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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 8:59 am 
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Finally, after 12966 loyal 'UK' miles from the stock IRC tyre, time came to change it and out of four choices I opted for the CG due to the praise it gets. Tread was just below minimum but I noticed a huge drop in PSI over a short time - usally around 3psi every few months to 20+ in weeks! No puncture that I could see, but with little mid tread left it had to go anyway, whatever the problem was. I'll keep a check on it over the coming weeks.

Never had issue with the stock IRC's and would not have minded having them fitted again, but I went with the mass concensus of fitting CG's. See how long the CG lasts in comparison, although my journey now involves lots of 40-50mph riding on high camber roads compared to 30mpg on flatter roads.

They garage had issues changing the tyre as they had not done a PCX tyre change before so pondered over what needed to come off in what order - I chipped in a few times :) Two mech's spent about 40+ minutes doing the job but still the charge was only £15 to remove off the bike and then re-fit to it - not bad as often that price is for tyre change if you remove the wheel yourself. £64 all in. No torque wrench used and I grimaced as they tightened some of the plate holding bolts too much for my liking.

They thought the rear pads were about %50 worn but I need to check against the official wear check thing. What surprised me was how rusty the upper half of the centre stand was (more bulging metal than red rust mind) - looks to have really suffered from 3 years of standing on wet salty pathways. May need to try and remove and re-grease it at some point or perhaps replace it post winter.

So, 2 of 3 problems hopefully sorted - new front pads and new rear tyre - just the clutch bearing noise to deal with along with replacing stock clutch pads to the '110' style for smoother take-off. Oh, and belt/filter/etc general to-do jobs.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 3:22 pm 
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iceman wrote:
Finally, after 12966 loyal 'UK' miles from the stock IRC tyre, time came to change it and out of four choices I opted for the CG due to the praise it gets. Tread was just below minimum but I noticed a huge drop in PSI over a short time - usally around 3psi every few months to 20+ in weeks! No puncture that I could see, but with little mid tread left it had to go anyway, whatever the problem was. I'll keep a check on it over the coming weeks.

Never had issue with the stock IRC's and would not have minded having them fitted again, but I went with the mass concensus of fitting CG's. See how long the CG lasts in comparison, although my journey now involves lots of 40-50mph riding on high camber roads compared to 30mpg on flatter roads.

They garage had issues changing the tyre as they had not done a PCX tyre change before so pondered over what needed to come off in what order - I chipped in a few times :) Two mech's spent about 40+ minutes doing the job but still the charge was only £15 to remove off the bike and then re-fit to it - not bad as often that price is for tyre change if you remove the wheel yourself. £64 all in. No torque wrench used and I grimaced as they tightened some of the plate holding bolts too much for my liking.

They thought the rear pads were about %50 worn but I need to check against the official wear check thing. What surprised me was how rusty the upper half of the centre stand was (more bulging metal than red rust mind) - looks to have really suffered from 3 years of standing on wet salty pathways. May need to try and remove and re-grease it at some point or perhaps replace it post winter.

So, 2 of 3 problems hopefully sorted - new front pads and new rear tyre - just the clutch bearing noise to deal with along with replacing stock clutch pads to the '110' style for smoother take-off. Oh, and belt/filter/etc general to-do jobs.


Sounds like you're doing all the same kinds of things as I've just had done. I've just done front and rear tyre & brake pads, cooling & brake fluids, belt, clutch pads, rear driven face. I got the dealer to do the tyres and fit the pads I supplied along with fluids - they also spent some time on the head bearing. 5 hours labour and NZD$695 all up - ouch. Was good to get so many consumables reset at the same time though.

They still want to replace the head bearings though - that'll be another 4 hours labour + bearings :(


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 3:42 pm 
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TheMaverick wrote:
iceman wrote:
Finally, after 12966 loyal 'UK' miles from the stock IRC tyre, time came to change it and out of four choices I opted for the CG due to the praise it gets. Tread was just below minimum but I noticed a huge drop in PSI over a short time - usally around 3psi every few months to 20+ in weeks! No puncture that I could see, but with little mid tread left it had to go anyway, whatever the problem was. I'll keep a check on it over the coming weeks.

