The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

PCX vibrate shutter or rattle when you take off on acceleration 0 to 5mph you will need to clean the clutch bell and the clutch shoes with sandpaper and brake cleaner.

Done problem solved!

note not to sand the clutch shoes too much just a little bit to clean it off. Reason this happens is oil from the clutch bearing melts on to the clutch shoes and contaminants the clutch sheos outer surface where the shoes come in contact with the clutch Bell Therefore it cant make proper contact as its slipping.

amin12345 wrote:PCX vibrate shutter or rattle when you take off on acceleration 0 to 5mph you will need to clean the clutch bell and the clutch shoes with sandpaper and brake cleaner. Done problem solved!
note not to sand the clutch shoes too much just a little bit to clean it off. Reason this happens is oil from the clutch bearing melts on to the clutch shoes and contaminants the clutch sheos outer surface where the shoes come in contact with the clutch Bell Therefore it cant make proper contact as its slipping.

Normally it's believed too much slow take off glazes the clutch as they slip before gripping. The outer shield is supposed to stop grease from the final drive bearing escaping onto the clutch or inside the variator area, and oil should not be added to the clutch shaft when refitting, Honda state only add engine oil to the variator bolt before torqing. Still, oil and crap may get to places it's not.

@ amin12345

7 ounces of the service manual's specified grease packed into a bone dry (face set driven clutch) between the bearings (no more, no less) or you might experience shudder as the grease (if not quality OR too much) can melt down into the clutch outer bells inner race. Contaminating the clutch shoes with oily residue will result in shudder and sanding of the shoes alone will only give temporary relief from the juttery acceleration. You must take a contaminated clutch shoe one step further by heating the pads with a hot air gun to smoking temperatures burning the oily residue out of the shoes OR replace the clutch shoes entirely to completely escape this relatively harmless but irritating shudder.

On the other hand if too little grease is packed you may get what many have seen in the past where one or both of the bearings inside the assembly fail and a grinding sound from the rear wheel becomes the topic of discussion. I learned this the hard way but did save my rather expensive stock clutch by heating the old grease out of the bearing area and carefully repacking with proper (quantity and quality grease) per the service manual to get this most delicate and sensitive balance of mechanical genus to work properly.

homie wrote:@ amin12345

7 ounces of the service manual's specified grease packed into a bone dry (face set driven clutch) between the bearings (no more, no less) or you might experience shudder as the grease (if not quality OR too much) can melt down into the clutch outer bells inner race. Contaminating the clutch shoes with oily residue will result in shudder and sanding of the shoes alone will only give temporary relief from the juttery acceleration. You must take a contaminated clutch shoe one step further by heating the pads with a hot air gun to smoking temperatures burning the oily residue out of the shoes OR replace the clutch shoes entirely to completely escape this relatively harmless but irritating shudder.

On the other hand if too little grease is packed you may get what many have seen in the past where one or both of the bearings inside the assembly fail and a grinding sound from the rear wheel becomes the topic of discussion. I learned this the hard way but did save my rather expensive stock clutch by heating the old grease out of the bearing area and carefully repacking with proper (quantity and quality grease) per the service manual to get this most delicate and sensitive balance of mechanical genus to work properly.

Thanks Homie, I haven't replaced or touched the grease since I brought this Pcx and since I cleaned the clutch I am almost to 500 miles and no shutter as of yet.

amin12345 wrote:PCX vibrate shutter or rattle when you take off on acceleration 0 to 5mph you will need to clean the clutch bell and the clutch shoes with sandpaper and brake cleaner.

Done problem solved!

note not to sand the clutch shoes too much just a little bit to clean it off. Reason this happens is oil from the clutch bearing melts on to the clutch shoes and contaminants the clutch sheos outer surface where the shoes come in contact with the clutch Bell Therefore it cant make proper contact as its slipping.

Easy DIY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dcv5bS5MOrY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k49XKBFiQBQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMiER8k5y30

Did mine last week. 13,000++km

7 ounces of grease ??!! That's a lot of tablespoons of grease!
I think he means 7 grams.
Fish

What is that white paste he is applying to the pads and inside the clutch bell??

easyrider wrote:What is that white paste he is applying to the pads and inside the clutch bell??

Some kind of clutch pad grease perhaps? I don't understand the language (Indonesian). When I did mine, I didn't put anything. I just use brake parts cleaner to clean everything.

easyrider wrote:What is that white paste he is applying to the pads and inside the clutch bell??

It might be a degreaser of some sort.


Gil

homie wrote:@ amin12345

7 ounces of the service manual's specified grease packed into a bone dry (face set driven clutch) between the bearings (no more, no less) or you might experience shudder as the grease (if not quality OR too much) can melt down into the clutch outer bells inner race. Contaminating the clutch shoes with oily residue will result in shudder and sanding of the shoes alone will only give temporary relief from the juttery acceleration. You must take a contaminated clutch shoe one step further by heating the pads with a hot air gun to smoking temperatures burning the oily residue out of the shoes OR replace the clutch shoes entirely to completely escape this relatively harmless but irritating shudder.

On the other hand if too little grease is packed you may get what many have seen in the past where one or both of the bearings inside the assembly fail and a grinding sound from the rear wheel becomes the topic of discussion. I learned this the hard way but did save my rather expensive stock clutch by heating the old grease out of the bearing area and carefully repacking with proper (quantity and quality grease) per the service manual to get this most delicate and sensitive balance of mechanical genus to work properly.

Thanks for that explanation homie. It would explain why letting the clutch slip on purpose, by holding the brake, would also help with the shuddering issue. The shuddering of my scoot has gone away after heating the clutch after letting it slip for a few seconds. Haven't really noticed it lately. Will look for great on the clutch bell next time I'm in there.


Gil

My 2013 PCX150 shuddered to bad I was ready to roll it into a ditch and burn it. Then I found an article from someone in Indonesia that fixes the problem by installing friction shoes from an Elite 110 in place of the stock friction shoes. I tried it, and it pretty much cured the problem. They are a bit lighter, so the engine revs a little higher on take off, which is not a bad thing.

I took the clutch apart, serviced everything and put it back together with the 110 friction shoes. Much better.