Fitting new LED spotlights

[BRTID]

I'm about to fit new LED spots. Like these https://www.lazada.vn/-i104830101-s1058 ... =true&mp=1

I've read that some of the fisheye LED spots with the luminous ring (various colours - mine are red for travelling in fog and mist), occasionally alternate between high/low/luminous ring upon starting and stopping the engine. Which could very well mean that having two of them mounted results in having one on high and the other low.

So, I'm wondering if the are any auto-electricians or experts in the field who have encountered this problem/solved this problem/have suggestions to Prevent this problem. I'm imagining that it's as a result of earth leakage or problems with load on the circuit intermittently due to the electronic idle start on/off switch. If this be the case, then is it best to put a diode between the power cable or earth cable to prevent this occurring. I'm not an expert, but I've previously read about a similar subject years ago where a diode in the wiring solved this type of problem.

Anyone care to comment? tia

And before anyone cares to comment about how cheap and nasty they are and I should buy a better brand, don't bother. I'm not looking for that advice - thankyou very much.

[Mel46]

First of all, were the problems you described on the newer bikes or those that are in your bike's age? I ask this because the newer bikes have LED headlights and circuits, which can not handle as many add-ons as the older bikes.

Secondly, if attaching directly to the bike circuit so that the lights come on when the bike is turned on, I would always use a diode in order to make sure there is no bleedthru from other sources.

[BRTID]

Thnx. On the ground or power side of the wiring Mel46?

[BRTID]

First of all, were the problems you described on the newer bikes or those that are in your bike's age? I ask this because the newer bikes have LED headlights and circuits, which can not handle as many add-ons as the older bikes.

Secondly, if attaching directly to the bike circuit so that the lights come on when the bike is turned on, I would always use a diode in order to make sure there is no bleedthru from other sources.

Sorry about the short reply. I'm guilty of skimming your reply.

The bike is a 2010/11 model. I am going to use as a guide the Bosch supplementary guide for using relays - which covers a number of different uses with good clear circuit diagrams.

But I was still concerned about the 'sensitivity' of the internal circuitry of the LED spots to voltage/current instability of the supply rail on the bike. There are a number of youtube clips which I had a look at to try and discover if anyone had resolved the issue as it's not just a PCX issue per se. One of the more let's shall we say, cruder solutions, was to open the LED and disable the high/low/ring function chip on-board the PCB of the LED spot. But I really want to maintain the options of having all three available as the OEM headlights are shit, to say the least, on the bike at present. And downright dangerous at night on unlit roads to depend upon, because it's not unusual to have potholes as deep as a man on the main roads without any signage or safety barriers. Anyway, that's sort of besides the point.

Thanks for your suggestion and I'll see how it all pans out I guess.

[Mel46]

Hot side (power). The ground is common to all circuits. It goes directly to the frame, no matter where you connect the ground wire.

As far as the original headlights, I totally agree. That is why I purchased some HS5 bulbs that don't have the painted "hood" on top.

These:

flytop-HS5-Motorcycle-Bulb-12V-35-30W-1-Pair-Super-White-P23T-Blue-Glass-5000K-Halogen.jpg_640x640.jpg (121.03 KiB) Viewed 1079 times

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Pair- ... 82740.html

Not These:

images.jpeg (3.01 KiB) Viewed 1079 times

[BRTID]

ooooOh. I'll spot some of those and make the switch. Thanks for the heads up.

[BRTID]

Hot side (power). The ground is common to all circuits. It goes directly to the frame, no matter where you connect the ground wire.

As far as the original headlights, I totally agree. That is why I purchased some HS5 bulbs that don't have the painted "hood" on top.

These:

flytop-HS5-Motorcycle-Bulb-12V-35-30W-1-Pair-Super-White-P23T-Blue-Glass-5000K-Halogen.jpg_640x640.jpg

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Pair- ... 82740.html

Not These:

images.jpeg

So these just slot straight into the same fittings without any mods Mel46?

[Mel46]

Yes. However, it is not easy to reach up in the back and do the swap. It took me less time to take the bike apart than to bust my knuckles getting them swapped. However, they are well worth the effort.

