The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hello,

I started my 2013 PCX 150 a week ago and it ran great. I didn't use it for a week, and now it won't start. The dash lights come on, the turn signals work, the horn is strong, but the fuel pump doesn't make its noise and the headlights don't come on. I tried putting a new battery in and nothing. It doesn't crank at all, just nothing. The fuses are good.

Yes, the kill switch is off. Any ideas?

GainTheGrain wrote:Hello,

I started my 2013 PCX 150 a week ago and it ran great. I didn't use it for a week, and now it won't start. The dash lights come on, the turn signals work, the horn is strong, but the fuel pump doesn't make its noise and the headlights don't come on. I tried putting a new battery in and nothing. It doesn't crank at all, just nothing. The fuses are good.

Yes, the kill switch is off. Any ideas?

Side stand up?

Does your MIL light come on? My saga is here: http://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=7878

If your MIL light is not coming on, and you are not getting the fuel pump noise, take off enough plastic to get to the ECU and unplug both multi-pin connectors, then reconnect. Might work, and it doesn't cost you anything but time.

What about the red switch on the right handle bar?
That one has fooled me before.

Gil

Gil wrote:What about the red switch on the right handle bar?
That one has fooled me before.

Gil

Isn't that the kill switch?

you you wrote:

Gil wrote:What about the red switch on the right handle bar?
That one has fooled me before.

Gil

Isn't that the kill switch?

Yes, thank you, I couldn't remember the name for it.

Gil

It IS on the center stand, correct?...side stand up? Remember that you have to hold one of the brake levers compressed. It will work with either one pulled. If nothing happens on one side then try holding the other.

Check main harness plugs and main engine fuse

I have foolishly caught myself more than once trying to start my PCX with the side stand down after I've been riding my MOPED or motorcycles for a while. Had that moment of WTF?

Then I'd realize that the PCX won't run with the side stand down. . .it must be up or on the center stand.

Go figure.

Let us know what you discover. You wouldn't be the first to find that the brake switch on one side was acting up, or that the side stand was down, or something else somewhat simple but frustrating. It happens. Consider it part of learning about your precious.

I swapped out the fuses one by one with spares and attempted to start it each time. It did nothing. No headlights, no fuel pump noise, no start - only dash lights.

The MIL light is not coming on. Where is the ECU located? How do I get to it?

ECU is on the right side front of the scoot. I got to it by removing the Meter panel cover, seat, center cover, right maintenance lid, and inner cover. At that point I could reach in and plug/unplug the connectors to the ECM. The manual is pretty darn helpful, as is a set of Harbor Freight plastic trim removal tools. I think Homie has a link that he is willing to share to get you enough manual to help - send him a PM. (Forgive me, Homie, for being presumptuous).

I cannot get to my scoot right now, but maybe someone could check to see if you can get to the connectors from the underside, and so escape the joy of plastics removal.

Not sure if it's the same on the PCX but on the Forza the Check Engine Light (CEL) only comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out when turning the key to run.

On the 2013 model the headlights won't come on until the engine is running. Same with the fuel pump.
I know that you changed the battery, so this suggestion my seem dumb, but connect a Battery Tender into the battery while it is connected to the bike. Hopefully the light will be green once it is plugged into the wall. If not, let it charge till it is green. Then, without disconnecting the Battery Tender, try to start the bike. Whatever the problem is, it relates to the bike not starting.

Shouldn't the fuel pump come on for 2 seconds when you turn the key to run to build pressure and prime the system?

Yup. If all safeties (side stand and kill switch) are correct, when you turn the key,the MIL light comes on and the fuel pump runs, presumably to pressurize the fuel injection. Squeeze the brake handle and push the ignition, and off you go.

No MIL and no fuel pump noise, and you aren't going anywhere.

I have a PDF of the manual that I found on this forum and I did a control-F for ECU and couldn't find anything. Do you know what page it is on?

To answer the questions of other people: I have owned this scooter for about 3 years and put over 10k miles on it, so I know how to star the bike. I know that the kill switch is off, the kickstand is up, and the fuses are working. I actually trickle charged my original battery and it still won't start. I remember when the scooter used to work, when you'd hit the ignition, the dash lights, MIL light, and the fuel pump would make it's little digital sounding buzzing noise, then I could start the bike. Now, when I hit the ignition, I only get the dash lights, the speedometer does it's move from left to right, but I get no fuel pump sound nor the brief flash of the MIL light.

Following the manual is a Byzantine quest. Start at page 2-3 for an overview. 2-7 to get the meter panel cover off (work it down and back rather than straight off), then inner maintenance lid. Now off to 2-6 to pull the seat (not like you need the manual for that), but then the Center Cover. Slow going while you try to figure out what they mean by "release the front five tabs". A clue how would have been nice, but gently pushing and prying will get you there (plastic pry bars very useful here). Back to the bottom of 2-7 (and continuing to the top of 2-8) to remove the inner cover. You can now see the prize - a black (grey maybe?) box attached to the frame member along the right side of the scoot. Wrestle off both of the plugs (one gray, one black) from the top - I maybe recall there are latch clips holding the plugs on, and there wasn't a ton of room for my hand. MIL circuit discussion is on 4-27, but the salient point of all this is on page 4-28: "Before starting the inspection, check for loose or poor contact on the ECM connectors, and recheck the MIL blinking". Plug the plugs back in and see if you get the MIL and the fuel pump sound.

This is where my problem was solved - I sincerely hope that your problem will go away here as well. If not, you can run through the assorted ECM plug checks on 4-27 and 4-28 with a multimeter. I found that the manual told me how to check for stuff, but gave no indication about what to do if I found something amiss (with the exception of the supremely unhelpful suggestion of "replace the ECM with one known to be functional" - like I have a spare kicking around).

On the bright side, it goes together WAY easier than it came apart. My replacement meter cover panel only cost around 13 bucks.

Good luck - keep us posted, and try to be patient with the folks who don't read back to the beginning of the thread.

Well, the best I can do in order to help you is to offer you a copy of the wiring diagram for the 2013 model. If I were there I would be glad to help you figure out the problem.