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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 12:50 pm 
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Thought I'd place these two fluid extractor's here, well....because it seems the proper place :D
(I re-use some of the extracted oil to clean tools, gardening equipment, and other misc doo-dads).

I own and have used this for oil removal: https://www.lowes.com/pd/LiquiVac-Oil-C ... em/1016407
Attachment:
image.jpeg
image.jpeg [ 127.95 KiB | Viewed 455 times ]

I do Not own or use this, but it looks to do the job just fine: https://www.walmart.com/ip/TRAC-Outdoor ... r/27328297


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image.jpeg
image.jpeg [ 33.93 KiB | Viewed 455 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:29 pm 
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Just a heads-up.
The manual says that the bike wants 800ml with a regular oil change and 900ml if the strainer is removed for cleaning.
Having just done mine, I saw no oil at all coming out of the strainer housing after draining the oil as normal.
So before you go ahead and put in 900ml after an oil change and strainer check, maybe just put in the normal 800ml and dip it after a few minutes.
My bike was on a level surface and on the centre stand, to be sure.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:31 pm 
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Location: Aichi - Central Japan
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WhiteNoise wrote:
Thought I'd place these two fluid extractor's here, well....because it seems the proper place :D
(I re-use some of the extracted oil to clean tools, gardening equipment, and other misc doo-dads).

I own and have used this for oil removal: https://www.lowes.com/pd/LiquiVac-Oil-C ... em/1016407
Attachment:
image.jpeg

I do Not own or use this, but it looks to do the job just fine: https://www.walmart.com/ip/TRAC-Outdoor ... r/27328297


Presumably you never need to undo the drain bolt then?
Nice idea, that gadget.
Wonder if we can get those here in Japan?
Thanks for the heads-up.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:44 pm 
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Is there a drain bolt with a deeper shank to make removal and tightening easier?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 5:43 am 
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chicaboo wrote:
Is there a drain bolt with a deeper shank to make removal and tightening easier?


Do you mean the strainer cap? It's soft alloy and quite shallow. I used a socket that I ground the shank off of so it grips the cap better and doesn't slip off. They can get really tight.

One socket has been ground down, the other not.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 6:04 am 
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Alibally wrote:
chicaboo wrote:
Is there a drain bolt with a deeper shank to make removal and tightening easier?


Do you mean the strainer cap? Its soft alloy and quite shallow. I use a socket i ground the shank off so it grips the cap better and doesn't slip off. They can get really tight.

One socket has been ground down, the other not.

Yeah, the strainer cap. :oops: I have hex impact sockets that are reasonably flat that might do the job without chewing the bolt/cap.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 3:34 pm 
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EddieC wrote:
How to do an oil change on Honda PCX.

Once again, DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional mechanic. Do not take this as professional advice.

An oil change on the PCX is VERY easy and shouldn't take more than 10-15 min to complete.

Tools and Supplies needed:
1. RAGS.
2. 1 quart of 10w-40 or 10-30 oil. (see owners manual for best oil choice)
3. Oil pan
4. Funnel
5. 8, 12, and 17mm Sockets. Extension of any size will make life easier, but not necessary.
6. New crush washer MIGHT be necessary.


the oil doesn't flow so smoothly from our scooters. when the flow becomes slow, it tends to run down the center stand onto the floor. Position the oil pan like this to get most the oil.
Image

remove oil drain bolt. (12mm) Located on the right side of the scooter next to the center stand hinge just beyond the exhaust pipe
Image

remove 8mm bolt holding rear brake line (left side)
Image

After all oil has drained Remove 17mm bolt/cover holding the oil filter. you will likely have to use your wrench the whole time when loosening since there is a spring holding tension on this bolt/cover.
Image

the oil filter will spring out from behind the cover. Remove from engine casing
Image

Clean the oil filter. I used WD-40 to spray the gunk out of the filter. This worked really well. I then rinsed the filter with ample amounts of water to dispose of the WD-40.
Before:
Image

After Cleaning:
Image

After oil filter is completely dry, place the filter spring and cap, back into the engine casing
Image

Please remember to re-instal the oil drain plug. I generally replace crush washers every 10 or so oil changes. Some people replace every time. Do what you wish with your scoot.

remove oil dipstick and replace with funnel. Pour oil into the scoot. The scooter will take less than the full quart, but pretty close. Pour about 7/8 or so in, and verify the level with the dipstick periodically while filling. DO NOT screw dipstick into the threads when checking the oil. The proper reading will be found when placing the dipstick on top of the threads.

Replace 8mm brake line bolt, re-check everything, and you're good to go!


Why do none of this photo links work? Have they expired?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 3:53 pm 
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Photobucket fooled people for years with free hosting and one day recently decided to hold everyone ransom for 400.00 a year to see them. What I don't think they realized is the embedding people do in forums so they are now the most hated internet service on the planet. You should not store your precious photos on third party FREE servers and don't expect to see anyone paying to get their images backup.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 6:02 pm 
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homie wrote:
Photobucket fooled people for years with free hosting and one day recently decided to hold everyone ransom for 400.00 a year to see them. What I don't think they realized is the embedding people do in forums so they are now the most hated internet service on the planet. You should not store your precious photos on third party FREE servers and don't expect to see anyone paying to get their images backup.



