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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 4:15 am 
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Back it off a bit and retighten, either use a torque wrench or tighten approx 1/8 -1/4turn past hand tight

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:53 pm 
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Or get a new washer. There probably about 30 pence

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 3:11 pm 
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Alibally wrote:
Or get a new washer. There probably about 30 pence


It may come to that… But you'll have to completely remove the oil to change the washer, before you do that, just see if it's a little bit of debris between the case and the washer ...,loosen and retighten

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 3:22 pm 
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I tightened it up a bit not too much as it was fairly tight. Surprised how the oil can seep through considering the bolt needed to be removed almost all the way before the oil poors out (when changeing the oil). Seven hours after tightening and when I went home all look ok - at least no oil patch or oil on the centre stand.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 9:13 pm 
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I have never owned a scoot before but I'm a pretty hands on guy

will def be changing my oil myself and will certainly refer back to this thread thank you all for posting this :)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 11:42 pm 
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Blazinby wrote:
I have never owned a scoot before but I'm a pretty hands on guy

will def be changing my oil myself and will certainly refer back to this thread thank you all for posting this :)



Good for you. It's all the bike really needs other than inspections, you'll save yourself a fortune.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 7:36 pm 
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Everything went fine with changing the oil until I tried to remove 8mm bolt holding rear brake line (see original photo on this topic) in order to access the 17mm bolt for the oil filter. The bolt sheared in the middle of it and I am left with about 1/2 the bolt stuck inside with no clear way to get it out.

It appears to only hold the rear brake cable up and out of the way ... but I would love to hear your thoughts and advice/solutions.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 6:16 pm 
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philjohnston wrote:
It appears to only hold the rear brake cable up and out of the way


This is a correct assumption.

You *could* use something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/URREA-1-8-in ... /202797902 but the PCX's engine block is soft aluminum, and not worth risking damaging. If you're uncomfortable drilling it out, I'd just leave it and zip tie it if you can find a spot to secure it to.

Otherwise, honestly, don't worry about it and go ride. It'll be fine. The brake line is in a rigid liner, and will function perfectly well without being tight against the bike at that spot.

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Currently ride: 2011 Honda PCX 125
Previously rides: 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (Takegawa 170cc big bore kit), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 4:19 am 
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depthman wrote:
Fiah wrote:
The scooter does not have a wet clutch like motorcycles do, so you can use any motor oil. That is, you can use the same stuff that you'd use for a car. Honda recommends 10W30 or 10W40. AFAIK, it is never a problem to use a 5W30 or a 0W30 instead of a 10W30. I use Castrol 5W30 (Castrol Edge I think?) because that was the cheapest 30 weight 'synthetic' that I could get my hands on. I say 'synthetic' because few if any oils sold today are truly synthetic. Your Honda shop would probably use 10W40 for motorcycles (specifically, with the JASO MA certification), because that's what they use for every motorcycle. It doesn't really matter, although using a thinner oil (within specification!) will probably result in slightly less fuel consumption. I could tell though after the shop used 10W40 (instead of the 5W30 I used) just before winter, the PCX was a bit more grumpy in the morning after that. Fuel consumption was up too, but you can't really know whether one caused the other.


The manual says 10W-30, and specifically that "ENERGY CONSERVING" oil is NOT recommended. ALL the 10W-30 I saw at K-Mart is ENERGY CONSERVING, except for the "high mileage" oil. I guess that's fine to use?? I'm about to do my first oil change (2500 miles, dealer did the 500 mile with valve check).


Yes, I believe Honda's advice to avoid oils with certain additives is due to the following.
The PCX, in particular the latter design, has an engine that is made to reduce friction by means of a special coating on the engine itself. That coating, if I am not mistaken, may be degraded by the additives in 'special' oils. I thought that seemed counter-intuitive when I first read it, but I am not a Honda-trained engineer, I am only a D.I.Y. mechanic bike owner.

Perhaps going to a shop other than K-Mart, in order to get a better range of oils, is a good idea.
I use Honda's Ultra G2 semi-synthetic, which is only about 1,100 Yen (maybe 11 U.S. dollars) for a litre. That's 25% more than I need for one change, so 4 can is 5 changes for only - perhaps - 55 dollars.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 4:53 am 
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pxc-in-japan wrote:
depthman wrote:
Fiah wrote:
The scooter does not have a wet clutch like motorcycles do, so you can use any motor oil. That is, you can use the same stuff that you'd use for a car. Honda recommends 10W30 or 10W40. AFAIK, it is never a problem to use a 5W30 or a 0W30 instead of a 10W30. I use Castrol 5W30 (Castrol Edge I think?) because that was the cheapest 30 weight 'synthetic' that I could get my hands on. I say 'synthetic' because few if any oils sold today are truly synthetic. Your Honda shop would probably use 10W40 for motorcycles (specifically, with the JASO MA certification), because that's what they use for every motorcycle. It doesn't really matter, although using a thinner oil (within specification!) will probably result in slightly less fuel consumption. I could tell though after the shop used 10W40 (instead of the 5W30 I used) just before winter, the PCX was a bit more grumpy in the morning after that. Fuel consumption was up too, but you can't really know whether one caused the other.


