The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hi guys I have a kit Big Pit kit yuminashi 164 Honda pcx. Today I get the cable that is synchronized between the pgm and the computer in the direction of it's enough, I went through everything and I just want to be sure, does anyone know where the AFR tab is located into the program i download from yuminashi site ? And what is the best ratio for 164cc
thanks

adam1711 wrote:Hi guys I have a kit Big Pit kit yuminashi 164 Honda pcx. Today I get the cable that is synchronized between the pgm and the computer in the direction of it's enough, I went through everything and I just want to be sure, does anyone know where the AFR tab is located into the program i download from yuminashi site ? And what is the best ratio for 164cc
thanks

That's a tough questions to answer, the best AFR. You might need to get some books on the subject. Besides the AFR you also need to set the ignition advance and such. I believe that the OEM AFR is a narrow band sensor and won't be good enough to help tune your engine. Some peeps in here might be more helpful than myself.

Gil wrote:

adam1711 wrote:Hi guys I have a kit Big Pit kit yuminashi 164 Honda pcx. Today I get the cable that is synchronized between the pgm and the computer in the direction of it's enough, I went through everything and I just want to be sure, does anyone know where the AFR tab is located into the program i download from yuminashi site ? And what is the best ratio for 164cc
thanks

That's a tough questions to answer, the best AFR. You might need to get some books on the subject. Besides the AFR you also need to set the ignition advance and such. I believe that the OEM AFR is a narrow band sensor and won't be good enough to help tune your engine. Some peeps in here might be more helpful than myself.

hi man
thanks for the answer well you right i need to set the ignition and i wnt to rev limit,
i have all parts in my pcx so i have no problems.
164 big bore
camsgaft cnc yuminashi
valve spring
open air k&n filter
35mm thorttle body
31/35mm injector
pgm fi controller

if someone can help with this to send me A file that has already been prepared on dyno
for honda pcx 125 upgrade to 164cc
i just want to rev limit and full mixture for best results
i have a problem with overheating because of that my friend tell me need to tuning the engine and download the afr for racing drive

I will greatly appreciate it
Thanks

Do you have a link to your fuel controller, the pgm fi. While I haven't done any engine mods on my scoot, I have been interested in finding a stand alone solution. I would prefer to use the Microsquirt ECU, but it's not a plug and play.

Gil

Try to shoot for 13.5 AFR for anything above 50% throttle and 13.2-13.0 for WOT for best performance.

Oyabun wrote:Try to shoot for 13.5 AFR for anything above 50% throttle and 13.2-13.0 for WOT for best performance.

thanks bro i try it

Gil wrote:Do you have a link to your fuel controller, the pgm fi. While I haven't done any engine mods on my scoot, I have been interested in finding a stand alone solution. I would prefer to use the Microsquirt ECU, but it's not a plug and play.

Gil

this is my pgm :
http://www.yuminashi.eu/pgm-fi-controll ... 2009-2012/

Thank you, looks like you have the right tools for the job. On the description they say "for best performance which will be around 12.6 to 12.8:1 at wide open throttle.". That and what Oyabun said.


Gil

i try tuning manual in the pgm fi but cannot to rich the AFR. can upload only the RPM , IGNITION AND ACCELERATION . the air is mean acceleration?

So, to enrichment the fuel mixture it has to be done with the knobs on the computer it self?

Gil

You need a programming cable from Yuminashi to do accurate setup.
The three knobs allow crude fuel adjustments for three rpm ranges (similar to a carbs float level, needle and main jet adjsusts for low rpm, low load, cruise, hard accel) . The ignition adjusts spark advance) retard for the full rpm range, and acceleration works as an accel pump on a carburator.
Zoi can measure afr with an installed afr meter, wideband lambda sensor, or gas analyser. Best to set up fueling and ignition on a dyno, otherwise one needs a data logger and/or a clean empty road and lots of luck.
I suggest you educate yourself on tuning principles first. Learn importance of repeatable conditions, study topics including detonation due a lean condition, AFR tuning, effects of ignition advance and retard on knock and engine power.
A dull born Yuminashi kit has fairly high compression to start with, any fcukup with fueling can cause a thrown rod.

Gil wrote:So, to enrichment the fuel mixture it has to be done with the knobs on the computer it self?

