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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 1:58 am 
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1.014 kms on the clock so it's time for the first service.

Manual says to change the engines's oil, check the valves and perform various checks to bolts etc but not to change final transmission oil.

I beleive that after breaking in period everything must be changed and you do no harm if you change them so i bought 2 litres of HONDA 10-30 JASO MB oil which is suitable by the manual for the engine and the final transission and proceeded.

I will show some photos of the work and i hope they will help you.

-Warm the engine idling for 3-4 minutes.
Take off the engines oil dipstick (you know the one you see the amount of oil in the engine ...spelling problems we said... :lol: ) and secure it.

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Tool No 12 for the bolt of engines oil and torque 24 Nm
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After draining old engine's oil put a new washer to the bolt (i did not it was perfectly in good contition and i always use torque tool but this is what the manual says. I bought 3 to have spare although..)and do the bolt to specified torque.
At the other side we find the bolt of engines filter.
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We undo the bolt of the brake cable to make room to work
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8 mm.No torque is mentioned.

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Undo the bolt of the engine's filter. No 17 and torque 20Nm

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Clean the filter with proper cleaning fluid and dry it well before putting it buck in place

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Before putting buck all together do not forget to inspect the rubber sealing of the bolt and put engine's oil around it. Put them buck in place. Do the bolt with the specified torque and yoy are done.

Fill with engine's oil.
Amount required 900 ml if you open and clean the filter othrwise 800ml.
Start the engine, let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
Put it off, wait 3-5 minutes and check for leaks and the proper amount of oil with your dipstick.
If it's needed put some more up to maximum.
You are done here.

Change of transmission's oil is next.
Undo the bolts.
The short bolt is the checking bolt and the long one is the drain bolt.
Torque for them is 23 Nm.
New washers the manual says are required jere too. I did not put new because they were in good condition.
After the oil has been drained, spinning the wheel slowly by hand, put the drain bolt back to place, 23Nm of torque and fill the transmission with oil from the upper hole untill you see the oil coming out of the hole. 160ml are required. Specified oil SAE 10-30, JASO MB.
Put back the bolt, do it with the specified torque and you are done.

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Go for a ride of 5-6 kms to warm up everything.
Let it cool and check for leaks.

You are done.

Hope that will help you.

I 'm not a proffesional engineer so if this is followed it's done of your own risk.
Greetings from our Sccoter Hellas Forum. :D

PS : Please be eviroment friedly and DO NOT through away used oils to darains etc but only to specified conteiners or speciallists who collect used oil and recycle it. 1 litter of used engine's oil can contaninate 1.000.000 litters of drinking water. Forgive any mistakes of spelling, there is not enough time to go buck and correct them.

Valves were not checked because idling speed and consumption is just right so in my opinion they do not to be checked.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 4:57 am 
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Nice how to. Showing socket sizes good idea.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 5:31 am 
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Good guide but there were already several good tutorials with step by step guides and pictures on this forum for main and final drive oil change - by Maddie and others.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 7:26 am 
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Alibally wrote:
Nice how to. Showing socket sizes good idea.

Thank you.
I hope it will help.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 7:34 am 
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iceman wrote:
Good guide but there were already several good tutorials with step by step guides and pictures on this forum for main and final drive oil change - by Maddie and others.


Thank you i hope it will help.
Sometimes there are different points of view.
To what type of oil we use as an example.
I believe that every point of view should be expressed so i have put mine. ;)
Now someone who wants to do this by himself can choose whatever he thinks as more appropriate for him and his bike.

If you want feel free to include this in one other topic or do all of them one.
Thank you again.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 10:33 am 
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Did you find any swarf in the oil of the final drive?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:37 am 
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Nice... read this thread - a much easier alternative to the papers you show on the ground. I can do an oil change in 5 min with no tools ...I am in a condo where you can't work on your scooter but this is so quick with no mess I can do it quickly. The valve JDB uses is flat, mine sticks down a couple MM, but is still way above the pipe or frame stop. 2 months and no problems.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5034&hilit=oil

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:43 am 
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ONTWOWHEELS wrote:
iceman wrote:
Good guide but there were already several good tutorials with step by step guides and pictures on this forum for main and final drive oil change - by Maddie and others.


