Noob - Need a little info on PCX150 drive/driven assemblies

[Jsarv03]

Hey guys,
First time poster looking for a bit of info. I do not own a PCX scoot but am looking to fit some PCX parts on my 87' Elite 150 (CH150) I found NYC? NCY? Drive and driven performance assemblies that strongly resemble my CH150 assemblies. The counter weights also measure the same @ 15x20.

Little background, I have a turbo CH150 - ported head, ferrea comp plus custom +1 valves, Wiseco custom 9.5-1 piston. RB31 IHI turbo, CH250 carb set up for draw through, CH250 camshaft.

Last year it was mostly stock and broke an exhaust stud so it became this.... I had issues with belt slipping and CVT "gearing" changes... The weights are too heavy, the rear spring is too soft and the clutch itself was slipping.

With that being said I don't have alot of options and even though my brother is a machinist and made a ton of custom fittings and parts for this all to work, neither of us have access to the proper broach to make my own set and the price for a custom broach is extremely high.

If anyone has the drive or driven parts of a PCX and could measure or help me out in any way that would be great.

I'd like to be able to put the power to the wheel next spring.

Thanks!

Jerod

I tried to attach a picture but apparently it is too big. I'll work on getting some pictures posted.

[Oyabun]

Welcome to the forums Jerod.
All I can say you are started on a very slippery slope and seemingly already slid quite far. My guess that you will have quite a few issues coming up which are far more serious than a broken exhaust stud.
But it sounds like an insanely awesome project. ;-)
While I have serious doubt that the PCX transmission would be able to get your power to the ground - I'm more than happy to volunteer with the measurements.
Just post what do you need.

[Jsarv03]

Thanks for the reply!
I'm not a stranger to forced induction or making power out of small displacement engines. I have a SFWD Honda Civic that went from a garage project to 950+ whp. Its actually funny how this all started, picked up the scooter for next to nothing and a few friends made a joke about throwing a turbo on just anything and it escalated from there.

From all of the info I have found the driven spline count and clutch design of the PCX is different. Apparently the CH150 was the only Honda scoot to use a different spline count and grease filled variator. The CH150 uses a 22 spline 11mm minor 12mm major. The next step is 16mm and the final step of the rear shaft is 20mm. Obviously different bearings could be used to accommodate shaft size and clutch housing diameter, but I do believe the spline count ruins it all.

From everything I have found tonight I should be able to use PCX variator weights, GY6 large rear spring and clutch springs. From everything I've found the only aftermarket/performance clutch springs and large spring (I dont know the name of the large spring in the rear) are made for the GY6. I have not found any performance parts for a PCX either.

I'm slowly learning how each part effects the others and what to expect with changes. What I found was acceleration to 30mph was decent but slow from 30-50, but 50-70 was pretty intense for a little scooter. So I'm not sure if this was due to belt slip, improper weight, or clutch slip.

I do believe this thing only made 8-9 hp from the factory and I'm sure I wont make more than 15-18hp if I'm lucky.

any input, advice, ideas, or even trolling will be acceptable.

This is sort of the "winter project" this year and trying to keep a decent budget on it while making it road ready for the spring. Typically the only use for the scoot is at the track, running from the trailer to the pits and back to the trailer during runs. Also used heavily for burnouts....

[Oyabun]

OMG. I remember the elite now. It is soooo but ugly eighties.
It was really futuristic and still looks like a UFO. I love the front suspension and the front lamp not to mention that the whole roller is 102 kgs.
I had a feeling that you had some things to do with serious automotive mods - as not many would just accidentally stumble upon a properly sized turbo and matching lower compression piston, fabricate a draw through carb setup which then he can dial in fueling at least to a point to get it running to a point to start building a drive train for the setup. ;-)

Once you get your head around the basics, a scooter transmission is fairly simple.
I'm on my mobile so quite limited on being able to post links and long text but there are quite a few threads already posted with relaxant info. (Just look for my posts I have quite some with dyno charts and tech info as a start).

In short the dip is most likely caused by the characteristics of the stock variator, roller weights and turbo spool characteristics combination. As engine operation rpm is controlled by the variator it might not allow the engine to rpm levels to get the turbo spool up enough to provide enough boost. Unlike with a traditionally geared vehicle on a scooter the CVT characteristics heavily affects the power curve. The factory PCX vario keeps revs at about max torque for the first acceleration part up until around 50 kmph, then drops revs to be more economic and by the time the rollers get locked out completely it gets back to the power band.
That's why many cases it is beneficial to dyno the engine with a locked vario to separate engine and transmission effects.
The good new is that there are tons of aftermarket/performance stuff available for the PCX and as the Honda variator system is patented they tend to use same or very similar stuff to keep costs low (that's why many of the vario parts are interchangeable between the older Gy6 and the PCX also). One place to start looking is website Japan, but in case you're in Europe Malossi and Polini might be more accessible.
The large spring at the back is called the so called contract (or torque) spring which is working against the push of the roller weights pushing the drive faces together - it is needed to counteract belt slip so you most probably need a stronger one. Clutch is a simple centrifugal unit where the springs are governing the launch rpm where the shoes will attach to the inner surface of the clutch bell. Installing a stronger one raises the clutch action reducing strength lowers it. You want to balance it that the turbo already spools up while the engine revs up freely, but not too high to still be able to manouver around pitlane.

As I said it sounds like a fun project for the winter. Try to get a bit more familiar with the operation of the CVT by some further reading and get back if you have spacifi questions. I have a complete original honda vario and a malossi multivar 2000 at hand what I can make measurements on.

P.s. if you provide your location in your profile it helps us to give you directions on where to get aftermarket stuff.