Honda SH Mode 125 Specs and Feedback

[Tomtic2]

Hi Everyone, having had a couple of PCX's over the years and moving on to bigger bikes, I purchased a Honda SH Mode 125 last year and just wanted to offer some feedback. The Mode is slightly different to the SH 125i - slightly smaller, slightly less power, but (in UK at least) significantly cheaper by about £900. Was it a good buy? Overall yes, I'm 5'10" and fit well on the bike. With a 16" front wheel (14" rear) it turns well, and keeps up with most traffic on single carriageway roads in the UK - max 58-60 mph. It is out of it's depth on dual carriageways and motorways of course. Average (UK) miles per gallon is 120, so not bad at all. My first PCX 125 (2007) got better than this, but emission rules have somewhat dropped the mpg over the years.
Now if you look at the power of the SH Mode 125 (8.4kW or 11.26 hp) and the weight (118kg) you get a power to weight ratio of 0.0954. Then compare this to the heavier but slightly more powerful SH 125 you get: power (9.6 kW or 12.87 hp) and weight (136.5kg) giving a power to weight ratio of 0.0903 which is slightly LESS than the lighter SH Mode 125! I believe the PCX fits in between the SH 125i and the SH Mode 125 in terms of power and weight. In summary, the SH Mode 125 does not feel significantly less powerful than the other two models. But remember the cheaper price of the SH Mode 125. Underseat storage is certainly less than the other two, as the fuel tank is under the seat, but the scooter does come with an integral rack that allows a cheap universal top box to be fitted.
Although the SH Mode 125 is a massive seller in the far east (Thailand, Vietnam etc) some specs are extremely difficult to obtain. However, thanks to my local dealer (Lloyd Honda in Carlisle) I managed to get the valve clearance specs as follows: Inlet 0.10 (+ or - 0.02) and Exhaust 0.24 (+ or- 0.02). Everything else is in the owners handbook that comes with the bike. I have been servicing my bike myself and will do the valve clearances at 8000 miles (now at 5500 miles) even though the schedule says to do them at 4000 miles. I remember not doing my old PCX's until 7500 miles even though the schedule stated 2500 miles.
I hope this info helps. There are some very good videos of how to remove panels on the SH Mode 125 on Youtube but nothing I could find on how to check the valves. Apart from the 4 valve setup I imagine it will be very similar to the old 2v PCX valve check.......ie remove half the body work!
Any questions just ask away and I will do my best to help.
Tom.

[pintail120]

I could not find any youtube videos on how to remove panels, please could you post a link on how to remove panels ?
thanks & regards
Gavin

[Tomtic2]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
YouTube links include:-

[https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dCSPXQFfwEk]

[https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=obv3ReUbyTc]

These are both in Vietnamese but the video is very professional. You may find additional vids about the SH125i from these people as well, which could help with valve clearance checks etc.
Unfortunately, in the west Honda seem to be doing their best to make us take the scooter to a main dealer for servicing. This is such a shame as scooters like the PCX had a great amateur following years ago, and all servicing info was available.
Hope this helps.
Tom.

[Tomtic2]

***** Update @ 7200 miles *****

Today I checked the valve clearance on the SH Mode 125 for the first time. The service schedule states this should be done every 4000 miles, but my experience with the two PCX's I've had persuaded me to leave it a bit longer.
The inlet valves were spot on at 0.10 mm, but both exhaust valves were a bit tight at 0.20mm (should be 0.24 +/-0.02mm). I opened them up a little to 0.26mm assuming the exhaust valves will tighten up over time. I don't intend checking them again until 15000 miles.
*Note: I've read some comments on here where people assume that because 'it's a Honda' the valves don't need checking until you can here valve noise. I respect that everyone is entitled to their opinion, but my experience with scooters and motorbikes suggest that exhaust valves almost always tighten up over time. If valve clearances are reducing (ie tightening) I doubt you would hear any valve train noise. I would prefer to check them at least every 10,000 miles.

