changing fork seals

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 2:15 am

Can anyone post the page of the repair manual for changing the fork seals please. Specifically looking for how the slider comes apart from the fork leg.

Or if anyone has done this and can advise? Is there a bolt to remove at the bottom of the slider (which can be tricky from past experince with forks)?

gn2 · Post by **gn2** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 6:16 am

Have you tried a Seal Mate plastic card seal cleaner yet?

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:06 am

To be fair, I haven't tried the 'seal mate' but really not sure how much of a permanent(ish) fix it would be.

Slight leak on the seals was first brought up 2 years ago at the MOT (so seals probably are past their best) and I have already bought the seals, dust covers and fork oil. I think I would prefer new seals in there for peace of mind. I just can't see anywhere the procedure is documented.

gn2 · Post by **gn2** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:39 am

What state are the stanchions in?
Any corrosion?
If there's no corrosion a seal mate should sort any slight leakage.
If there is corrosion new seals will soon be trashed.

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:41 pm

Stanchions do appear ok but I will be checking them over once I get them off the bike. You can buy new stanchions separately if they are needed - once the forks are apart anyway! lol

Going to get the forks out and see if replacing seals is straightforward, if not I will get a seal mate. I have done fork seals before but the process has tended to vary.

DAB · Post by **DAB** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 3:41 pm

Where in Nottingham, I have a manual

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 4:43 pm

I live in Nuthall DAB. Thanks for the offer, I have been in the garage this evening and figured out how they come apart. There is no way the bolt at the bottom of the forks is coming out, so I have bought a 'seal mate' rather than changing the seals.

I dont like giving up, but this has me beat for the time being. I used the correct allen key, but the bolt socket has rounded. I can still change the fork oil which is a partial victory!

homie · Post by **homie** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:51 pm

And we await the detailed results on this product. I have one but yet to use it.

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Thu Mar 10, 2016 3:54 pm

Will report back, but I am not using the bike until April. It will then be used daily.

homie · Post by **homie** » Thu Mar 10, 2016 4:02 pm

Robbie wrote:Will report back, but I am not using the bike until April. It will then be used daily.

As much as we would all like to learn and see a video about tearing down the front forks i'm betting on the fact you don't need new fork seals. Just a gentile clearing of dirt and or minuscule debris from the original seals. Have you recently strapped down the front end for long periods of time? For example shipping preparation or crated the PCX?

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Thu Mar 10, 2016 6:52 pm

I have only just bought the scooter homie and have had it stripped down for a thorough check over - hence the desire to get everything just right.

Leaking seal was first picked up 2years ago at the mot, but its a pretty minor leak. It was mentioned as a "misting seal" and I would say its still the same 2 years on. Stanchions are in good condition so hoping the seal mate sorts it out.

jcpeden · Post by **jcpeden** » Fri Mar 11, 2016 5:16 am

I took delivery of my 2011 PCX last night and the forks are pretty grimy. Is this indicative of worn out seals that need replacing?

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:00 am

If there is oily residue down the forks, then yes, they may need changing. Mine was a really slight leak - just the dust cap slightly damp.

Worth trying a 'seal mate' tool to see if you can fix it that way as I will admit, getting the forks apart is a swine of a job if the bolt at the bottom of the leg is stuck in place.

jcpeden · Post by **jcpeden** » Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:15 pm

Something to get inspected when it's next serviced perhaps? The bike was serviced and MOTed in January so leaky seals would have at least been an advisory. Perhaps it's just grime from the road. I'll clean them down and see if they pick up any gunk over the course of a few days of riding.

honkerman · Post by **honkerman** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 7:15 pm

Robbie wrote:I live in Nuthall DAB. Thanks for the offer, I have been in the garage this evening and figured out how they come apart. There is no way the bolt at the bottom of the forks is coming out, so I have bought a 'seal mate' rather than changing the seals.

I dont like giving up, but this has me beat for the time being. I used the correct allen key, but the bolt socket has rounded. I can still change the fork oil which is a partial victory!

Ooh, that's no good. You'd have to drill it out...and I'm not so sure you'd want to do that on a fork leg. Yeek! Can't think of a way to get the seals out without first getting that retainer bolt loose. You could try an easy-out on it...that sucks man.

jcpeden · Post by **jcpeden** » Fri Mar 25, 2016 12:58 pm

jcpeden wrote:Something to get inspected when it's next serviced perhaps? The bike was serviced and MOTed in January so leaky seals would have at least been an advisory. Perhaps it's just grime from the road. I'll clean them down and see if they pick up any gunk over the course of a few days of riding.

Local bike mechanic said they'd blown and would have to be replaced as a pair. Pointed out that it looked like the fork oil had gotten onto the disc so recommended replacing the rotor and pads as well. Excessive? Plenty of stopping power at the moment.

you you · Post by **you you** » Fri Mar 25, 2016 1:11 pm

So many ifs and but and dreaming of potential problems...

A decent ride out might clear the mind.

gn2 · Post by **gn2** » Fri Mar 25, 2016 1:56 pm

jcpeden wrote:fork oil had gotten onto the disc so recommended replacing the rotor and pads as well. Excessive?

Definitely excessive.
Disc not porous so a quick wipe down with degreaser and all will be good.
Pads probably ok if you get them cleaned quick.

honkerman · Post by **honkerman** » Fri Mar 25, 2016 2:38 pm

jcpeden wrote:
jcpeden wrote:Something to get inspected when it's next serviced perhaps? The bike was serviced and MOTed in January so leaky seals would have at least been an advisory. Perhaps it's just grime from the road. I'll clean them down and see if they pick up any gunk over the course of a few days of riding.
Local bike mechanic said they'd blown and would have to be replaced as a pair. Pointed out that it looked like the fork oil had gotten onto the disc so recommended replacing the rotor and pads as well. Excessive? Plenty of stopping power at the moment.

Without looking at them, myself, I can't say, but if the lower housing is intact and the uppers are undamaged, there is no reason the bolts cannot be removed with the proper tools. Definitely best to replace the seals in both at the same time. Pretty much standard practice really.

As for the brakes, if the pads are inundated with oil, they should be replaced. They are cheap enough that replacing them is simply cheap insurance against a catastrophe. The rotor, as GN2 stated, is metal and can be cleaned with contact cleaner (brake cleaner, carb cleaner, parts cleaner, whatever). The only reason to replace it would be if it is warped to the point of being outside the mfg specs, or gouged and grooved badly, pitted, rusted, and so one.

Again, without actually seeing and handling the parts myself, I can't give any exact answers.

jcpeden · Post by **jcpeden** » Fri Apr 01, 2016 9:28 am

What do we think then guys? Assuming I need new seals, clips and dust covers I'm looking at £40 in parts.

I think I'll start by cleaning what's already there and topping up the fork oil to see what happens. I might then try some seal mate and see if that stops any visible leakage.

Pads seem absolutely fine to be honest, I've had to do a few heavy-handed stops and haven't noticed any issue with them.

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