2012 PCX150 Final Reduction Noise?

[Ralf_CT]

Greetings all!

I bought my 2012 PCX150 in 2016 with only 135 genuine kms on the clock, it has now done just under 7,000kms. It has never been abused, I always ride alone, oil changes have been regular, including the final reduction (same MB oil as the engine, as per the manual). From day 1 it has been relatively 'noisy' when being pushed into the garage, or when turning the rear wheel (backwards or forwards) - both with the engine off. It now seems to be getting worse.

I was always under the impression it was a normal sound coming from the final reduction gears. Can someone substantiate this, or am I facing an imminent problem?

Many thanks.

[iceman]

Search this forum for final drive (clutch bearing noise) and seatch youtube - the videos show examples of the noise.
I had that problem and replaced it with a new bearing assembly and so far been much better but never silent.

[Ralf_CT]

Search this forum for final drive (clutch bearing noise) and search youtube - the videos show examples of the noise.
I had that problem and replaced it with a new bearing assembly and so far been much better but never silent.

I think this is your video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwTV35bQgDw), mine sounds the same, particularly noticeable when pushing it back into a quiet garage, or turning the wheel, even slightly. Is this the driven face bearing? Then I can just order the part and hire a torque wrench for the nut.

I'm reluctant to currently ride as I wouldn't want it to fail at speed and possibly lock the rear wheel.

[Mel46]

That is not very many miles on it so unless it is really screaming you may be OK until the parts come in. We had 10,000 miles on ours when the bearing got so bad that to have it replaced. It is cheaper to replace the assembly than to replace the two suspect bearings, and the cost in time is less as well.

[iceman]

I rode on mine for over a year and it road fine, just annoying noise. The bearings cost hardly anything, just need to replace and add grease but unless you can do it all yourself, cheaper outside the EU to purchase the whole assembly - about $40 but over £110 in the UK last time I checked (+vat and shipping!)

[Ralf_CT]

Apparently there was an issue with early bearings. What brand were they and which brand should I get to avoid a recurrence of the problem? I can get the two driven face bearings locally ex. Honda for roughly USD30, I may need to get an engineering shop to remove and refit. Should I also replace the cover seals and gasket, or can they be reused?

[oldgoat]

My 2015 with 7000kms has exactly the same noise as demonstrated in the video link. I had no idea I had a problem.

[Ralf_CT]

My 2015 with 7000kms has exactly the same noise as demonstrated in the video link. I had no idea I had a problem.

I previously downloaded a PCX150 YouTube video where the rear wheel was spun without the clutch, belts and pulleys installed, it sounded pretty much the same as in the video and was put down to a normal final reduction sound. I'll try and find the link, the video was titled "Cogged belts & bearings".

Mine is 'noisy', I'll only know for sure whether it's the driven pulley bearings once I strip.

[oldgoat]

thanks ralph

[Ralf_CT]

thanks ralph

I've given this noise issue some thought. Based on the design, the bearings function as follows:

1. Driven pulley radial bearing: this rotates only when the engine is idling and the scooter stationary;
2. Driven pullet needle roller bearing: this only partially rotates as the driven pulleys open and close;

Once the clutch locks, the final gear shaft rotates, transmitting drive to the wheel via the final reduction gears (the final gear shaft rotates in its own bearings). The 'noise' most of us attribute to the clutch/driven face bearing should be heard at idle if the /clutch/driven face' bearings are faulty, these bearings are stationary once underway.

This would explain why the video I mentioned above shows the 'noise' we hear, as being a normal final reduction gear noise (in the video the belt and clutch are removed).

[Mel46]

I can say with certainty that the best way to hear the noise without other noise interference is to turn the bike off, put it on the center stand, and spin the back tire. Go both directions, and if you hear a grinding noise then you can bet the bearings are going. During the 2012 thru 2015 production of these bikes Honda had a problem with the supplier not only not packing the bearings with enough grease, but also using some inferior bearings. It took years before they purged all of the bad ones from their supply. Yet, throughout this entire problem Honda never issued a recall. Most of us got stuck with the cost of parts plus labor in replacing the bad ones. There are two bearings that have the problem. That is why those who can do the work themselves often opt to replace the entire assembly. It is quicker and they can pack the bearings themselves to make sure they get enough grease.
...and that is the history of the problem.

[oldgoat]

Thanks Mel

[Ralf_CT]

I can say with certainty that the best way to hear the noise without other noise interference is to turn the bike off, put it on the center stand, and spin the back tire. Go both directions, and if you hear a grinding noise then you can bet the bearings are going. During the 2012 thru 2015 production of these bikes Honda had a problem with the supplier not only not packing the bearings with enough grease, but also using some inferior bearings. It took years before they purged all of the bad ones from their supply. Yet, throughout this entire problem Honda never issued a recall. Most of us got stuck with the cost of parts plus labor in replacing the bad ones. There are two bearings that have the problem. That is why those who can do the work themselves often opt to replace the entire assembly. It is quicker and they can pack the bearings themselves to make sure they get enough grease.
...and that is the history of the problem.

I can't find the original video showing the normal noise with the clutch removed and the rear wheel spun. I would love to credit the original author, but am unable to do so. Here's the Google Drive link, the normal noise is shown at 3:35: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cop3ZH ... sp=sharing
I thought it a good idea to share this as many have replaced the clutch/driven face bearings but noticed no difference in noise levels, in that case there's a strong likelihood they incurred the unnecessary expense of replacing perfectly fine bearings, which doesn't make sense to me.

[oldgoat]

Thanks for that link Ralph. Full of useful little nuggets of info.