The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Just wanted to share some tips from doing the valve adjustment on the PCX I just purchased.

Note. Being 5 years old it had 850 miles when I purchased it and had about 1050 today,

I'm going to leave the 2 bolts and 2 screws that hold the battery box to the side covers off. The screw on the top by the fuel door and the two that bolt it to the underseat compartment should be plenty and make it a little easier next time.

The lower right side valve cover bolt and lower exhaust valve adjustment nut are a beach to get to.

I haven't seen this mentioned but if you remove the two exhaust bolts and move the exhaust out of the way there is much more hand room from the bottom. Made getting to the said bolt and exhaust valve much easier.

The intake was fine but the exhaust was way too tight. Of course the hardest one to get to. No special Honda tools for the lock nut and and 3 mm tappet wrench. I found a 11/32 wrench or socket fits the locking nut. 8 and 10 mm do not. Once the nut was loosened I adjusted it by hand.

I'm happy with the results and need to put everything back into it's correct place.

I had a 2010 Honda SH150 and it was much easier getting to the valves.

Next replace the 5 year old coolant and I should be good for sometime.

Hope this helps someone.

I would easily live with the cosmetic impact required to have some easy sort of removable access panel(s) for PCX valve adjustment / access. Having to remove all the bodywork is just plain stupid IMHO.

Easier to just NOT check the valves on this bike all together. I'm not sure if ANYBODY has had an issue with their valves being that far out of adjustment to be of ANY concern. Even the shop I take my bike to when I need new tires says they don't recommend spending the time/money to check them unless it's making noises.

The ONLY issue I've had with my 2016 is the 3 exhaust bolts came loose, and now I need to find one replacement as it decided it had places to go. My 2013 only had 2 issues -- clutch pack bearings and cam chain tensioner. Both were rather trivial to fix if you've got all the tools.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

" check them unless it's making noises." The problem is that when they're not making noise the valves can be too tight which is what happens on a new engine. Compression loss, burnt valves, excessive wear could be a result.

I'm on cappra's side on this one. If the service manual says to do a maintenance item I am going to do it. I don't like taking chances, and as an added bonus, each maintenance item I do teaches me more about my scoot. This could come in handy when I do the Scooter Cannonball Run in 2023

dankly1 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 06, 2022 11:27 pm I'm on cappra's side on this one. If the service manual says to do a maintenance item I am going to do it. I don't like taking chances, and as an added bonus, each maintenance item I do teaches me more about my scoot. This could come in handy when I do the Scooter Cannonball Run in 2023

. Hey good luck with your planning for the 2023 run. The more advance info & planning the better !

Just completed valve adjustment on my 2013. It only had 2700 miles on it when I bought it in May. The original owner only changed the oil, so I had a lot of maintenance items to catch up on. It is a "total pain in the ass" to disassemble/assemble the plastic, took me almost 5 hours to complete. The valves where in spec, .004 intake .009 exhaust. No adjustment necessary.

Great! You shouldn't need to do them for a long time/miles ......unless you prefer doing them "by the book"
I have a theory that sometimes they aren't set "perfectly" at the factory [assembly line] Thus, why some find
them out of adjustment on the first inspection. The person that did yours got them spot on! Think its rare to
get them right on the first try, for most of us. We have to fiddle with them to get them "just right". Enjoy your
"New to you" PCX