The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

In this video I am going to show you how to remove and install CVT parts on PCX -

*** Tools I used in this video:
Ratchet 1/4 drive - http://amzn.to/2xcJEu1
Phillips #2 screwdriver - http://amzn.to/2fgdZDL
3” / 6” extension set 1/4 drive - http://amzn.to/2wDuzzW
8mm socket 1/4 drive - http://amzn.to/2xMhsBl
10mm socket 1/4 drive - http://amzn.to/2yrXjxp
19mm socket 3/8 drive - http://amzn.to/2CiXNqo
22mm socket 1/2 drive - https://amzn.to/3aHoJ64
1/2 to 3/8 drive socket adapter - https://amzn.to/2EqLzQm
Breaker bar 1/2 drive - http://amzn.to/2HenuMI
Torque wrench 10-150 lb/ft 1/2 drive - http://amzn.to/2GuMsHJ
Variator / Clutch holder tool - https://amzn.to/2ZuYJEA
Brush
Rag / towel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5DhE-pV3Pg

Thanks again for an excellent tutorial! Do you bother with any lube for rollers/boss? [graphite powder or something else]? Thanks.

One more thing........[Peter Faulk moment] On the 2013 PCX.......The removal of the under step body part isn't necessary, if you have a i/4 inch
ratchet. with proper socket. That one hidden bolt is accessible .

Hey, thank you!
I never apply lube on those even on other scooters... it's all good... if I switch rollers to sliders I use dry lube... but rollers are not needed for dry lube... but can apply.
Thanks for the tip about skirt cover

Awesome Videos Mitch! Subbed!

I was curious about the question of where to apply grease myself. I would say on both sides of the variator boss (I see people say exterior side of boss is most important, but I did both because I didn't see a reason NOT to, plus it appeared there was grease on that side (next to the axle), already. I applied grease to the axle holding the clutch pack, as well... because, you guessed it... there was grease on there already, too. If you open the clutch pack, the clutch does need grease where the sliding pins rotate or whatnot. And I also applied grease to the three plastic U groove thingies. Now that I'm thinking about it, tho... I should NOT have applied lithium grease like I just did, but should've used silicone grease. :-/ I'll have to change that soon.

What I'm *still* wondering is if there's any good way to determine whether both the variator & clutch nuts are either on too tight or too loose... without using a torque wrench, of course. I've got a digital one somewhere but don't know where, at the moment. :-(

I just got a NEW 1/2" impact gun, and I'm pretty sure it got the clutch bell TOO tight. As I turned the clutch bell by hand, it would turn the belt and variator!! That is TOO TIGHT, no?!? I loosened it a bit and tried tightening it with my old 1/4" impact driver, as I've done before. Seems to be just right... but hoping for "tell tale signs" so that we can know if we should keep tightening, or if we should back off.

Now that I've put it back together as tight as I *think* it should be, it seems like the clutch bell is making a little DING of the bell at first pull of throttle. Never heard that before, so I'm not sure if that's a good thing (faster than ever!), or if it's a sign that everything's about to fall apart....

ALSO... I like how the OPs video shows the different size bolts, like so -- ... 4 medium bolts, 2 long bolts, etc. One of my "2 long bolts" (central most bolt to all other bolts) is missing, so I need to figure out how to find a replacement. All the diagrams I see stop at the "left crankcase" and don't actually address the left crankcase cover, which is what those bolts would be considered?? Any help at finding that replacement would be great. All 3 muffler bolts were loose, and the top one was so loose that I cannot locate it. Fortunately, those diagrams are easy enough for me to find. Would prefer to order these 2 missing bolts together to save on shipping costs.

Best method to judge tightness if mark them before taking off - when thightening the marks will align pretty close to where they came from as with large nuts, it would be very difficult to tighten them too much so that they go on a whole turn more!