Totally agree. It's like a cancer across the forums

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:23 am 
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@Gossamer: Excellent! Been changing oil a long time and was going to skip this thread, except for the hope of a better filter solution. Didn't find a better filter, but wow that's helpful!

For those of you replacing crush gaskets regularly:
Honda 94109-14000 Oil Drain Plug Gasket Pack of 50
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-94109-1400 ... B007JKPUUE


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:46 pm 
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My small contribution is to stick a piece of aluminum tape to the face just behind the drain bolt. This did a great job of keeping the oil going where I wanted it.

Attachment:
image.jpeg
image.jpeg [ 106.53 KiB | Viewed 33 times ]

I still made some mess, but not horrible. I did not clean the screen filter.

The weird thing was that I added around 700 ml of oil, then checked the dipstick, and seemed very full (oil all the way up the stick!). I measured the dirty oil and got a ballpark 750 ml (plus the mess, so maybe 780ish). I measured with the scoot on the center stand. I also ran out of daylight, and so will further investigate tomorrow morning.

So - proper measuring technique is scoot reasonably flat fore and aft, on side stand, dipstick just placed into hole, and oil only on the crosshatch part of the end. Do I have anything wrong?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 3:01 am 
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GeorgeSK wrote:
My small contribution is to stick a piece of aluminum tape to the face just behind the drain bolt. This did a great job of keeping the oil going where I wanted it.

Attachment:
PB170034.jpg


I still made some mess, but not horrible. I did not clean the screen filter.

The weird thing was that I added around 700 ml of oil, then checked the dipstick, and seemed very full (oil all the way up the stick!). I measured the dirty oil and got a ballpark 750 ml (plus the mess, so maybe 780ish). I measured with the scoot on the center stand. I also ran out of daylight, and so will further investigate tomorrow morning.

So - proper measuring technique is scoot reasonably flat fore and aft, on side stand, dipstick just placed into hole, and oil only on the crosshatch part of the end. Do I have anything wrong?


Did you start the engine, let it run for 2mins, wait for a little bit and recheck?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:44 am 
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pxc-in-japan wrote:
Just a heads-up.
The manual says that the bike wants 800ml with a regular oil change and 900ml if the strainer is removed for cleaning.
Having just done mine, I saw no oil at all coming out of the strainer housing after draining the oil as normal.
So before you go ahead and put in 900ml after an oil change and strainer check, maybe just put in the normal 800ml and dip it after a few minutes.
My bike was on a level surface and on the centre stand, to be sure.

I think Honda way over=specced the amount of extra oil needed if removing and checking the screen - there is a little bit of oil on the screen and socker when you remove it but no way does it eqaute to 100ml. Yes, drain the oil when it is warm and leave it a bit to get as much out as possible, but whether you clean the screen or not, doubt it makes much difference if any for the amount of new oil going back in.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 10:39 am 
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Good tip, You². Let it run for a bit, checked, and needed to top up a bit more. Still overdid it. You need narrow tubing to get in to suck out the excess (1/4" OD worked - 3/8" did not). Perhaps I'm being too anal, but level is very finicky - 40 ml makes a big difference.
Attachment:
PB180034.jpg
PB180034.jpg [ 120.72 KiB | Viewed 60 times ]


And 40 ml later:

Attachment:
PB180036.jpg
PB180036.jpg [ 60.1 KiB | Viewed 60 times ]

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 11:47 am 
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George, yes do what 2you's said.

I like the level spot on too! :oops:
If excess is still present on dipstick, I use a "drinking straw" to suck it out. With a "small plastic cup" on nearby

....and "it goes a little something like this"
Place straw into dip stick portal, place finger over straw opening, then pull straw out (oil will be inside of it) grab that cup and place straw over it. Release finger. Excess in cup.
Repeat if necessary
Rechecking level as you go.
Love Improvising

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 1:43 pm 
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WhiteNoise wrote:
George, yes do what 2you's said.

I like the level spot on too! :oops:
If excess is still present on dipstick, I use a "drinking straw" to suck it out. With a "small plastic cup" on nearby

....and "it goes a little something like this"
Place straw into dip stick portal, place finger over straw opening, then pull straw out (oil will be inside of it) grab that cup and place straw over it. Release finger. Excess in cup.
Repeat if necessary
Rechecking level as you go.
Love Improvising



That's not a bad idea. Using a straw as a pipette. I had visions of you actually sucking it out when I started to read it.. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 7:57 pm 
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I was wondering what the oil tasted like also. :o :o


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 9:28 pm 
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Probably better than gasoline. Most nasty that gasoline...

Although I once mouth-pipetted 3 N sulfuric acid and got some air. Nicer than gasoline, but not by much. My teeth squeaked for a week, but I did learn that the lab rule about mouth-pipetting was well founded.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 10:33 pm 
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I put in 23 ounces, measured out in a measuring cup. From there with a syringe I put in 1 ounce at a time until I get it mid stick. Yeah it’s very easy to get it over done.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 11:28 pm 
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:) yup! I did that once. Drained oil directly into plastic container then transferred to measuring cup, roughly 23 ozs. (Because a bit of oil remained behind in container)


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