PCX top speed

[Mgalutia88]

I weigh between 165-170 depending on the week lol. The Givi 322 is the small Givi screen. I have a large screen, however I'm saving it for colder weather.

[Mgalutia88]

While we are on the topic of top speed, what is the most cost effective way of gaining power in the upper rpms? Exhaust?

[sendler2112]

I am looking to bump up my pcx125 top speed capability by a few mph. I

The PCX125 is generally limited by both power and redline to about 62 mph. You can go longer with the gearing via a bigger tire or sliders but without more power it might not go any faster on a level road. My PCX150 would do about 66 mph when new. That started to dip to 63 with some belt wear in. And is mow back up to a redline limited 69 with 12 gram DrPulley sliders.

[dasshreddar]

I am looking to bump up my pcx125 top speed capability by a few mph. I

The PCX125 is generally limited by both power and redline to about 62 mph. You can go longer with the gearing via a bigger tire or sliders but without more power it might not go any faster on a level road. My PCX150 would do about 66 mph when new. That started to dip to 63 with some belt wear in. And is mow back up to a redline limited 69 with 12 gram DrPulley sliders.

sendler what are the stock 150 slider weights? and are you using the stock variator with the dr pulleys?

[Pcxdemon]

I am looking to bump up my pcx125 top speed capability by a few mph. I

The PCX125 is generally limited by both power and redline to about 62 mph. You can go longer with the gearing via a bigger tire or sliders but without more power it might not go any faster on a level road. My PCX150 would do about 66 mph when new. That started to dip to 63 with some belt wear in. And is mow back up to a redline limited 69 with 12 gram DrPulley sliders.

sendler what are the stock 150 slider weights? and are you using the stock variator with the dr pulleys?

Its best to replace vario for top speed increase.Sliders wont increase top speed much at all and if replaced weight for weight with stock rollers then its almost waste of time if done for performance cause. Sliders are little bit better than rollers but not that much by and best thing about them is they will last well over 25+k without needing maintenance. If anyone wants optimum performance out of their 125/150 Pcx then the weights have to be set for 8k rpm wot acceleration. It really brings out the best out of the Pcx engine without adverse fuel economy effects (thats for stock and aftermarket varios). Now someone will say 8k RPM?! But remember thats only on wot when maximum power is needed otherwise normal riding half throttle takeoffs rpm would sit at say 6.5-7k rpm and thats more than enough to stay ahead of traffic from the lights and cruise..If i remember correctly stock weights on 125cc (15g) WOT is 6900rpm initially and then torque driver drops them to 6200rpm at 60kmh...makes the big power drop between 60-80kmh where after 80 starts picking speed up again.. So you're always full throttling to stay ahead of traffic in stock form and full throttle all the time means more fuel...Also Kitaco rear spring is very good upgrade,its shorter and not that much heavier than stock spring so it doesn't impede top speed performance and will make throttle response always snappy. It will also reduce the mid power drop that the torque driver characteristic displays with stock spring..

[sendler2112]

sendler what are the stock 150 slider weights? and are you using the stock variator with the dr pulleys?

I'm using the stock variator and the stock weights for my PCX150 were 18 gm. The DrPulley sliders are 12 gm and now pull at around 8,000. I also installed a tach. This was the only weight I could buy at the time and I thought they would be too light but after living with them I wouldn't make them heavier. My fuel economy continues to rise to about 103 mpgUS as I go past 5,000 miles on the bike.

[Mgalutia88]

So what's the theory behind the torque driver? Does an aftermarket one increase midrange power? What are the top three choices?

[sendler2112]

So what's the theory behind the torque driver?

Changing the rear pulley to one with a different torque slot won't change the engine power. Aftermarket front and rear pulley sets can be set up to operate the trans at a higher rpm when pulling so you are running at the power peak for better acceleration and they also give a longer final ratio for a faster top speed. Down hill at least for 125's since they are generally limited by horsepower to 62 mph on the flat and by the rev limiter to 62 when going down hill. Two free mods to increase power are removing the snorkel from the air box and drilling the exhaust. Both mods let more noise out but give a slight increase in power below the hp peak once the fuel computer adapts.