Never had issue with the stock IRC's and would not have minded having them fitted again, but I went with the mass concensus of fitting CG's. See how long the CG lasts in comparison, although my journey now involves lots of 40-50mph riding on high camber roads compared to 30mpg on flatter roads.

They garage had issues changing the tyre as they had not done a PCX tyre change before so pondered over what needed to come off in what order - I chipped in a few times :) Two mech's spent about 40+ minutes doing the job but still the charge was only £15 to remove off the bike and then re-fit to it - not bad as often that price is for tyre change if you remove the wheel yourself. £64 all in. No torque wrench used and I grimaced as they tightened some of the plate holding bolts too much for my liking.

They thought the rear pads were about %50 worn but I need to check against the official wear check thing. What surprised me was how rusty the upper half of the centre stand was (more bulging metal than red rust mind) - looks to have really suffered from 3 years of standing on wet salty pathways. May need to try and remove and re-grease it at some point or perhaps replace it post winter.

So, 2 of 3 problems hopefully sorted - new front pads and new rear tyre - just the clutch bearing noise to deal with along with replacing stock clutch pads to the '110' style for smoother take-off. Oh, and belt/filter/etc general to-do jobs.


Sounds like you're doing all the same kinds of things as I've just had done. I've just done front and rear tyre & brake pads, cooling & brake fluids, belt, clutch pads, rear driven face. I got the dealer to do the tyres and fit the pads I supplied along with fluids - they also spent some time on the head bearing. 5 hours labour and NZD$695 all up - ouch. Was good to get so many consumables reset at the same time though.

They still want to replace the head bearings though - that'll be another 4 hours labour + bearings :(



Did you tell them how you use a breaker bar instead of a ratchet?

That might have helped them along a bit :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 4:13 pm 
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you you wrote:
Did you tell them how you use a breaker bar instead of a ratchet?

That might have helped them along a bit :lol: :lol:


Get well soon :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 4:14 pm 
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I may remove the rear wheel myself to grease the axle - the garage did not do that as I was watching them do the work and I believe it's good practice to grease the axle before the wheel goes back on. I need to check the drop stand anyway as that really needs some attention - grease if not replacement. I only use the side-stand when re-fueling and the drop-stand every other time.

Not had the coolant or brake fluids changed yet - not that we have excessive temps over here (it's rained at some point over a 24 hour period almost every day for the past 2 months, even if briefly at night or early morning).

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 4:57 pm 
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Iceman it would be very worth while greasing the rear axle up. A few months back I got the rear tyre replaced on a 2013.
I removed the wheel myself....... :o ooooh what a 5-6 hour job that turned out to be purely because the inner bearing had the slightest amount of corrosion on it and seized up not allowing the wheel to slide off.
Particularly if you have a salt water environment would be time well spent.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 7:58 pm 
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iceman wrote:
Not had the coolant or brake fluids changed yet - not that we have excessive temps over here (it's rained at some point over a 24 hour period almost every day for the past 2 months, even if briefly at night or early morning).


Get them fluids changed, they need doing no matter what the weather's like.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 8:03 pm 
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gn2 wrote:
iceman wrote:
Not had the coolant or brake fluids changed yet - not that we have excessive temps over here (it's rained at some point over a 24 hour period almost every day for the past 2 months, even if briefly at night or early morning).


Get them fluids changed, they need doing no matter what the weather's like.


Agreed. Book says 2 years - so any time between 2 & 3 years is probably going to be good. Wouldn't want to risk internal corrosion due to the coolant inhibitor being neutralised.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 10:08 pm 
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Scoot Commute wrote:
Iceman it would be very worth while greasing the rear axle up. A few months back I got the rear tyre replaced on a 2013.
I removed the wheel myself....... :o ooooh what a 5-6 hour job that turned out to be purely because the inner bearing had the slightest amount of corrosion on it and seized up not allowing the wheel to slide off.
Particularly if you have a salt water environment would be time well spent.