Gil

yes i see in YouTube some video on grom
He explains there all the tabs in the software but his software is older than mine. I understood more or less what everything does, but I want to be sure that so I will not make a mistake. i spend alot of money in this kit. There is the issue with the ignition and the cooling fluid. High, I would be happy if someone could shed light and help a friend, thank you very much

Oyabun wrote:You need a programming cable from Yuminashi to do accurate setup.
The three knobs allow crude fuel adjustments for three rpm ranges (similar to a carbs float level, needle and main jet adjsusts for low rpm, low load, cruise, hard accel) . The ignition adjusts spark advance) retard for the full rpm range, and acceleration works as an accel pump on a carburator.
Zoi can measure afr with an installed afr meter, wideband lambda sensor, or gas analyser. Best to set up fueling and ignition on a dyno, otherwise one needs a data logger and/or a clean empty road and lots of luck.
I suggest you educate yourself on tuning principles first. Learn importance of repeatable conditions, study topics including detonation due a lean condition, AFR tuning, effects of ignition advance and retard on knock and engine power.
A dull born Yuminashi kit has fairly high compression to start with, any fcukup with fueling can cause a thrown rod.

thanks for your help bro I'll learn everything, the truth is that this engine really leaves dust on the road
very strong for little hp

In fact, I'm willing to pay for a prepared file that has been run on dyno, If anyone has a forum here with suitable details for my model, I can send it as a whole. I want to enrich the mixture and not get at all to a poor mixture throughout the rpm, and rev limit
i have cable program for a.p.i tech
thanks

If I'm guessing correctly about the grom video you watch. He is using the standalone ecu and Yuminashi/API tech software is different from the piggyback versus the standalone. Standalone software has more option versus the piggyback software.

adam1711 wrote:

Gil wrote:So, to enrichment the fuel mixture it has to be done with the knobs on the computer it self?

Gil

yes i see in YouTube some video on grom
He explains there all the tabs in the software but his software is older than mine. I understood more or less what everything does, but I want to be sure that so I will not make a mistake. i spend alot of money in this kit. There is the issue with the ignition and the cooling fluid. High, I would be happy if someone could shed light and help a friend, thank you very much

Im not sure what head you're running with the 164 cylinder. If you're still on 125 head then the water ports don't truly align between head gasket passages and head ports. That would give you issues with cooling. You could try using copper head gasket spray on the head gasket that will help you for a while but best solution is getting a 150 head installed. 150 head water ports match perfectly to 164-169 kits (I'm not sure for 175 as I've never seen that size cylinder in my hand), and that pretty much eliminates the overheating issues. I still use copper spray anyway as its a good insurance though. by getting 150 head installed power and torque goes up too and its quite noticeable. Don't forget,when putting back the coolant in as well, its a 30min process of bleeding the system thoroughly before she is good to go...

Pcxdemon wrote:Im not sure what head you're running with the 164 cylinder. If you're still on 125 head then the water ports don't truly align between head gasket passages and head ports. That would give you issues with cooling. You could try using copper head gasket spray on the head gasket that will help you for a while but best solution is getting a 150 head installed. 150 head water ports match perfectly to 164-169 kits (I'm not sure for 175 as I've never seen that size cylinder in my hand), and that pretty much eliminates the overheating issues. I still use copper spray anyway as its a good insurance though. by getting 150 head installed power and torque goes up too and its quite noticeable. Don't forget,when putting back the coolant in as well, its a 30min process of bleeding the system thoroughly before she is good to go...

Hello
I am a new member
I have a pcx 125 V1 {2010} with full set yuminashi 164cc for 2 years and I am very pleased.
I have to ask, I think to put pcx150 head and forza 35mm TB, to proceed? what will I win, will I have a problem?
I have a 35mm throttle body from SH 300 I think is the same with forza 35mm TB ,thank you and sorry for my English, it's from translation

I use forza 35mm TB and Chameleon intake manifold from webike, it's match made in heaven. 150 head upgrade on 125 model is a must with bbk. That'll solve your overheating issue. I use 169 takegawa cylinder with split gasket for higher comp, yuminashi cam, takegawa fi con fuel controller from 125 model with yuminashi 6 hole injector, takegawa exhaust, mfr2 vario (modded) with Dr pulley weights and I've got so much power/torque it's insane... 300's can't touch me.