I also fitted a new sparkplug and inspected the drive belt and clutch for wear.

*** Observations:
1. replacing the sparkplug is VERY difficult. Since I had already removed most of the back panels in order to check the valves (just as with the PCX) the job was made a tiny bit easier, but it's still difficult. I managed to do it with a stubby ratchet drive and socket. Unlike the SH and PCX, Honda have not fitted a sparkplug inspection hole in the panels. It means you have to remove most of the back half of the bike to inspect the sparkplug. It is possible to do it from underneath without removing most of the panels, but I promise you it is very risky. The risk of cross-threading the sparkplug as you refit it is very great.
2. This is the first ESP+ 4-valve engine I have worked on. I don't believe the 4 valve head offers many (any?) advantages over the older ESP 2-valve head. My first 2012 PCX gave an average 130 mpg (UK) over 10,000 miles. The ESP+ 4-valve engine only gives me 120 mpg in the SH Mode, and is slightly slower than my old PCX. If you have an ESP engined bike my advice is stick with it, there are few if any benefits to upgrading to the latest 4 valve heads. Maintenance is certainly a bit more complicated.
3. And finally, just as with my old PCX's.......I broke a tab off of one of the panels. Even though I was trying to be very careful. Classic Honda. Those of you who have owned Yamaha scooters will know that it doesn't have to be like this......four bolts and you have unrestricted access to the engine!

Hope this info helps if you own a Mode.
Tom.

[Henry900]

You have been very helpfull for me .Tomtic2 thank you. I have an sh mode 2021 have done 24800 miles and want to replace the sparkplug myself this time.Can you tell me please did you remove all the back panels or what did you remove and what size socket did you use for sparkplug.(sorry my english i im from Greece)

[Tomtic2]

Hi there. Sorry for the delay in replying. I found the safest way to fit a new sparkplug was to remove the rear panels and the boot / luggage box under the seat. Part number 81250-K1N-V00. Also the front panel below the seat (part number 80151-K1N-V00ZB). This gives you more space to see what you are doing and get your hand in. I would recommend watching this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=obv3ReUbyTc before starting this job, just to see how to get the panels off. I do not have the sparkplug size available at the moment, but I will get it for you tomorrow.
Please note: it is possible to fit a new sparkplug without removing the panels, from underneath the engine. But it is very difficult. The long thread of the sparkplug makes it difficult to see the sparkplug hole.
If you are a confident mechanic you will be okay, but if this is your first Scooter I would suggest getting an experienced friend to help. If you remove the panels you will be able to check the valve clearances too.
Good luck.
Tom.

[Jge64]

remember one of the easiest ways to see what the heck is going on underneath the engine is to use a bathroom mirror. The kind your significant other uses to brush her hair -the handheld kind… It makes working on the underside so much easier.

[Tomtic2]

That's true Glen, I've used that technique myself many times. The main problem with the SH Mode is being able to get a ratchet in and view where the new sparkplug is entering the hole ( to avoid cross threading). Hopefully Henry900 Wil manage all right.

[Tomtic2]

Hi again Henry900. The sparkplug socket you will need is a 14mm. Remember a short ratchet drive will make the job easier too.
Tom.

[Tomtic2]

and
https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code ... lFxB9kAhVy should help!

[Henry900]

Thank you very mutch Tomtic2 for all the help, really usefull ! I changed the sparkplug ,it was difficult as you said becauce my ratchet was a bit longer but luckfully i have small hands .Didn't use a mirror just removed the panels carefully after watching the video many times to pay attention to detalies.Only thing left now is valve clearence and as i see it back panels have to go off to remove the seat for more room.Thank you again

[Tomtic2]

We'll done !
The valve clearance adjustment is a bit more fiddly than the old 2 valve engine but just take your time and you will be fine. If this your first time checking valve clearances remember only make very small adjustments. And you will have saved yourself a lot of money!
Good luck.
Tom.