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Is this something that goes out? My Honda shop tells me the unit alone is about $1000. Any ideas?

wallacem wrote:Is this something that goes out? My Honda shop tells me the unit alone is about $1000. Any ideas?

Get a second opinion?

GET a second opinion... BTW the ECU alone is less than $500 new.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda ... e2e5648bfb

What is a 1022??

Mel46 wrote:What is a 1022??

Code for a mid morning nap.

10-4. . .

To take this further, was riding my 2011 PPCx125 with 8000 miles on it, doing great, Stopped at Walmart, came back out and it would not turn over. Nothing, not a try, not a click, nothing. It seemed just like the times I forgot and left the side stand down and the little switch on it keeps the scooter from starting. Dash works, just no start. Battery is perfect. I took it to the local Honda dealer, they checked it over and came back telling me they cant find anything wrong so the factory tells them it must be the ECU. I really don't buy it. they said ECU itself is $1000. Not counting labor. Amazingly, I asked to speak to the mechanic, and both days I was there he was not there????

wallacem wrote:To take this further, was riding my 2011 PPCx125 with 8000 miles on it, doing great, Stopped at Walmart, came back out and it would not turn over. Nothing, not a try, not a click, nothing. It seemed just like the times I forgot and left the side stand down and the little switch on it keeps the scooter from starting. Dash works, just no start. Battery is perfect. I took it to the local Honda dealer, they checked it over and came back telling me they cant find anything wrong so the factory tells them it must be the ECU. I really don't buy it. they said ECU itself is $1000. Not counting labor. Amazingly, I asked to speak to the mechanic, and both days I was there he was not there????

Have you checked ebay?

GIl

So, you do not hear the fuel pump energise for a few seconds like it usually does? Worth pushing home or reseating any multi-way connectors you can get access to.

wallacem wrote:Is this something that goes out? My Honda shop tells me the unit alone is about $1000. Any ideas?

Last time my scooter didn't want to start was because of the emergency shut off switch. I flicked it on and off a few times then it just started. I haven't had the issue since, at least with the emergency shut off switch. I had the same issue with the brake light switch on the right handlebar. So, check that your brake light works and flick the emergency switch a few times. good luck .

Gil wrote:

wallacem wrote:Is this something that goes out? My Honda shop tells me the unit alone is about $1000. Any ideas?

Last time my scooter didn't want to start was because of the emergency shut off switch. I flicked it on and off a few times then it just started. I haven't had the issue since, at least with the emergency shut off switch. I had the same issue with the brake light switch on the right handlebar. So, check that your brake light works and flick the emergency switch a few times. good luck .

In those instances, do you still get the fuel pump activation for a few seconds? Just wondering as it was mentioned the dash works but no click nor anything else.

I'll have to check.

Hmmm...perplexing.

Before replacing the ECU try everything else.

To start, your switches could have corrosion on them. Spray some WD-40 on the kill switch and the side stand switch. Them move them back and forth. Next, make sure the battery connections are good. Sometimes they come loose from vibrations. Then try (after doing the previously suggested stuff) to jump start it through another vehicle's battery.

My point is that the ecu usually is not the problem. That does not mean that it can't go bad. It just means that it seems to be a "go to" word for mechanics now.

If you find that it may end up being the ecu, a new one is $400. A used one off of ebay could be a lot cheaper. Labor to get to the ecu may be what costs because of plastics removal. Do it yourself and save quite a bit.

Did he every get the prolbem fixed. I bet you its kill switch.

Update: No, I have not solved it yet. We have had a very cold long winter and I have been just a little bit lazy, at 77 I deserve it. I am still thinking it is a switch too. Thinking about trying to disconnect the side stand switch and checking it. Wallace

Are you in the northern part of the state or the southern part? Wet weather sometimes places havoc on switches. See if you can take the start/stop switch apart and spray it with some WD-40. Then work the switch back and forth a bit . Make sure your battery is good, and then go through the start procedure. Listen for the fuel pump when you first turn the key on. You should hear it cycle through before being silent.

I would love to help you but I live way out in Dallas, almost in Douglasville. That is a long way from anywhere.

Easy to check kill switch. Use a small screwdriver to pry out the switch. Disconnect plug from the bottom of the switch. Get a small paper clip short the connector to see if the bike starts. I had my Kill switch break on the inside I stranded 30 miles from home had the same symptoms as urs.

Guys I appreciate all your ideas, I have not gotten out there and got busy with it because it has been such a cold winter. The idea of the kill switch, I never use it so makes me wonder if that is good or bad. I personally, think it could be the kick stand switch because that is the only part that moved from the time I cut it off and parked it until I came back out and tried to start it. Been thinking about maybe taking it over to Dublin Ga to the Honda shop ober there. It is about 45 miles from here.

pcx888 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 17, 2021 6:38 pm Easy to check kill switch. Use a small screwdriver to pry out the switch. Disconnect plug from the bottom of the switch. Get a small paper clip short the connector to see if the bike starts. I had my Kill switch break on the inside I stranded 30 miles from home had the same symptoms as urs.

Or rather than dismantling your kill switch, just unplug and use a meter across the terminals to create a circuit.

I will have a look in a bit on some fault diagnosis pages I downloaded from Honda MARIS, the technical manual download portal I use from time to time and see if there’s any clues there. I’m wondering if a kill switch would throw a fault code. From memory I think not but there is something in my head saying I’ve read something which advises you would get a fault code or an indication through performing a certain diagnosis procedure if the ECU was bad. I’ll check later and let you know if it helps.