Same. Complete pain for a simple job.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:22 am 
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Well, one week on and lost 4psi in the rear tyre - a brand new valve fitted too. From what I've read online, it could be some thin rust or grime on the inside lip of the wheel that prevents the tyre sitting flush all around, but not sure if that's the case. What else could it be? This was the same with the original IRC for the last yr+ of it's life, so doubt it's the fitting of the new tyre as such.

Although I intended to remove the wheel to grease the beariings / axle, if this damn cold ever goes I don't think I'll bother removing the tyre this side of winter, just check it weekly.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:34 am 
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Sounds like a bit of alloy corrosion allowing a small amount of air past the bead.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:17 pm 
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Or a deep scratch on the aluminum from a tire change tool?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:40 pm 
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Well, one week on and lost 4psi in the rear tyre - a brand new valve fitted too.

A cheap issue to rule out would be the valve stem, new or not. They cost next to nothing.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 3:05 pm 
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springer1 wrote:
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Well, one week on and lost 4psi in the rear tyre - a brand new valve fitted too.

A cheap issue to rule out would be the valve stem, new or not. They cost next to nothing.

Bit of spit is the old trick to check

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 3:29 pm 
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Thanks. Thought the tire change and valve change would solve the loss of pressure. If the valve is leaking a bit from the end, doesn't the screw on cap stop the real loss?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 3:43 pm 
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iceman wrote:
Thanks. Thought the tire change and valve change would solve the loss of pressure. If the valve is leaking a bit from the end, doesn't the screw on cap stop the real loss?


I doubt a valve cap would be strong enough.

Just be sure you're checking pressures when the tyre is at the same temperature - with my Fobo TPMS I know that I get about a 4 PSI difference in pressure between "first thing in the morning" and "just after a ride" (even more if I've been carrying a pillion).

My usual trick for leaks is to paint on a water/dishwashing liquid combo and watch for bubbles (in theory a bubble mixture from a toy store should work even better).

As a last resort, consider once of those self-sealing fluid products that you put in the tyre -- it might do the job.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 3:52 pm 
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iceman wrote:
Thanks. Thought the tire change and valve change would solve the loss of pressure. If the valve is leaking a bit from the end, doesn't the screw on cap stop the real loss?



It will but it's best to check and then you can rule the valve as the cause.

After that it just three things. Porous rim, corrosion or damage on the rim, porous tyre.

Since your last tyre had the same issue you can rule out porous tyre. Porous rim is very unlikely. So if you check out the valve and it's OK then you've narrowed it down to the fitting and damage/corrosion.

Simples.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 5:13 pm 
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If it's a bad valve here's a video from "Mitch" on how to replace one. But not necessary to remove the rear wheel. . .from what he claims. . .although it's easier. This valve stem in the video is for a tubeless tire but different than the stem type on the PCX. I would think the principle is the same for the straight type valve replacements but somebody correct me if I'm wrong. :geek:



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 5:44 pm 
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PCX150Rider wrote:
If it's a bad valve here's a video from "Mitch" on how to replace one. But not necessary to remove the rear wheel. . .from what he claims. . .although it's easier. This valve stem in the video is for a tubeless tire but different than the stem type on the PCX. I would think the principle is the same for the straight type valve replacements but somebody correct me if I'm wrong. :geek:




That valve is snapped. If it's just leaking you can just unscrew and replace the valve without touching the housing.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 7:56 pm 
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That valve is snapped. If it's just leaking you can just unscrew and replace the valve without touching the housing.


Yup. . .could do that first. No bubbles would be good bubbles. However. . .

Letting all the air out of the tire would allow inspection of the rim though if it did come to that. o_O


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