The manual says 10W-30, and specifically that "ENERGY CONSERVING" oil is NOT recommended. ALL the 10W-30 I saw at K-Mart is ENERGY CONSERVING, except for the "high mileage" oil. I guess that's fine to use?? I'm about to do my first oil change (2500 miles, dealer did the 500 mile with valve check).


Yes, I believe Honda's advice to avoid oils with certain additives is due to the following.
The PCX, in particular the latter design, has an engine that is made to reduce friction by means of a special coating on the engine itself. That coating, if I am not mistaken, may be degraded by the additives in 'special' oils. I thought that seemed counter-intuitive when I first read it, but I am not a Honda-trained engineer, I am only a D.I.Y. mechanic bike owner.

Perhaps going to a shop other than K-Mart, in order to get a better range of oils, is a good idea.
I use Honda's Ultra G2 semi-synthetic, which is only about 1,100 Yen (maybe 11 U.S. dollars) for a litre. That's 25% more than I need for one change, so 4 can is 5 changes for only - perhaps - 55 dollars.

Whoops, I mean 44 dollars.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 9:20 am 
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there's a K-Mart in Japan...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 3:54 am 
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homie wrote:
there's a K-Mart in Japan...

Yeah, there may well be, but with a motorbike parts shop about 200 metres from my house, I will likely never visit that K-Mart. A litre of Honda Ultra G2 semi-synthetic for 1100 Yen or 11 dollars is just fine by me once every 4,000 kilos.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 8:22 am 
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OK then change that oil at 600 purely for inspection. Get a magnet an examine the used oil and see if you have anything disturbing to report. I bet not, so don't bother with the screen filter because that will bust your knuckles or completely round off the soft nut if you don't have the right tool. If you insist on checking the screen filter prepare to grind down a perfectly good socket face to a sharp finish and use a breaker bar. You shouldn't need a new 'O' ring but there are kits available from Honda and other sources.

btw... just in case you didn't read maddie's how to, thats not the drain plug :lol: that's a very tight, spring loaded screen filter to catch fairly large pieces of metal that I would be concerned if I found some. Don't over fill as the crank will be splashing in the pan and that's not right. Good luck


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 8:37 am 
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PCX-Japan, do read maddie's procedure and don't drain the gearbox oil wondering why there was so little that came out because that's too funny :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 4:08 pm 
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pxc-in-japan wrote:
homie wrote:
there's a K-Mart in Japan...

Yeah, there may well be, but with a motorbike parts shop about 200 metres from my house, I will likely never visit that K-Mart. A litre of Honda Ultra G2 semi-synthetic for 1100 Yen or 11 dollars is just fine by me once every 4,000 kilos.



That's heavy.

Man

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 1:48 am 
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homie wrote:
Get a magnet an examine the used oil and see if you have anything disturbing to report. I bet not, so don't bother with the screen filter because that will bust your knuckles or completely round off the soft nut if you don't have the right tool. If you insist on checking the screen filter prepare to grind down a perfectly good socket face to a sharp finish and use a breaker bar. You shouldn't need a new 'O' ring but there are kits available from Honda and other sources


Thanks for the very useful information! ;)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:54 pm 
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Thanks guys I successfully finished the oil change and now it sounds just a bit sweeter again. I managed to round the bolt head as i couldn't find the right size socket and used a spanner. I got a new bolt and washer from Honda and banged on an imperial socket slightly smaller than the 12mm one. Having coated the whole area with wd40 the night before i tweaked the rounded bolt and she came out easily. Phew.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 7:53 am 
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Recently I went to a shop to have a oil change and found out they over fill it. My dipstick level was at the main stick area above the cone area by 10mm. Drain out 200ml so I suspect they just pour 1L in. The pervious shop I went also over fill it but is above the max line. I guess they just pour whatever in to it.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 9:42 am 
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The big reason that cars and bikes are over filled is people go to the manual, see what the capacity of the oil fill is , and put that in. And thats usually too much , because some portion of the old oil didn't drain from before, so you end up with more than you need. Much better is to look at the capacity, put in 80% of that capacity, and then in 2 ounce increments, put that in until the level is mid stick.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 10:30 am 
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jdpeachey wrote:
Thanks guys I successfully finished the oil change and now it sounds just a bit sweeter again. I managed to round the bolt head as i couldn't find the right size socket and used a spanner. I got a new bolt and washer from Honda and banged on an imperial socket slightly smaller than the 12mm one. Having coated the whole area with wd40 the night before i tweaked the rounded bolt and she came out easily. Phew.



I don't remove the sump bolt anymore but use an oil evacuation pump. Wish I'd known about them years ago

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