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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 11:49 pm 
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Near as damn it 33,333km, so time for some TLC to usher in the "2nd trimester".

Stripped the rear end of the transmission down - replaced the driven face assy, clutch shoes, and replaced the belt.

Surprising amount of carbon came out of the clutch assy.

No great surprises thanks to the many videos I've watched on the topic (especially yours Homie - thanks very much). Only 3 head scratching moments ...

1. Wasn't sure how to get the packing grease between the bearings without it being wiped off on the shaft when I reassembled - but that turned into a non-event when I was able to inject the grease through the shaft holes and spread it around into the recess where it stayed quite nicely - only a couple of match head worth's was attached to the shaft when reassembled.

2. Clutch springs were far more problematic than first anticipated, but eventually I got the technique right.

3. The 38mm socket I'd bought for the clutch nut turned out to be something between a "friction fit" and "finally fitting into place after filing edges and hammering it into (and then out of) place. Didn't see that one coming.

Definitely a changed sound from the rear driven face bearings; not a heck of a lot quieter, but far less rough sounding. Definitely sounds much smoother. The belt had deteriorated since last inspection a few 1000 km ago - but still looked strong and not close to breaking. I plan to improvise a strength test to see how many kg it'll lift before breaking. New clutch feels like the bike did when I first got it.

Question: Clutch shoes appear to be a 3 part construction - there's the metal bit which takes up 98% of it's overall mass - then a "large postage stamp" size material that looks like cork (even though it obviously isn't) then another slightly smaller substance mounted to that which is of a similar colour. On my old shoes that 3rd layer was almost completely eroded away and there were a number of scratches inside the clutch housing. Just wondering if I seem to have judged the clutch plate replacement to perfection, or is that 2nd "large postage stamp" substrate also part of what can engage normally?

Brake shoes, tyres, brake fluid, valve clearance, cooling fluids all being done by dealer on Tuesday. Bonus - had the bike exactly 30 months today - just realised.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 7:55 am 
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Bravo, Nice going !!! Wondering how often you've changed the final drive fluid in the rear. Asking because when I changed mine at the initial 600 mile check (wasn't called for but I did it anyway), the fluid had an obvious gray /metal shine to it. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 8:31 am 
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Year: 2017
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Quote:
Near as damn it 33,333km, so time for some TLC to usher in the "2nd trimester".


Thanks for sharing your experiences. Every bit of info helps. :geek:

Quote:
Bravo, Nice going !!! Wondering how often you've changed the final drive fluid in the rear. Asking because when I changed mine at the initial 600 mile check (wasn't called for but I did it anyway), the fluid had an obvious gray /metal shine to it. Thanks.


I first changed my final drive fluid at 1000 miles and it had little gold particles in it. . .just considered that normal break-in debris. The manual recommended every other year for maintenance on it. Here's a pic. . .you can barely see the gold looking shiny particles. . .some of the reflection is also just scratched plastic on the drip pan. But I totally cleaned it before I drained the oil. :geek:

Attachment:
100_4485a.jpg
100_4485a.jpg [ 319.11 KiB | Viewed 122 times ]


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 8:39 am 
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springer1 wrote:
Bravo, Nice going !!! Wondering how often you've changed the final drive fluid in the rear. Asking because when I changed mine at the initial 600 mile check (wasn't called for but I did it anyway), the fluid had an obvious gray /metal shine to it. Thanks.


Thanks.

Rear drive fluid got changed by the dealer at 1000km - again by me at 16,000 - and again by dealer at about 26,00km when they were concerned about the noise in the rear (nobody told them about the rear driven face assy bearing issue on the 2013 model). So all in all, pretty much as the book recommends.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 3:38 pm 
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Hey, there was a problem with the rear driven face assembly on 2013 + models....
Don't say we didn't tell you. :-) ... maybe a bit late but...

Speaking of which, I am surprised that some of the newer bikes are still having this problem. I believe that I read of a 2016 model having this problem. I am pretty sure Honda knows about this issue. They must have had a huge supply of bad ones...or they can't seem to get this thing right.

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Givi tall windshield and tailbox on both
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 3:54 pm 
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Mel46 wrote:
Hey, there was a problem with the rear driven face assembly on 2013 + models....
Don't say we didn't tell you. :-) ... maybe a bit late but...

Speaking of which, I am surprised that some of the newer bikes are still having this problem. I believe that I read of a 2016 model having this problem. I am pretty sure Honda knows about this issue. They must have had a huge supply of bad ones...or they can't seem to get this thing right.


I know that :)

Funnily enough, even the dealer didn't seem to know about it though - I told them!

Will be interesting to see how mine goes now. Now that the grease has worked it's way in it's gone a lot quieter - night and day difference. The the new tyres, brake and coolant fluids, valve check, brake pads etc that she's getting as we speak, it should be like getting a new bike back!


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