[Pcxdemon]

So what's the theory behind the torque driver? Does an aftermarket one increase midrange power? What are the top three choices?

Stock torque driver has banana curved groves which offer resistance initially up to 60kmh (35mph) for faster takeoff and then without riders control shift up to say from 3rd gear straight in to a 5th. Its speed dependant and there is nothing one can do but ride it out till you get back in to a optimum power range rpm. Usually 'normal' person wouldn't even notice or be bothered with on flat terrains but when it comes to inclines (hills) or windy days or overtaking it can peg your acceleration right down and bog you on the hill climbs. There is nothing worse than feeling of driving up a hilly roads and you decide to shift from 2nd in to a 4th or similar..Unfortunately that is completely out of ones control on auto cvt in stock set up. However you can buy aftermarket torque driver with straight groves which don't allow the cvt to shift up too early but peg your rpm to the weights setting and gives you the total control of your rpms via the throttle input,so you control how and when you want your maximum power out of the engine and transmission..Once you try you will never go back to stock banana shape groves.Also i need to say it will not give you more top end,for that as i have been saying all the time is one will need to piss of the stock vario and get aftermarket one. Stock 125cc with aftermarket vario has enough power to pull 120kmh easy all day everyday and up to 125-130 on a highway or perfect road conditions...So 150 should have no problem doing any of those speeds with even with more ease.
KnPlanning has torque driver on Webike thats real good quality and fairly cheap at around $70...im using it and its very good!

[Pcxdemon]

So what's the theory behind the torque driver? Does an aftermarket one increase midrange power? What are the top three choices?

Stock torque driver has banana curved groves which offer resistance initially up to 60kmh (35mph) for faster takeoff and then without riders control shift up to say from 3rd gear straight in to a 5th. Its speed dependant and there is nothing one can do but ride it out till you get back in to a optimum power range rpm. Usually 'normal' person wouldn't even notice or be bothered with on flat terrains but when it comes to inclines (hills) or windy days or overtaking it can peg your acceleration right down and bog you on the hill climbs. There is nothing worse than feeling of driving up a hilly roads and you decide to shift from 2nd in to a 4th or similar..Unfortunately that is completely out of ones control on auto cvt in stock set up. However you can buy aftermarket torque driver with straight groves which don't allow the cvt to shift up too early but peg your rpm to the weights setting and gives you the total control of your rpms via the throttle input,so you control how and when you want your maximum power out of the engine and transmission..Once you try you will never go back to stock banana shape groves.Also i need to say it will not give you more top end,for that as i have been saying all the time is one will need to piss of the stock vario and get aftermarket one. Stock 125cc with aftermarket vario has enough power to pull 120kmh easy all day everyday and up to 125-130 on a highway or perfect road conditions...So 150 should have no problem doing any of those speeds with even with more ease.
KnPlanning has torque driver on Webike thats real good quality and fairly cheap at around $70...im using it and its very good!

Webike just updated their products available and this is just listed as of today..
http://japan.webike.net/products/21345871.html
It is an awesome value as you will get Torque driver i recommended before,two sets of weights for finer tuning,matching spring to the whole set up and vario with outer face pulley thatll be goo for 120kmh!!
Awesome price and will absolutely take care of your transmission tuning for 125cc models... I think its all same for 150cc but the only diff is the weights supplied would be too light in 150's trans..

[sendler2112]

Playing with my PCX this morning to explore the down shifting. All stock trans except for 12 gm sliders instead of 18 gm rollers. I don't feel any speed dependent change to the ability to kick down due to the slight progressive profile of the stock torque slot. At 35 mph it goes from 5,800 rpm at light cruise, right to 7,800 when I crack the throttle and drifts slowly up above 8,000 as the speed increases. I still have some active control at 50mph where it will cruise at 7,000 and crack up to 7,700. Which is slightly lower due to the progressive slot profile but is pretty close to neutral across the speed ranges. My bike redlines at 9,600 rpm and 69 mph which is fast enough to comfortably make short blasts up the interstate. I had a stiff, NCY torque spring in the back before the sliders but immediately took it back out. It raised the pulling rpm but had draw backs of lower top speed from the crushing effect on the width of the belt and power losses from the resulting extra heat.

