The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hoping someone can help. I upgraded my headlight bulbs to Phillips +130%, from two standard bulbs. The new bulbs worked until I pressed the 'pass' switch going through switch checks. The engine wasnt running. now I have no headlights working, either with or without engine running.

I tried the old bulbs back in and still nothing. checked the fuses and they are ok. I have a feeling it may be the relay, I am happy to buy one to try, but don't really want to waste money or time. A couple of questions:

how do I get to the front relays?
Anyone have any good ideas regarding the failed lights?

Clearly the scoot is off the road until the lights are fixed, so timely assistance is really appreciated.

Do you have an image of the bulbs?

Gil

There are 3 fuse locations. Have you checked them all?

It sounds like you are in UK? Your Forza's are slightly different than Canadian or US ones. We have no pass button.

The relays are under the y shaped trim around the headlights. Mine was difficult to remove and tabs got broken.

I put hotter bulbs in my Forza. They did not last very long. I replaced them with LED's but the focus is wrong. I would stick with regular halogens and add LED's down at fender level or maybe even sticking out the side of the fairing. UK sounds like they don't like extra lights. Canada (BC) no one cares.

Is yours a PCX or a Forza? If it is a PCX most relays are under the black instrument panel cover. What's a Pass switch? Are you talking about the Hi/Lo dimmer switch? Had you tried the High beam when you had the new bulbs? Some members reported having no high beam, but I would have to read more on the circumstances. To be honest, I am looking at the wiring diagram right now and I don't see a relay in the headlight circuit. There is a 15 amp headlight fuse though {D}. Change that, whether you think it needs it or not.

knick620 wrote:I upgraded my headlight bulbs to Phillips +130%

Are they definitely 35/35w halogens...?

Have you tried putting the originals back in...?

Gil wrote:Do you have an image of the bulbs?

This could be useful. The bulbs are rated at 450 hours, and flashing them to pass will shorten that life. There's a good chance one popped and took a fuse with it.

Mel46 wrote:Is yours a PCX or a Forza? If it is a PCX most relays are under the black instrument panel cover. What's a Pass switch? Are you talking about the Hi/Lo dimmer switch? Had you tried the High beam when you had the new bulbs? Some members reported having no high beam, but I would have to read more on the circumstances. To be honest, I am looking at the wiring diagram right now and I don't see a relay in the headlight circuit. There is a 15 amp headlight fuse though {D}. Change that, whether you think it needs it or not.

He said a Forza, and his sig. has 2013 Forza

gn2 wrote:

knick620 wrote:I upgraded my headlight bulbs to Phillips +130%

Are they definitely 35/35w halogens...?
Have you tried putting the originals back in...?

That's another concern, bulbs are highly counterfeit, and many on eBay are Chinese knock-offs that draw excessive current that can cause electrical problems. He said he put the originals in and they also don't light. Hopefully a fuse.

davenowherejones wrote:There are 3 fuse locations. Have you checked them all?

It sounds like you are in UK? Your Forza's are slightly different than Canadian or US ones. We have no pass button.

The relays are under the y shaped trim around the headlights. Mine was difficult to remove and tabs got broken.

I put hotter bulbs in my Forza. They did not last very long. I replaced them with LED's but the focus is wrong. I would stick with regular halogens and add LED's down at fender level or maybe even sticking out the side of the fairing. UK sounds like they don't like extra lights. Canada (BC) no one cares.

^^^This is knowledgeable, great advice.

Gil wrote:Do you have an image of the bulbs?

Gil

Bought from amazon, I replace them as standard in my vehicles.

davenowherejones wrote:There are 3 fuse locations. Have you checked them all?

It sounds like you are in UK? Your Forza's are slightly different than Canadian or US ones. We have no pass button.

The relays are under the y shaped trim around the headlights. Mine was difficult to remove and tabs got broken.

I put hotter bulbs in my Forza. They did not last very long. I replaced them with LED's but the focus is wrong. I would stick with regular halogens and add LED's down at fender level or maybe even sticking out the side of the fairing. UK sounds like they don't like extra lights. Canada (BC) no one cares.

Three fuse locations? I have the undersea fuse box and checked them with a multimeter, also the 30a starter.... where else, I don't yet have a workshop manual?

gn2 wrote:

knick620 wrote:I upgraded my headlight bulbs to Phillips +130%

Are they definitely 35/35w halogens...?

Have you tried putting the originals back in...?

Getting to the route cause, it looks like they are 60/55w, though that what also what was in the scoot. When i tried one old one new the difference was significant, though it was only increasing the load by one bulb, clearly with 2 bulbs at 60/55w it has overloaded the lighting circuit somewhere, its just working out where.

Whe I put the originals back in there is still no light. So either fuse, relay or switch?

Thanks for all of your comments. I have a Forza 300 uk 2013, the pass switch on the uk model is on the left, along with the indicators and the headlight (full/low beam) switch.

when I establish where the problem lies (and repair it) the option would be to add led or cree lights separately, unless there is a way to run lights at increased wattage? It is strange that the bulbs I replaced were already 60/55w I guess the increased brightness comes with a penalty.

I will pick up a relay from a honda dealer tomorrow, it would be really useful if anyone could provide a wiring diagram which would help with either switch checking or fuse/relay.

The fuse is the weakest link and should be blown first . Replace fuses as you might not see the break (filament) inside. Sometimes looking at them can fool you. Just replace it before you buy any relays.

easyrider wrote:The fuse is the weakest link and should be blown first . Replace fuses as you might not see the break (filament) inside. Sometimes looking at them can fool you. Just replace it before you buy any relays.

I checked the fuses under the seat with a multimeter with current going through all of them so they are good. What I don't know is the location of all the fuses, is there a separate headlight fuse not under the seat?

Here is a picture from the service manual as to where at least one other fuse box seems to be (right side of handlebar are "fuse Box B"). I looked pretty hard to find out what you have to remove to get to Fuse Box B, but the manual was silent on the issue. Maybe DaveNWJ will let us know if you go in from the front or the back of the handlebar area.

Weird. I wonder why the image doesn't just appear?

GeorgeSK wrote:Here is a picture from the service manual as to where at least one other fuse box seems to be (right side of handlebar are "fuse Box B"). I looked pretty hard to find out what you have to remove to get to Fuse Box B, but the manual was silent on the issue. Maybe DaveNWJ will let us know if you go in from the front or the back of the handlebar area.

Forza Fuse Locations.pdf

Perfect, that really helps, the relay box and the second fuse box ! looks like I might be able to get it though the rh glovebox (2 screws) or the front panel off to reach the relay box.

Either way I will let you know - thanks

Open the rh glovebox, there are two screws on the top edge of the opening, these release the dash panel above the glovebox and you can access the fusebox.
While you're in there you can stick some tape on one of the connectors on the double filament indicator bulb to disable the orange running light. Same routine on the other side for the left indicator bulb.

Chances are you'll have blown the 10A headlamp fuse.
120w/12v=10a
The stock bulbs look like H4 but are only 35/35w
70w/12v=5.833a

Two screws on top of the right non-locking storage box, take off the panel. I have two small fuse blocks with covers. The bigger one has H/L which might be High/Low headlights, not sure. Really awkward to see/work in this area. There are spare fuses in the blocks. Page 93 of the owners manual. gn2 beat me to it.

You could look at getting an LED headlight bulb retrofit. The H4 type bulb is the only one that I have seen being offered as an LED bulb retrofit by a major manufacturer. Phillips is that one company, it's pricey though, as it's only sold outside the US. Here is a review of the H4 bulb. http://www.xenondepot.com/Philips-12953 ... w-s/62.htm

The important thing about the Phillips bulbs is the position of the LEDs that allow for a great light pattern.

Gil

Stock canadian model has 35/35w bulbs, protected by fuse G (10A), fusebox B (under the right glove
cover as said above). So stock demand is 2x35 =70w/12v = 5.8 Amps. No way that fuse could
stand 2x60= 120w/12v=10 Amps for long.

There is no headlight relay.

I have no idea how UK's Pass system is wired, but it is highly probable that you're asking too much from your H/L fuse. +130% better, not really.

My fusebox B broke off the metal support. I will have to use some silicone to glue it back together. It is held on by a little 0.5 mm crappy plastic tab. !@#$%^&* Thai plastic.