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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:05 pm 
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I bought mine at autozone. Kraigen, oriley, checker, any auto parts should have them.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:01 pm 
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would this apply to a PCX 150?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:45 pm 
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As far as the procedure and disassembly, yes, absolutely. You may need to verify what the clearances are for the 150, but its very likely the same. Maybe someone with a 150 service manual can verify this?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:15 pm 
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So are you guys saying the PCX 150 does not require a first service valve check and adjustment at 600 miles?

My book says 600 miles then every 2500.

Isn't this the case?

Same was true on my Yamaha TW 200 a single piston thumper.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:08 am 
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The pcx150 probably has a different valve lash spec, not far off from the 125 tho.

I haven't lashed my valves yet, but when I do, ill be adjusting -.002 outside spec on the intake and -.002 on the exhaust as well.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 11:24 am 
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Guys, perhaps this question sounds newbish, but, what do you mean by "loose end of spec" when adjusting the clearance?.

Given that the settings is as follows:

INTAKE: 0.10 +/- .02mm (0.004 +/- 0.001in)
EXHAUST: 0.24 +/- .02mm (0.009 +/- 0.001in)

Looking at the intake, for example, the right setting would be 0.10 mm with +/- .02mm of tolerance. Then, 0.08 would be the loose end or the opposite?.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 11:42 am 
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Cooley -- The first service is definitely necessary. I'd do the second too, and if it is still well-within spec, consider skipping the 3rd.

Cascanciu -- 0.08 would be tight. 0.12 would be loose. :)

With 2 valves, the PCX will run even with the valves out of whack, until they're so far out the engine won't get proper compression. Theoretically, you could do the 1st and 2nd adjustment, then just let it go until you lose power. You risk damaging the valvetrain though, or burning a valve -- both of which are costly. It's probably best to stick with the manual, at least until you're sure your valves don't move much between checks.

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Currently ride: 2011 Honda PCX 125
Previously rides: 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (Takegawa 170cc big bore kit), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:44 am 
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Hi all.
I have just carried out a valve check for first time and I have covered 4300 miles.
Firstly if you can afford to get this done by a workshop I would recommend you do as removing and replacing the plastics is a bit of a nightmare.

I was getting a bit of "popping" when i closed the throttle so i went to work.
I found the gaps had tightened up ( not able to get the specified feeler gauge between the tappet and the valve head even using slight force )and had to open up both the inlet and exhaust. As for setting them to the tolerances specified !!! Well you are a better man than me if you achieve point 02. The best i could achieve was point 05 mm having said that the bike is running nicer with no popping and a perceptible increase in power

( PS it took me 4 hours )

John UK


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:55 am 
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qed wrote:
maddiedog wrote:
I've never heard of valve clearance decreasing, usually when clearances are too tight, they were just improperly adjusted initially. If you think about it, those valves won't tighten themselves. ;)


It can happen but it's rare and due to wear, as is increasing clearance. Just mentioned it as someone will pick it up and run with it if I didn't.

It's worse really as there are real signs of it other than a loss of power and eventually you can burn a valve out

But as you rightly say its an irrelevance really on the PCX running on proper fuel



Hi.
My gaps had closed up and i was getting popping on closing my throttle. Im not even going to try to guess why the were like that but my bike is certainly running with perceptible power increase and no popping when closing the throttle now ive adjusted them. I was surprised to have found them closed up.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:12 am 
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maddiedog wrote:
Cooley -- The first service is definitely necessary. I'd do the second too, and if it is still well-within spec, consider skipping the 3rd.

Cascanciu -- 0.08 would be tight. 0.12 would be loose. :)

With 2 valves, the PCX will run even with the valves out of whack, until they're so far out the engine won't get proper compression. Theoretically, you could do the 1st and 2nd adjustment, then just let it go until you lose power. You risk damaging the valvetrain though, or burning a valve -- both of which are costly. It's probably best to stick with the manual, at least until you're sure your valves don't move much between checks.


Thanks Dave. From what I'm reading, looks like the best thing to do is to let them do it at the dealer whilst still on warranty and at the 5000 kms oil service. Then I'll check them myself at the 10000 kms mark and see what they look like. By that time I expect to be out of warranty already so I'll do all my servicing on my own.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 2:59 pm 
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Look after your little poppets :D

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:28 pm 
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A quick question for the mechanically inclined. Do you know why the instructions ask you to disconnect the fuel line? Is it really necessary, or is it just a precaution for liability reasons?