[Pcxdemon]

At 35 mph it goes from 5,800 rpm at light cruise, right to 7,800 when I crack the throttle and drifts slowly up above 8,000 as the speed increases. I still have some active control at 50mph where it will cruise at 7,000 and crack up to 7,700.

The way to see and feel the overdrive kick in or the slump is to take of in full throttle up to say 60mph,watch your rpm lift to 6900 initially and then taper off to say 6200 or so half way thru the speed range. You can also hear the engine ease off before starts to build the sound up again up to 60mph. (stock pcx set up)
Lighter sliders or rollers will slightly shift that change point like in yours but you see how at 50mph full throttle is pegged at 7700?
Its less then just over '8k rpm' where it should sit for maximum pull as speed increases and thats the torque's driver overdrive kicked in...that little diff in rpm can rob you in extra time to 60mph,hill climbs or just overtaking for few seconds when need to have maximum power on full throttle (8k rpm)..It is noticeable once you know what to look for and annoying once you try straight grove profile slots of the aftermarket torque driver.. As i said before,most people wouldn't even notice as thats the only thing they would know and used to but....

[sendler2112]

The way to see and feel the overdrive kick in or the slump is to take of in full throttle up to say 60mph,watch your rpm lift to 6900 initially and then taper off to say 6200 or so half way thru the speed range.

This definitely never happens on my bike. I will have to capture some video of the tach and speedo as it hard to take notes while you are riding. On a 0-60 mph run, the rpm goes quickly right to 7,800 and stays there until the sliders lock out and rpms rise with speed after 55 mph or so. I don't believe I have ever seen a rise, fall, rise again rpm even with the stock rollers in my PCX150. I would have to go to 11 gm sliders to increase the pulling rpm above 8,000. I do see the torque slot profile show itself slightly when I am already going 50 mph and then gun it when the rpms seem to be initially 100 less than when gunning it from 40 mph.

[sendler2112]

here is the torque slot in my stock PCX150.
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[you you]

Ffs its only got 10hp

[Pcxdemon]

here is the torque slot in my stock PCX150.
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It's the same shape as first gen 125.
Here is the dyno power graph of how the torque drive affects power delivery to the wheel in a performance negative way..notice the power drop in mid range accelaration?
http://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1061

[Pcxdemon]

Ffs its only got 10hp

Wow...!! That would perfectly make sense if we had say 50+hp machine, I wouldn't even care about any of the mods on that thing. But on 10hp scooter every little thing counts to get every one of those 10hp to the wheel and eliminate any losses thru the transmition..besides makes it a great hobby of sorts...

[you you]

Ffs its only got 10hp

Wow...!! That would perfectly make sense if we had say 50+hp machine, I wouldn't even care about any of the mods on that thing. But on 10hp scooter every little thing counts to get every one of those 10hp to the wheel and eliminate any losses thru the transmition..besides makes it a great hobby of sorts...

What would make sense if it was a 50+hp machine?

It's got ten tweenyweeny hp

[sendler2112]

What would make sense if it was a 50+hp machine?

I think he is saying that if the PCX had 50 hp, we wouldn't feel any need to modify it.

[Pcxdemon]

Ffs its only got 10hp

Wow...!! That would perfectly make sense if we had say 50+hp machine, I wouldn't even care about any of the mods on that thing. But on 10hp scooter every little thing counts to get every one of those 10hp to the wheel and eliminate any losses thru the transmition..besides makes it a great hobby of sorts...

What would make sense if it was a 50+hp machine?

It's got ten tweenyweeny hp