

grandinj wrote: ↑Wed Nov 03, 2021 5:44 am Hi

I have a 2016 PCX 150 with 15000 kms and the clutch is shuddering quite a bit.

It improves a little when the bike warms up, but it still seems to be pretty rough compared to my previous 2014 PCX.

Is this normal? If so, can it be improved?

Thanks, Noel

I chased my tail with this for a while and in the end just gave up.

You can clean up the clutch per the above, but you'll probably find yourself needing to do it every few hundred kilometres.

Now I've just got used to it and don't give it a moment's thought.

Local Honda dealer advised;- Give it a couple ''hard'' accelerations from a standstill to de-glaze the clutch plates /shoes

Yorkie150 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 06, 2021 6:06 am Local Honda dealer advised;- Give it a couple ''hard'' accelerations from a standstill to de-glaze the clutch plates /shoes

And when - oops, I mean if - that doesn't work then "bring it in to us to take a (chargable) look at"?

I suspect that "a couple of hard accelerations" is about as likely to deglaze clutch pads as a "couple of sprints to the letterbox"is likely to lose me 20kg in weight

Yorkie150 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 06, 2021 6:06 am Local Honda dealer advised;- Give it a couple ''hard'' accelerations from a standstill to de-glaze the clutch plates /shoes

This is good advice.

Give the bike an "Italian tune-up" every so often...

Coasting wrote: ↑Sat Nov 06, 2021 4:31 pm

Yorkie150 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 06, 2021 6:06 am Local Honda dealer advised;- Give it a couple ''hard'' accelerations from a standstill to de-glaze the clutch plates /shoes

And when - oops, I mean if - that doesn't work then "bring it in to us to take a (chargable) look at"?
I suspect that "a couple of hard accelerations" is about as likely to deglaze clutch pads as a "couple of sprints to the letterbox"is likely to lose me 20kg in weight

Not so, often been quoted by people suffering this condition on this forum. The issue is brought about by being too gentle at take-off for long periods. Yes, the problem will come back if you go easy off the start line to frequently, but the suggestion does normally provide a fix over a couple of days.
The long term fix seems to be to use 110 pads instead of the PCX 125 originals - slightly lighter and those that changed them say the problem went away for good.
I believe '(22535-KVB-900)' was quoted as suitable alternatives and made take-off satin like. Search for clutch shudder or the part listed and you should find the thread.

iceman wrote: ↑Mon Nov 08, 2021 3:23 pmNot so, often been quoted by people suffering this condition on this forum. The issue is brought about by being too gentle at take-off for long periods. Yes, the problem will come back if you go easy off the start line to frequently, but the suggestion does normally provide a fix over a couple of days.

It's not been my experience; mine is usually back to shuddering within a few hundred km of manually deglasing the clutch shoes - and I do several "max performance launches" a day (filtering between stationary traffic at the lights to get to the front of the lane (where one lane is turning anyway -- so it's not like I need to "win the drag race").

I've often heard the same advice given for deglasing brake shoes and had pretty much the same lack of results with that technique there too. Still, no harm in trying.

Personally, I don't understand why the shuddering bothers people; IMO all motorised vehicles shake / shudder / vibrate at various times; unless it's something seriously wrong (like a grossly out of balance wheel) I just accept it as "part and parcel" of riding the beast and enjoy it as part of the riding experience.

Works for my 7 year old bike - had the new clutch pads for years but never fitted them as when the issue returns, some stronger starts cures. I've never once gone mad on the acceleration such as 'WOT' wide open throttle like some so no need to go to that extreme.

Still, if it works, great, if not the solution is to replace the shoes. For me, I do not like the judder and was dissapointed to see so many other scooters around that do not suffer from the issue.

That said, glad I stuck with the PCX and not got one of the newer Forza 125's - build quality and issues for those £5000 bikes is awful - far too many problems (from owners on other web sites such as FB),

I can attest to the "Quick accleration" method of clearing up the clutch shudder. There's a whole other thread about this and the conclusion is either changing the clutch material, or just do quick acclerations so it scrubs off some material.

I realized this clutch shudder only happens when I carry my wife with me through traffic where I have to be gentle with the throttle from the start. By about the 3rd or 4th light, the clutch shudder is horrible. But if I'm riding by myself, I always full throttle or at least 3/4 throttle from stops and I never have issues with the clutch. I used to hold rear brakes hard down, then hold throttle wide open for about 2 to 5 seconds. That makes it very smooth. But I've since stopped doing this and just give it a couple of hard launches and it clears up the glazing.

You can also switch the clutch to the one from the Honda Click 110. Check out viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7049 for more information about this topic.

op3l wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:15 amI used to hold rear brakes hard down, then hold throttle wide open for about 2 to 5 seconds. That makes it very smooth.

This is the correct answer. Just to clarify for others, need to hold the RIGHT brake lever, which is rather convenient since your right hand will be on throttle.

I prefer to upgrade the clutch bell housing to a lighter one with a knurling pattern on the inside. Found a really good one for my 2013 model, but for my 2016 model, I could only find one with straight grooves.

grndslm wrote: ↑Sun Nov 21, 2021 9:35 pm

op3l wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:15 amI used to hold rear brakes hard down, then hold throttle wide open for about 2 to 5 seconds. That makes it very smooth.

This is the correct answer. Just to clarify for others, need to hold the RIGHT brake lever, which is rather convenient since your right hand will be on throttle.

I prefer to upgrade the clutch bell housing to a lighter one with a knurling pattern on the inside. Found a really good one for my 2013 model, but for my 2016 model, I could only find one with straight grooves.

In my part of the world the right lever is for the front wheel.

Assuming the bike is on seal with at least an average size person on it then it's not going to make any difference which lever one holds; it's doesn't have CBR1000RR power - it's not going to spin up the rear if you hold the front brakes on.

Coasting wrote: ↑Tue Nov 23, 2021 5:21 am

grndslm wrote: ↑Sun Nov 21, 2021 9:35 pm

op3l wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:15 amI used to hold rear brakes hard down, then hold throttle wide open for about 2 to 5 seconds. That makes it very smooth.

This is the correct answer. Just to clarify for others, need to hold the RIGHT brake lever, which is rather convenient since your right hand will be on throttle.

I prefer to upgrade the clutch bell housing to a lighter one with a knurling pattern on the inside. Found a really good one for my 2013 model, but for my 2016 model, I could only find one with straight grooves.

In my part of the world the right lever is for the front wheel.

Assuming the bike is on seal with at least an average size person on it then it's not going to make any difference which lever one holds; it's doesn't have CBR1000RR power - it's not going to spin up the rear if you hold the front brakes on.

Yea definitely want to hold down the rear brake lever when doing this. I've found holding just the front the bike will tend to push the front as it loads up enough torque to overcome the grip of the front tire.

With a 1000cc(or any other higher torque/HP bike) the rear will loose traction so just holding the front is ok. But at 150cc... it's like it has its own traction control lol

Ok, so... Yea, there's some confusion about which level actually controls the CBS, *because* the manual says something that contradicts how the bike is actually designed.

Right is front only. Left is CBS (so... both!). Need to hold down LEFT brake and twist the throttle wide open for a few seconds. Should stop the shuddering for a bit, even if you have to do it 2 or 3 times. Worked for me, at least...

There are many aftermarket clutch pads and clutch bell that solves this problem now. They've added grooves to the bell and changed the pads material.