Thanks for any insight or advice!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:38 pm 
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It is necessary to remove the fuel line. If not it gets in the way when removing the cylinder head.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 3:27 am 
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bought the book and did my first service at 1200 miles. man there are some paranoid pcx riders out there. this is a liquid cooled, rev limited motor and a honda. you could change the oil at every 7000 and your going to be ok. yes, the rev limit is 9,600 but these motors are rock solid. I waited and at 1200 checked the valves and changed the oil. the valves were at factory settings, ( .004 intake, .009 exhaust), when i popped the head and checked them. the oil was light brown and clean. plug was super clean and a light brown. I recommend servicing your pcx yourself. with patience, (2 hours just removing the plastics), a service manual, ($48.00), and some skill you can save a lot of bank. The pcx 125's and especially the 150's are really new. don't think these service know that much more than you. working on the motors is very do-able. some advice: careful with the plastics. Lots of breakable tabs so take your time. some of the evap tubing is thin is my opinion so careful removing them to get to the head. on removing the plastic, there are a crapload of steps. its like the ankle bone is connected to the shin bone, the shin bone is connected to the knee bone the knee bone is.... you get the picture. they're all connected to each other. when i got the service manual and read through it, i scanned the pages that were pertinent to removing the plastics, organized them in order of removal and kind of made my own service manual. just a thought. otherwise you're flipping back and forth. good luck......


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 2:47 pm 
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Couldn't agree more. Its only a scooter and its built by Honda, stop the angst and hand wringing. I don't take my cars in for servicing. Just change the oil at half the recommended limit and sell them on when they hit 200k

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:33 am 
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qed wrote:
Couldn't agree more. Its only a scooter and its built by Honda, stop the angst and hand wringing. I don't take my cars in for servicing. Just change the oil at half the recommended limit and sell them on when they hit 200k


Guess you mean 200k miles. My car is close to the 200k kms mark. Every time I think about buying a new one, I wonder what car out there could give me 180 bhp, request 6'5 (average) litres of diesel every 100 kms, and still be fun to drive and reliable. There aren't much. She's now 10 years old and it looks like she will stay for a few more. A 2002 BMW 320Td, by the way.

But back on topic, I just wonder what's the reason why Honda recommends this valve check every 4000 kms (or 2500 miles) if, according to all the testimonies we are reading, the valves seem to be within spec throughout much longer mileages.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 12:25 pm 
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It's probably just so they can make a lot of money off owners who always follow service intervals. Especially in countries where you have to do so to keep your warranty..


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 5:27 pm 
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Cascanciu wrote:
qed wrote:
Couldn't agree more. Its only a scooter and its built by Honda, stop the angst and hand wringing. I don't take my cars in for servicing. Just change the oil at half the recommended limit and sell them on when they hit 200k


Guess you mean 200k miles. My car is close to the 200k kms mark. Every time I think about buying a new one, I wonder what car out there could give me 180 bhp, request 6'5 (average) litres of diesel every 100 kms, and still be fun to drive and reliable. There aren't much. She's now 10 years old and it looks like she will stay for a few more. A 2002 BMW 320Td, by the way.

But back on topic, I just wonder what's the reason why Honda recommends this valve check every 4000 kms (or 2500 miles) if, according to all the testimonies we are reading, the valves seem to be within spec throughout much longer mileages.


Yes miles. My favourite, a little 2008 Peugeot 107 just hit 80k. Oil change on Saturday with Synthetic Mobil 1and a genuine Toyota oil filter for £26.99 all in and I'm ready for another 10k.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:03 pm 
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A lot of enthusiastic self-tuners here. Congrats all.

I have the amazing good fortune to live 1.5 blocks from one of the most highly respected indy scooter mechanics in the region. Dropping off the scoot whenever, for whatever, and knowing it is in the master’s hands, makes my riding experience just that much more carefree. The PCX is economical enough that I can well afford a few $$$ to have it looked after by the best. I plan to have all service done on schedule. It’s a codependency I happily indulge.

My first scooter, a piece of Chinese junk, improved substantially with every visit to the mechanic. After the third visit, it was drastically better than when brand new. On the other hand, when I took in the PCX, I think my man was a bit disappointed he couldn’t improve on perfection. BTW, the valve inspection revealed they were dead on.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Wish I had read this sooner, but not sure if I'm ready to tackle the DIY on something like this. I took my PCX 150 in today for the 600 mile service.

On the invoice, just above the description of checks and services it reads "JOB: Cruiser Minor Service/1st Service". Nowhere on the invoice does it list "Valve Clearance Inspection or Adjustment". "Inspect Clutch Operation & Freeplay" was even on the list, but crossed out. It seems like they just used a standard cruiser checklist rather than going by the Owner's Manual. I took it to a Honda Dealer/Service Shop so I would expect them to know what to check. This is my first bike of any kind so I don't know what to ask or look for when taking something in for service. Should I take it back in and tell them I want everything in the Owner's Manual checked or ask for money back? Thanks for the advice!


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