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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 5:52 pm 
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Depends what your tightening.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 10:46 pm 
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Jge64 wrote:
I own both corded and cordless impact guns… The corded Dewalt is obviously much more heavy duty and can pull a lug off a wheel at 100 foot pounds. Whereas the craftsman cordless one will not, but is great for tightening a lug. I think it all depends on how tight that 17 MM is for the oil screen. And a impact driver is a manual item that you hit with a hammer and it twists quickly. Much cheaper, but maybe hard to use in this particular situation.

If I could only own one , it would be the Dewalt corded unit off Amazon.I can swap wheels on the vette almost as fast as NASCAR pit crew with it.
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Will probably get an impact driver... Already poured fresh oil in. Will attempt the oil screen again during next oil change (in about 1,500 miles). Got it: no tightening things with impact driver. You guys are awesome!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 12:15 am 
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Sorry if I am stupid, but I have a 2013 PCX150 (my wife's) and a 2015 PCX150 (mine, to replace the 2014 Forza so my wife and I can ride toether). The 2013 is due for its first oil change (overdue on time, not nearly due on mileage, so I am not concerned), so I found this thread. A couple of issues. Our 2013 does not look anything like the photos of the 2011 in the first post. I can find the dip stick and the oil drain plug, but I cannot find the bolt / cover for the oil screen, there is simply nothing that looks like that, plus there is no brake line that needs to be moved out of the way. Ditto for the 2015, except I think the oil drain plug is near the bottom of the side of the engine instead of on the bottom. What am I missing here? I do need to find the oil screen cover and bolt!

Also, if I do find it, I am concerned about the comments saying folks rounded the bolt using the recommended 17mm socket. I see recommendations for a spanner wrench. I don't know what a spanner wrench is, so I checked on amazon.com. There are a dozen different types of wrenches called a spanner wrench, none of which look suited to remove the oil screen cover, so what the heck to I need to get so I don't bugger this up once I find it?

Thanks!

Mechanically retarded...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 1:03 am 
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Don't get over concerned about rounding the bolt. Take your time and use the proper socket and it will work fine. Just because you read it once does not mean they all do that. I'll be home in a day and will copy the shop manual pic of the screen for you and post here.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 10:30 am 
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OK, thanks. I know what the screen looks like, I just don't know where it is located! I hope the pic will show that!

Jge64 wrote:
Don't get over concerned about rounding the bolt. Take your time and use the proper socket and it will work fine. Just because you read it once does not mean they all do that. I'll be home in a day and will copy the shop manual pic of the screen for you and post here.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 12:34 pm 
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From the 13-15 shop manual:
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 2:45 pm 
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I just didn't read the first post carefully enough. I was looking on the wrong side for the bolt / cover for the oil screen, once I looked at the correct side (the left side, just like says), sure enough, there it was. So, other than concerns about rounding the bolt with a 17mm socket, I think I am ready to change the oil on this puppy!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:02 pm 
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Pat Anderson wrote:
I just didn't read the first post carefully enough. I was looking on the wrong side for the bolt / cover for the oil screen, once I looked at the correct side (the left side, just like says), sure enough, there it was. So, other than concerns about rounding the bolt with a 17mm socket, I think I am ready to change the oil on this puppy!



Serously. A puppy will never need an oil change. Concentrate on the scooter. It's a 5 minute job and not really something that a rational person would angst about

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:09 pm 
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A. My puppy Baxter just might need an oil change, who says?

2. Who says i am rational?

Seriously, I was looking on the wrong frickin' side for the bolt / cover for the oil screen, no wonder I didn't find it. Now that I have found it, yes, I think I can do this!

you you wrote:
Serously. A puppy will never need an oil change. Concentrate on the scooter. It's a 5 minute job and not really something that a rational person would angst about

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 2:09 am 
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Pat Anderson wrote:
A. My puppy Baxter just might need an oil change, who says?

2. Who says i am rational?

Seriously, I was looking on the wrong frickin' side for the bolt / cover for the oil screen, no wonder I didn't find it. Now that I have found it, yes, I think I can do this!

you you wrote:
Serously. A puppy will never need an oil change. Concentrate on the scooter. It's a 5 minute job and not really something that a rational person would angst about



Excellent maybe a step forward to actually doing it.

Be careful about using a socket on the filter housing. The hex is really shallow and the material is soft. Use a close fitting spanner

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2015 2:09 am 
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Pat Anderson wrote:
A. My puppy Baxter just might need an oil change, who says?

2. Who says i am rational?

Seriously, I was looking on the wrong frickin' side for the bolt / cover for the oil screen, no wonder I didn't find it. Now that I have found it, yes, I think I can do this!

you you wrote:
Serously. A puppy will never need an oil change. Concentrate on the scooter. It's a 5 minute job and not really something that a rational person would angst about



Puppy pictures are good

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:08 am 
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About to do my 1st oil change on the scoot this week - just waiting on a new set of tools to arrive - 6 sided too so should be perfect!

As the oil change should be done with the oil warm, and I commute for 25 minutes and get into work long before my start time, I plan to do the change soon after I arrive. What's a suitable wait for the oil to be warm but not too hot (don't want to burn myself on very hot oil) - 15 mins, 30?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 11:35 am 
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the oil is warm enuf after 10 min of riding...a quick trip around the block was fine for me....

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:18 pm 
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iceman, book says to wait 2-3 minutes after you turn off yer warmed up bike. Your plan sounds fine.
By the time you dismount and get your tools/supplies out, those 2-3 mins. (Maybe wait more with yer bubbly hot oil?) will have passed :P
Good luck with that oil screen bolt!!

Heh, could you post a pic of that tool you ordered? Me wants a glimpse :D pleeze?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:07 pm 
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Thanks for the replies - Whitenoise, I bought a complete set - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350684709488

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 4:39 pm 
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iceman wrote:
Thanks for the replies - Whitenoise, I bought a complete set - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350684709488



Seriously an adjustable spanner pulled in really tight is your best bet

Honestly I'd never even own up to having one in a previous life but it really is the best thing

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 1:47 pm 
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2yous....what's the best size Spanner aka Adjustable Wrench for the drain bolt in its' location (it's a bit confined around that bolt)......a 6" length or 8"?

here's pic of a 6" I'm looking at (grip is cushioned, ahhhh :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:56 pm 
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WhiteNoise wrote:
2yous....what's the best size Spanner aka Adjustable Wrench for the drain bolt in its' location (it's a bit confined around that bolt)......a 6" length or 8"?

here's pic of a 6" I'm looking at (grip is cushioned, ahhhh :)



Either should be fine

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:02 pm 
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Good! Thanks :P

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 3:23 am 
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I changed my engine oil just over a week ago and all seemed fine - but now I am not sure if there is a very slow oil leak from the drain bolt. Y?esterday I had to top up the oil to get the dip stick wet and wiping the bolt area it seems to have a thin coating of the 'redish' oil I added to the engine.
I wiped down the bolt area and will check again in a few hours. I've not get a torque wench but when I removed the bolt it was tight (5000 miles) and the washer looked ok. I re-fitted the original washer and tightened the bolt and then added the oil. I'm worried about over-tightening now to stop any leak as some sites suggest the bolt should not be tightened to much but just more than hand tight?

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