LED stop lights on Givi V47 - wiring to Forza

[Monty1952]

Has anyone done the wiring from the case (after installing LED kit) into the Forza? Is there a wiring diagram available?

[SECoda]

The last page of the service manual has a huge wiring diagram. That said the diagram on page 1-30 shows the rear wiring very well. For $30 each the service manuals (I got one for the PCX and Forza) are worth their weight in gold IMO.

I tapped into those wires for the Knight Rider light on my license plate on the PCX.

I am looking that Givi 47 over closely. It seems to have the room I want.

[Mister_Fube]

I'd be very interested to know how you got on with yours, if you do figure out the wiring. I got my dealer to connect up the wiring from my Givi B47 Blade to my brake light circuit in the end, because I could neither figure out how to get at the rear light cluster or it's wiring, and I was already booked in for my first 600 mile service anyway.

However, I have found the connectors in the top box to be extremely temperamental - expecially or maybe exclusively the bottom connecter that sits just inside the base of the topbox. I have had to pack some rubber washers underneath the connector housing so that it doesn't slide down the little plastic runners that hold it in place to such a degree that it simply doesn't touch the corresponding upper connector in the lid. Why did Givi design it with so much extra play? It started off good, then became intermittent. Now I can't seem to get the brake lights in the topbox to work, nomatter how much I fiddle with the damn connectors. I would love to know if this is a common problem or just my own bad luck.

[Mister_Fube]

As an update to my dodgy topbox brake light wiring: my auxiliary brake lights stopped working altogether after a while. I finally got around to doing something about it, and found that due to my constantly having to remove and re-seat the lower spring-loaded connector of GIVI's own LED brake light wiring, the wires had just been tugged too often and broke inside the connector head. These stupid connectors have not worked properly from day 1. The plastic mouldings to hold them in position are simply not precise enough to guarantee a connection when the lid is down.

My solution therefore, was to dispense entirely with the idea of connecting the brake lights in the topbox lid to the wiring running through the base of the topbox across the front opening, and instead run the wiring backwards across the lid and base so that they are permanently connected across the back of the topbox, where the hinges are. The only inherent danger here is getting the wires pinched in the hinges as the topbox is opened and closed. I have put some stiff card backing along the wire, where it crosses the hinge and stuck down all the wiring with black electrical insulation tape in order to make it both discreet and unlikley to get fouled by any of the junk that I'm ever going to put into the topbox. It took some spare wire, a crimper, and lots of black insulation tape, but it works a treat. Now the brake lights work well and reliably. See the photos: