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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:38 am 
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A couple weeks ago my 2013 PCX 150 started making a loud clicking sound at idle, telltale sound of the cam chain tensioner gone bad. I've never more than changed the oil or replaced the brake pads on my PCX 150. I called the local (Honolulu) Honda motorcycle service center to get an estimate. They wanted over $700 to diagnose and fix the cam chain tensioner! So, I figured I'd have to do it myself. This is specific to the 2013 PCX 150.

Part you need to replace (this was my old/broken tensioner):

Image

Parts you will need (LINK - diagram on Partzilla):

Tools:
  • 10 mm socket
  • 12 mm socket
  • Phillips head screwdriver

NOTE: For reference, kiapolo's topic originated here: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=8279&p=114494#p114494
~WN~


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:38 am 
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Step One - Remove the seat and Center Cover (page 2-10 of the service manual)

Image

Relatively straightforward. Bike will look like this afterward (don't mind the junk in my luggage box):

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:47 am 
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Step Two - Grab Rail Cover, Grab Rail, and Body Cover (page 2-20, 2-21, 2-23)

Image

Image

Two screws and some tabs to release the grab rail cover. Four bolts to remove the grab rail.

Image

There is supposed to be 8 tapping screws. My bike only had 6 installed. Remove the screws, two bolts, unplug the brake lights, then gently remove the body cover. the screws under the cover and at the very front are a pain. Almost lost a screw in the very front portion. Bike will look like this afterwards:

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:48 am 
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Step 3 - Luggage Box Removal (page 20-7, 2-25).

Remove the battery lid and unhook the battery strap.

Image

Remove six bolts then lift out the luggage box. Be mindful of which color bolts go where.

Image

Once the luggage box is removed, your engine is laid bare before you.

Image

Image


Last edited by kiapolo1887 on Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:48 am 
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Reserved....


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:02 am 
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Step Four - Move the Throttle Body out of the way (page 7-15)

Image

The throttle body covers the cam chain tensioner (circled in red) and needs to be moved to replace the part. Thankfully you don't need to completely remove the throttle body out. Loosen the two screws (identified as "insulator band bolts [2]" on the second picture on page 7-15 of the service manual) then disconnect the two black electrical connectors on the throttle body. Then you can slip the hose off the intake pipe and move the throttle body out of the way. Cover the intake pipe with a rag to prevent anything from falling into the engine. There is no need to remove the throttle cable or the the other hose.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:22 am 
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Step Five - Replace the Cam Chain Tensioner (page 10-8)

Your engine should look like this:

Image

Don't try to remove the screw in the center of the tensioner. It's factory over tightened. Some users report needing an impact wrench to remove. Forget it. Just purchase a separate screw and o-ring identified above.

Take out the two bolts and the tensioner will lift right out. If the gasket didn't come off, remove it as well. You'll know the tensioner is broken when it is retracted (short). There is a spring & ratchet that pushes a rod in the tensioners against a skid plate that keeps tension on the cam chain and prevents the rod from retracting. When it breaks the tensioner rod retracts and looks like the pic in the first post.

Image

My tensioner came with a small plastic piece that inserts into the hole/screw head under the screw at the center of the tensioner. Inside the hole under the screw is a screw head (flat head) that if turned allows the tensioner rod to be retracted. If you don't have that plastic piece (or a $100 Honda tool as seen in the service manual), once you take out the screwdriver from the hole, the tensioner rod fully extends. If you have the plastic piece/tool, simply turn the tensioner rod screw with the plastic piece/tool until the rod is completely retracted and leave the plastic piece in the hole. The plastic piece will prevent the tensioner rod from fully extending. Then you can install the gasket and tensioner, tighten the bolts, then take out the plastic piece, which will then extend the tensioner rod, applying the correct amount of tension on the cam chain.

If you don't have that plastic piece/tool, then you'll need a second pair of hands to hold the flat head screwdriver in place in the tensioner rod hole while you bolt in the tensioner in place. Once bolted in place, then you can remove the screwdriver. You will not be able to install the tensioner if the rod is fully extended.

Once bolted, install the o-ring and phillips screw. Reinstall the throttle body and fire up the bike to confirm proper working order.

Image

If everything is in working order then proceed with reinstalling everything you just took apart!

Hope this helps!

My flickr album with all these pics and pics of the service manual: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kiapolo/a ... 6236049029


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:28 am 
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maddiedog discusses the cam chain tensioner in his How-To: Install a Big Bore Kit post (very helpful): viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2939


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:02 pm 
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I tip my hat to you :) Your picture perfect step-by-step will be very helpful for those in need, those interested and those that are learning... (like Me)
~Cheers and Happy Trails kiapolo~

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:37 pm 
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Thanks! Hope I never have to do this :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:56 pm 
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Aloha ,
How many miles did your bike have when you did the tensioner?

Thanks James


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 10:02 pm 
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I did the chain tensioner on my 2013 scoot at 7700 miles.
Great write up by the way.

Gil

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 2:09 am 
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Excellent writeup.

I'd add one small detail. Honda uses J.I.S. fasteners - not Phillips standard. Even though the two are looking the same, they are slightly different shape. Phillips screwdrivers have an internal angle effectively meaning that they "cam out" from JIS heads limiting the torque can be exterted on those.
Using a proper JIS screwdriver makes easier to remove the really stubborn tensioner screw.


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