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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:44 pm 
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Which size City Grips are you running?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:53 pm 
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homie wrote:
Cool... approaching Harley status where accessories are worth more than the bike.


I think of it as therapy, it's good for my mental health not to mention good practice tearing it apart and putting it back together again lol.
I do enjoy a project, everything from Home theater systems, motorcycles, computers, archery bows and more... I just can't leave well enough alone :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:56 pm 
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chicaboo wrote:
Which size City Grips are you running?


110/80 on the back, 90/90 on the front. I may use a 120 front on the rear next time and reverse the tread (which would then face the same as a regular rear) it's quite a bit wider than the stocker or the 110 for that matter, but not so far out as the 140 rear

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:21 pm 
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How much clearance do you have to the hugger and springs with the 110/80 back there?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:32 pm 
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chicaboo wrote:
How much clearance do you have to the hugger and springs with the 110/80 back there?


Tons of room to the springs, not even close to being an issue there. Hugger fender not much, perhaps 3/8" can always make a lil' jumper backet to raise it slightly if need be and use small spacers for the other fasteners back there, though tbh Gav this size tire is not noticably fatter than the stocker. The 120 is though, I'll wear this half out and change it for the 120 reversed next time out

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:48 pm 
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I'm now thinking 110/80-14 front and 120/80-14 rear might be a good combo.
It's legal here being less than 30% wider than stock. But might scrub the guards is all?
It's very hard to find those sizes within the same brand/type of tyre though...


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:52 pm 
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Yeah the city grip 120 is a 70 profile, good in a way, keeps the height about the same as the stocker and its definately wider by a decent margin, I have the 140 and the 120 on my floor right here, the 120 is perfect width wise and is as large as I'd be willing to go on the stock rim.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 7:34 pm 
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If City Grip's orientation front to back is defined by the tread direction, you could run 110/80-14 front and 120/70-14 rear since you have both of them.
Although the front tyre would be taller, the smaller OD on the rear tyres means you should still have ground clearance to it when on the centre stand.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 7:52 pm 
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If I had the time and energy I would convert my headlights. I love what you have done. However, instead of the internal changes this is what I have done. If you look at the picture of my bike you can see them. I have added on LED Cree lights down beside the front wheel, plus little LED lights under the headlights, plus four little 3/4 inch strode lights (two down below the headlights and two on the windshield by the windshield hand protection.) I have a lot of led tail lights too, but right now I am just looking at front lighting. The non-led bikes have a big disadvantage in that they can't be seen as well during daylight as the led version. Being seen is my objective. I hope my bike can be seen as well as yours can, now.
Attachment:
IMG_20170105_192131.jpg
IMG_20170105_192131.jpg [ 224.6 KiB | Viewed 431 times ]

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Givi tall windshield and tailbox on both
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:04 pm 
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Thanks.
I would think so Mel, those fork led's are really bright, one extra thing you could do is drill and file for 1156 bulb holders in the turn signals..higher is better, it's a PITA sure but low expense high return...
These are the Cree's I havent installed yet, they are going to be about 2x as bright as my current cree 1156's shown in the pics. They're projector too so the light is focused forwards in about a 60 degree arc.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111272998241?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Other than that you've really gone to town on the lighting, I would think you're highly visible as it is now.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:23 pm 
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I might upgrade my cree projectors from 5W to 7W some day.
It's an old law, but 7W is the brightest I'm allowed to run in Aus.
They don't cast any light, but they are annoyingly noticeable. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:34 pm 
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chicaboo wrote:
I might upgrade my cree projectors from 5W to 7W some day.
It's an old law, but 7W is the brightest I'm allowed to run in Aus.
They don't cast any light, but they are annoyingly noticeable. :)


Exactly! and those I linked are really bright and 7w ..perfect

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 10:30 pm 
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I dig those headlights.

Where did the switch on the handlebars come from? It looks nice, way better than the one I used to have on the bars.

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Currently ride: 2011 Honda PCX 125
Previously rides: 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (Takegawa 170cc big bore kit), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 8:33 am 
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maddiedog wrote:
I dig those headlights.

Where did the switch on the handlebars come from? It looks nice, way better than the one I used to have on the bars.


There you go...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-ATV- ... hs&vxp=mtr

And this one wasnt available when I got mine, kinda neat too...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-22mm-Motorc ... oG&vxp=mtr

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:02 pm 
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Mel46 wrote:
If I had the time and energy I would convert my headlights. I love what you have done. However, instead of the internal changes this is what I have done. If you look at the picture of my bike you can see them. I have added on LED Cree lights down beside the front wheel, plus little LED lights under the headlights, plus four little 3/4 inch strode lights (two down below the headlights and two on the windshield by the windshield hand protection.) I have a lot of led tail lights too, but right now I am just looking at front lighting. The non-led bikes have a big disadvantage in that they can't be seen as well during daylight as the led version. Being seen is my objective. I hope my bike can be seen as well as yours can, now.
Attachment:
IMG_20170105_192131.jpg


I added LED headlight bulbs to existing 2013 PCX stock headlight. Added the halogen to a lamp fixture just below headlight. Super bright and have a modulator as well working away.

http://mimed.io/s/sg66jbn9pj4c6srqoh64cch5t7


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:35 pm 
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Looks good Frank, we need to get together in the next couple weeks…

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 2:25 am 
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Jge64 wrote:
Looks good Frank, we need to get together in the next couple weeks…


Yessir, just let me know when you're avail to meet up

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:04 pm 
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Lastest addition, latest Madmax LED tail light, shown here with brakes on and off


Attachments:
madmax led tail 2.png
madmax led tail 2.png [ 889.29 KiB | Viewed 293 times ]
Madmax led tail 1.png
Madmax led tail 1.png [ 848.79 KiB | Viewed 293 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:26 pm 
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k2apache6.0 wrote:
Yoshimura performance exhaust system. As expected from Yoshi everything is 1st class and the fitment is near perfect, bit louder thsn I'd like but hey its a Yoshimura!


you wouldn't happen to have a link for the exhaust, would you?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:32 pm 
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your " custom undertail/fender eliminator. License plate frame has built in LED lights"... are the 'lights' you mention the blinker lights, or the plate light'? I love the look, but can not find the plate eliminator, as that also changes the blinker set up. Perhaps you could be so kind as to expound on that set up, and WHERE you got it :) Thanks... LOVE your bike BTW!


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