Thank you i hope it will help.
Sometimes there are different points of view.
To what type of oil we use as an example.
I believe that every point of view should be expressed so i have put mine. ;)
Now someone who wants to do this by himself can choose whatever he thinks as more appropriate for him and his bike.

If you want feel free to include this in one other topic or do all of them one.
Thank you again.

Yes iceman that's true. But I agree OTW. I saw something in his photo's that I did not see in the other(s). One simple difference, makes a difference. Perhaps not to you. Hey!! I love pics anyway :P
So Thank you OTW, I appreciate the time it took for you to share your first service with us. Very Good Job!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 12:44 pm 
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you you wrote:
Did you find any swarf in the oil of the final drive?

No it was perfectly clean !
In the engine's oil nothing too except the filter as you saw there were some remains from something rubber, sealing compound i assume.

I examined the oil too carefull about any swarf because after the draining i pure it to special disposal container to be disposed proparly.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 1:21 pm 
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Jge64 wrote:
Nice... read this thread - a much easier alternative to the papers you show on the ground. I can do an oil change in 5 min with no tools ...I am in a condo where you can't work on your scooter but this is so quick with no mess I can do it quickly. The valve JDB uses is flat, mine sticks down a couple MM, but is still way above the pipe or frame stop. 2 months and no problems.

http://hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5034&hilit=oil

Very clever idea !
Thank you for sharing.

I believe that 2 of them must be bought because there is the the matter of the draining of the oil filter i perform each time i'm going to change engine's oil and change of final transmission's oil as well (no big deal every 8.000 kms i believe).

At present time i own 3 scooters (the PCX is given as a present to my younger daughter and a YAMAHA CYGNUS X 125i to my elder daughter, SH 300 is mine ). I should buy at least 3 of these valves for something which costs nothing and i always wear gloves when i mess with engines oil before cancer of skin is dangerous. Spilling any oil is not an option but in case of something done by accident (never happened) are put newspapers (cost nothing. allredy read :lol: ) there just in case. ;)

The worst thing i hate is the cleaning of the containers after the job is done and they must be stored.

If such a valve is used with a pipe - tube oil (just engine's) would go straight to the special container i put used oil for disposal and that is very good but unfortunatelly it doesn't solve problems with transmission's oil change and filter so whats the benefit for me ?

Just earning some minutes.
Not big deal. ;)

It's a good idea although and i did not know about it .
Thank you again !

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 1:35 pm 
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WhiteNoise wrote:
ONTWOWHEELS wrote:
iceman wrote:
Good guide but there were already several good tutorials with step by step guides and pictures on this forum for main and final drive oil change - by Maddie and others.


Thank you i hope it will help.
Sometimes there are different points of view.
To what type of oil we use as an example.
I believe that every point of view should be expressed so i have put mine. ;)
Now someone who wants to do this by himself can choose whatever he thinks as more appropriate for him and his bike.

If you want feel free to include this in one other topic or do all of them one.
Thank you again.

Yes iceman that's true. But I agree OTW. I saw something in his photo's that I did not see in the other(s). One simple difference, makes a difference. Perhaps not to you. Hey!! I love pics anyway :P
So Thank you OTW, I appreciate the time it took for you to share your first service with us. Very Good Job!


Thank you again.
As an old motorcyclist i believe in sharing and help between our fellow riders and i do the best i can in English of course which is not my language and i try hard to write down some thoughts and i can not expess the way i do and so on but i try at least.....

Help in spelling, corections to any mistakes are more than welcome !

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 1:56 pm 
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Not from me, your English is better than mine

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 2:09 pm 
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The rear end oil is a no-brainer, just a small container underneath it. But regarding the valve, It's as easy as taking the tube and snap lock connecting it to the valve, which opens it up automatically it's very ingenious ....I have it on my car and the scooter, I don't spill a drop

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 3:01 pm 
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you you wrote:
Not from me, your English is better than mine

:lol: Yes i see now the title i gave...<<TRANSIMISSION..>> :oops: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 3:03 pm 
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Jge64 wrote:
The rear end oil is a no-brainer, just a small container underneath it. But regarding the valve, It's as easy as taking the tube and snap lock connecting it to the valve, which opens it up automatically it's very ingenious ....I have it on my car and the scooter, I don't spill a drop

Yes it's very good and if i find any here i will buy one for start. ;)

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