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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 12:05 pm 
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I did this today, thank you maddiedog for a nice guide :)
However, I found that fuel cover is different on 2013 model, it opens in opposite direction and opening mechanism can be detached from plastic only from bottom side. So you have to remove the middle panel, turn it over and then you can remove the mechanism. But I didn't do it :)
Actually I made this without removing all panels. I removed a seat, middle panel and front panels. Then I pulled wires around fuel tank along with fuel cover opening cable, up to front side and then to glovebox. It required a few attempts but I think it was still faster.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 5:32 am 
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I read that the additional current drawn by a 12v charger is too much to simply tack on to the lights and that a relay should be used in conjunction with a direct line to the battery to avoid damage.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:45 am 
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eshroom wrote:
I read that the additional current drawn by a 12v charger is too much to simply tack on to the lights and that a relay should be used in conjunction with a direct line to the battery to avoid damage.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

A relay allows you to switch on and off a high power/draw circuit with a low power switch. You don't have that need or circumstance here.

I wouldn't think a socket used for a charger would draw much power but you should check on this. If it is low you could wire it into any fused circuit so that fuse would blow before any damage could be done by a short or large draw. Any existing fused circuit (light, horn, etc.) with excess capacity should work. You can check this (exceeding the capacity) after wiring in your charger by turning on all devices on that circuit and seeing if you blow the fuse. You want to avoid this happening on the road where you probably wouldn't know the fuse blew until you needed to use another device (like the horn) that was on that circuit.

If you are concerned or the draw is indeed high it would be better to create a new, separate circuit for this by wiring it directly to the battery with an inline fuse.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:01 am 
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I have the 12 volt outlet installed on my bike and hooked directly to the battery. (It comes with an inline fuse.) I did this so that if I stopped somewhere momentarily, such as to get a drink from my tail box, my GPS can remain on. I have a cup holder on the bike, so that I can just put the drink in my cup, drop it into the cup holder and off I go. I have a usb adapter that I plug into the 12 volt outlet. It has 2 ports, so that I can run the GPS plus charge my phone or plug in my iPod. I haven't been caught in the rain but one time, and the outlet was fine then.

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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 12:29 pm 
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I've installed my 12v but something odd is happeninng.

I followed the method of connecting to the green wire that goes to the turn signal.

Every time I press the brake the current to the 12v socket is cut.

Does anyone know me have any idea why this might be happening?


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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 1:04 pm 
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Like this?


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 2:21 pm 
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Yes except mine is in the glove box.


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 2:49 pm 
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and... there you are :D new avitar :lol: :lol: :lol: could have been worse


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 4:41 pm 
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homie wrote:
and... there you are :D new avitar :lol: :lol: :lol: could have been worse



:lol:

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 2:06 pm 
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eshroom wrote:
I've installed my 12v but something odd is happeninng.

I followed the method of connecting to the green wire that goes to the turn signal.

Every time I press the brake the current to the 12v socket is cut.

Does anyone know me have any idea why this might be happening?


Does anybody have some thoughts on this and why it may be happening? Is it happening to others? Would wiring to the headlights instead of the tailights/indicators perhaps fix it?


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 3:18 pm 
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The green wire is the frame ground, so you can just as easily connect the ground wire you require to a screw that is attached directly to the frame. There are a lot of those. If you are doing this in the front area, there is a screw under the meter panel cover and also one under the center cover. Try those two places and then check to see if that solves your problem. If it does not then it is where your power wire is connected the is the problem.

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Currently own:
Two Red 2013 Honda PCX150s

Givi tall windshield and tailbox on both
Lots and lots of extra lights
Custom seats from Thailand
Bad boy Airhorn on each
Takegawa Lowering Shocks on both


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 4:15 pm 
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By the way, the hot wire for the brake switch goes to the same circuit breaker as the turn signal relay does. Try moving your hot wire to a different circuit.

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Currently own:
Two Red 2013 Honda PCX150s

Givi tall windshield and tailbox on both
Lots and lots of extra lights
Custom seats from Thailand
Bad boy Airhorn on each
Takegawa Lowering Shocks on both


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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 12:49 pm 
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Great thanks! This fixed it. Issue was the green wire. Strange though as indicators and dash (also fed by brown) work fine while brake is pressed.


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