[BRTID]

JHCIAB. Fat chance my ex-steel-workers mitts are going to get up there then. I'll see what prevails when I get the triple tree bearing adjusted soon. I'm pretty sure I had access to them at that stage. Thanks for the warning. If I have to resort to my own devices I'll resort to the tried and tested method of getting half-cut before I attempt the feat. That and using some good old vaseline on the outside of the paws sometimes has the desired effect

[Mel46]

Headlights on.jpg (196.91 KiB) Viewed 1056 times

After taking my bike apart umpteen times I pulled my headlight assembly all together and upgraded the main bulbs while adding places in the assembly for lights that may already exist in yours.

This is what mine looked like after I finished wiring it. Yours may be different in that the lights all work on yours already. In the United States only the main bulbs are installed.

Complete.jpg (269.93 KiB) Viewed 1056 times

[BRTID]

Your job looks neat. Did you retrofit a new fitting for the lower parking lights? The only thing I like to ad to a wiring job is enough slack on the loom so that one multi-pin connector can be used to disconnect a whole assembly making removal of a panel easier.. I hate having to disconnect multiple plugs to remove a panel.

Here's a shot of the lights I have ordered. And the parking LEDs I've installed recently.

headlight H5.jpg (44.44 KiB) Viewed 1036 times

Parking_lights.jpg (33.91 KiB) Viewed 1036 times

And a couple that show the difference in spread. of the parking LED to the old main headlight.

[BRTID]

Having trouble attaching as couple more photos to the post so this is an addendum. And a couple that show the difference in spread. of the parking LED to the old main headlight.

Both2.jpg (32.96 KiB) Viewed 1033 times

both3.jpg (19.81 KiB) Viewed 1033 times

[Mel46]

Ooooohhh, your main lights suck!

I think you will see a world of difference once you install those new lights. You chose well, young Jedi.

Since you are working on your headlight assembly, here is another idea for you. If I remember correctly, don't the bikes over there use the top lights in the assembly as turn signals? If so, change the sock for one that can handle a multi-function bulb (like the 1157, 3157, etc. that can do high beam and then low beam). Then order a switchback LED bulb that can be a turn signal or a standard white bulb. You will have to do some additional wiring to attach the extra wire to your headlight wire, but that would give you two more headlights. Make sure you measure the present bulb length to make sure the new bulbs will fit. Just a thought. Here is a site that has them.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/ ... ack+bulbs/

[Mel46]

That was suppose to say change the socket but autocorrect did not like what I wrote.
Amazon any other places also have switchback bulbs. Just search online using the term "Switchback led bulbs".

[BRTID]

That was suppose to say change the socket but autocorrect did not like what I wrote.
Amazon any other places also have switchback bulbs. Just search online using the term "Switchback led bulbs".

Yes. We have the indicator for the top gutter-side and driver-side area. I will look to do that in the near future. Thanks for the site.

I have a question for you Mel46. To take the front light assembly out, do I need to remove any of the centre console or side panels? Or is it just the visor and chrome plastic and then you can remove the light assembly complete?

And yes, those lights pretty goddam awful. The bottom left right are only 8W LEDs. Gives you an idea of how poor they are.

[Mel46]

Unfortunately you have to take panels off, starting from the back, all the way to and including the center "T" cover and the covers over the ignition and the glove box. Then you have to take at least one of the front side panels loose. The bolts that hold the headlight assembly on can only be accessed from the back of it.


Don't worry, with a little patience you can do it. There is a page in the service manual that tells you the order in which each panel comes off. In fact, the entire service manual refers back to pages relating to what needs to be removed in order to get to various sections or parts. If you don't have a service manual, get one or pm me. I will help you as best I can. I have taken mine apart quite a few times now.

Here is a picture of the last time I took it apart...or maybe it was the time before. In any case, keep track of what screws and bolts go to what area. I do this by having 6 or 7 magnetic bowls, one for each area. You could just use Styrofoam and mark each area on it, sticking the screws and bolts face down into it as you go.

Don't be afraid. You CAN DO IT. Patience is the key.

My bike torn down.jpg (364.52 KiB) Viewed 993 times

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