The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

I was intrigued by the shock upgrade articles referenced here and then came across this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZRL7EyF1aU&app=desktop

It's in a foreign language but beautifully presented by a fine mechanic,

The key here is that only one body panel is removed in the process - simple! No exhaust removal and no luggage compartment extraction is required,

I followed the above instructions in upgrading to YSS shocks on my 2013 PCX 150, adding some technical information and converting to a slide show which some may find more helpful than a video.

http://www.pindelski.com/Honda%20PCX%20 ... pgrade.pdf

45 minutes if you are not taking photographs. And boy, is it worth it!

Enjoy!

This is one of the finest how-tos I've seen here. Might one of the mods slide this beauty into its rightful place in the pantheon of knowledge (ie - the PCX How-To section)?

Thanks, Thomaspin.

Great guide, it should be helpful to those that haven't done any mechanical work. Great pictures also.

Gil

Top quality.

Great work Thomas,
One comment though. You got the spring preload explanation reversed. Shocks have the least preload when the ring is at the top, and as one compresses it it will have a higher preload setting. Also not to mix preload with ride stiffness. Adding preload sets the initial spring tension and sag (the initial squash of the suspension when you sit on the bike), but the spring characteristics stays the same. Firmer ride is provided by a firmer spring.

Oyabun wrote:Great work Thomas,
One comment though. You got the spring preload explanation reversed. Shocks have the least preload when the ring is at the top, and as one compresses it it will have a higher preload setting. Also not to mix preload with ride stiffness. Adding preload sets the initial spring tension and sag (the initial squash of the suspension when you sit on the bike), but the spring characteristics stays the same. Firmer ride is provided by a firmer spring.

X2

Thanks!

Seems like a real time saver. Slow and deliberate removal of the panels and disengagement of the tabbed areas results in no cracks or damage.

I've been thinking lately about what my next set of shocks will be when the OEM set wears out and the amount of work I'll have to do to replace them.

easyrider wrote:

Oyabun wrote:Great work Thomas,
One comment though. You got the spring preload explanation reversed. Shocks have the least preload when the ring is at the top, and as one compresses it it will have a higher preload setting. Also not to mix preload with ride stiffness. Adding preload sets the initial spring tension and sag (the initial squash of the suspension when you sit on the bike), but the spring characteristics stays the same. Firmer ride is provided by a firmer spring.

X2

3.

And maybe just remove and refit one shock at a time?

I have corrected the error concerning the preload settings. Thank you for pointing that out.

@ George,
and the Mods listened We thank you

It reminds me of how I installed our replacement shocks. I think I did it just about the same way. However, I found a way to take the pressure off of the shocks by throwing adjustable tie downs over the I-beams in our basement and connecting them to the frame near where the shocks connect. That also made it more stable during the upgrade, and a lot easier to work on.

Whoa, Well done. I had made the tutorial for the French forum but yours is tops!

Question, so adding more Preload for lighter weights? Is this correct? I'm puzzled because i thought more preload for more weight? No wonder mine felt like wood, i had them almost at the top. I have to change my settings...

Add preload for heavier loads....

Jge64 wrote:Add preload for heavier loads....

X2. But to be honest there is more to it than that. At least you’ll be going in the right direction

Well that's what i thought too. More preload x more weight. But when i reduce it (Im 90kgs all gear on) bike is really not confy and shocks seem to lock, (bottoming?) when i add more at least i feel suspension work but still not confy! Bloody YSS... Mine seem to be OK only when riding in duo and yet they are XL size, so meant for 90 Kg! Never had that with my former pcx with G series...

Old thread revival time! The PDF is not available at the link listed anymore: http://www.pindelski.com/Hond.... Anyone have a copy?

Its pretty straight forward. Remove the storage bin and seat. Once you remove that its just 2 bolts per shock. I can take some pictures of the what bolts and retainer pins you need to remove in order to remove the storage bin if you'd like. Its rather easy, I do it all the time.

Conelite wrote:Its pretty straight forward. Remove the storage bin and seat. Once you remove that its just 2 bolts per shock. I can take some pictures of the what bolts and retainer pins you need to remove in order to remove the storage bin if you'd like. Its rather easy, I do it all the time.

20180308_183143.jpg

Is it two bolts per shock? The uppers look like nuts with integrated washers.

you you wrote:

Is it two bolts per shock? The uppers look like nuts with integrated washers.

Each shock has:
- 1 nut on top
- 1 bolt on the bottom

I forgot since replacing my rears. Someday when UK Post decides to ship my new, better rate springs. Thanks!